XC70 - Daughter's First Car

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Sep 19, 2011
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Danville, KY
Picked up this little beauty a few days ago for my daughter. It's a one owner trade in at the local Volvo Dealership. Married couple purchased it brand new in 2007 and recently traded it in for a new car. I was able to speak to them and also looked at the warranty book in the glove box. All scheduled service was stamped at the dealership. 2007 model with 136,000 miles......$7,700. Original window sticker is in the glovebox, $43,000.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gr0Hkr...kF=w814-h610-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KfDdk5...ww=w814-h610-no
Very clean, well maintained car, and should be safe transportation for a new driver. Timing belt done last year.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JAZeiM...hX=w814-h610-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0nVPGQ...mS=w814-h610-no
Leather seats in great shape as well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/movdy7...aE=w814-h610-no
Brand new set of BFGoodrich Advantage TA tires.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P2Bs9i...SY=w814-h610-no
Been doing a lot of research on things to look for on this model. I'm going to check the PCV system. Also, looking in the oil fill cap, seeing some varnish. Looking at maintenance records, oil used was Castrol Semi Syn 5w30 at 7,500 mi intervals. I want to use a full syn oil to clean it up a bit.....
M1 5w30 or 0w40 or PU.
It has the 2.5t.....low pressure turbo.
Also, want to do a drain and fill on the transmission.
Anyone here have this model? What oil are you using?
 
Our company s60 with the 2.5t has 200k and as long as I can remember we use m1 0w40 . Sees all short driving.

Cant speak for the trans however
 
Great car. Particularly for a kid.

Join this forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?6-2001-2007-XC70-(V70XC) The site: http://www.volvoxc.com/ has a resources section with a ton of DIY how to guides. The 2002-2007 XC forum is very active and has some very knowledgeable folks posting there. It's a great resource.

Start reading this blog: http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/ While Howard's car was older than yours, it had similar miles when the typical Volvo stuff began.

So, I wouldn't even check the PCV, I would simply replace it. I'll bet folding money that yours is plugged or close to it with that oil on that OCI in that engine. Get a kit like this one: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4991/1150...urbo-5-cylinder as old parts get brittle and break. Easier to do it all at once and replace all the parts. Figure 6 hours if this is your first PCV system. Be certain to clean the PCV passages from block to crankcase as the sludge builds up in there as well.

Check (and likely replace) the engine mounts. The passenger side mount (under the crank pulley) generally lasts 50,000 - 80,000 miles and when it fails, will result in a bit more vibration felt throughout the car. Upper engine mount (on the cross bar) has a similar life. So does the transmission torque mount. The two remaining mounts last longer, but at your car's age, I would anticipate needing them too. Don't use cheap mounts, they fail very, very quickly... Use OE or Lemforder.

Check the front control arm bushings. They seem to last about 80,000 miles and then they tear, leading to excess tire wear and sloppy handling. Easiest to replace the entire LCA if they're torn. Do the balljoints while the LCA is off.

Check your Haldex fluid and filter. With those miles, you should change them.

D&F on the transmission is a good idea. Oil sealing ring on the transmission is the same as on the oil drain plug. Get them in bulk...from IPD, the dealer wants a crazy price. Consider adding a transmission cooler. Consider adding a magnefine filter in the fluid return line from the radiator cooler. That's the setup on my wife's XC. On my V70, I went a bit more sophisticated: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

D&F this often until the fluid looks good. Personally, I would just do a cooler line fluid exchange. Takes 14 QTs, IPD provides a nice kit with o-rings and retaining clip.

Buy a dedicated tool for the oil filter housing. I've seen them torn up from Channel Locks...IPD sells a proprietary one that works great. Assenmacher makes a cheaper one.

For oil selection, it's hard to beat the Mobil 1 0W40. Great oil, great price. Here's my UOA for a similar engine: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2281431

Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 showed great results in a UOA on my wife's 2002 XC: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2288158

Wife's XC has 202,000 on it now. Runs great. Drives like new. Looks like new. Take car of this car and your daughter will be well served for a long time to come. They're very durable, and once you sort through the few Volvo oddities/failures, they're great cars to own.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Can't see the photos (they're probably set to private), but congrats nonetheless!


Same here , just puts up a minus sign.
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Great car. Particularly for a kid.

Join this forum: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?6-2001-2007-XC70-(V70XC) The site: http://www.volvoxc.com/ has a resources section with a ton of DIY how to guides. The 2002-2007 XC forum is very active and has some very knowledgeable folks posting there. It's a great resource.

Start reading this blog: http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/ While Howard's car was older than yours, it had similar miles when the typical Volvo stuff began.

So, I wouldn't even check the PCV, I would simply replace it. I'll bet folding money that yours is plugged or close to it with that oil on that OCI in that engine. Get a kit like this one: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4991/1150...urbo-5-cylinder as old parts get brittle and break. Easier to do it all at once and replace all the parts. Figure 6 hours if this is your first PCV system. Be certain to clean the PCV passages from block to crankcase as the sludge builds up in there as well.

Check (and likely replace) the engine mounts. The passenger side mount (under the crank pulley) generally lasts 50,000 - 80,000 miles and when it fails, will result in a bit more vibration felt throughout the car. Upper engine mount (on the cross bar) has a similar life. So does the transmission torque mount. The two remaining mounts last longer, but at your car's age, I would anticipate needing them too. Don't use cheap mounts, they fail very, very quickly... Use OE or Lemforder.

Check the front control arm bushings. They seem to last about 80,000 miles and then they tear, leading to excess tire wear and sloppy handling. Easiest to replace the entire LCA if they're torn. Do the balljoints while the LCA is off.

Check your Haldex fluid and filter. With those miles, you should change them.

D&F on the transmission is a good idea. Oil sealing ring on the transmission is the same as on the oil drain plug. Get them in bulk...from IPD, the dealer wants a crazy price. Consider adding a transmission cooler. Consider adding a magnefine filter in the fluid return line from the radiator cooler. That's the setup on my wife's XC. On my V70, I went a bit more sophisticated: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

D&F this often until the fluid looks good. Personally, I would just do a cooler line fluid exchange. Takes 14 QTs, IPD provides a nice kit with o-rings and retaining clip.

Buy a dedicated tool for the oil filter housing. I've seen them torn up from Channel Locks...IPD sells a proprietary one that works great. Assenmacher makes a cheaper one.

For oil selection, it's hard to beat the Mobil 1 0W40. Great oil, great price. Here's my UOA for a similar engine: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2281431

Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 showed great results in a UOA on my wife's 2002 XC: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2288158

Wife's XC has 202,000 on it now. Runs great. Drives like new. Looks like new. Take car of this car and your daughter will be well served for a long time to come. They're very durable, and once you sort through the few Volvo oddities/failures, they're great cars to own.


Thanks for all the info on resources!
 
Originally Posted By: Mark_Walk
Owners manual says 91 octane is best and 87 is minimum......we filled it with 89 mid grade. Does it really matter?


Opinions on this vary. The car has good anti-knock sensors and engine management. It will run fine on the 87. My wife runs hers on 87 without adverse effects. You'll notice a slight power drop as the ECU pulls back the timing a bit. Slight MPG drop as well...but from a cost/mile perspective, premium really isn't worth it...

The car looks great, by the way. The interior, in particular, looks brand new. That's really nice looking.

I'm sure you'll both enjoy it. You more for the peace of mind that she's driving a genuinely safe car that also happens to be very comfortable and practical.

Cheers,
Astro
 
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Astro...I noticed you are running 40wt oil. Does that affect fuel economy vs running 30wt that is spec'd in the owners manual? It does say go to either 0w40 or 10w30 if the temp is over 86F.
 
I had read some info earlier in the week about how sensitive the PCV systems are in these cars and, Astro, you have mentioned it too. So, out of curiosity, I was looking around under the hood with a flashlight. The oil recovery box under the intake is immaculately clean on the outside. No gunk or even dust or dirt. Obviously this means nothing concerning the inside of the system...just an observation. The hoses to this box are also in "like new" condition. I can also see the outer edges of the intake gasket and it appears new looking. This is wishful thinking on my part but I'm going to contact the dealership and have them print off a report showing all service work done to this car. Knowing the timing belt was done last year I'm hoping they went ahead and did the PCV system at the same time. Definitely will be running full synthetic on the next change.
 
Originally Posted By: Mark_Walk
Astro...I noticed you are running 40wt oil. Does that affect fuel economy vs running 30wt that is spec'd in the owners manual? It does say go to either 0w40 or 10w30 if the temp is over 86F.


The owners manual specs 5w30, but then goes on to say:

Oil viscosity (stable ambient temperatures)
Operation in hot climates
When temperatures exceed 86° F (30° C) in your area, Volvo recommends, for the protection of your engine, that you use a heavier weight oil, such as such as SAE 5W- 40 or 0W-40. See the viscosity chart.

Extreme engine operation
Synthetic oils meeting SAE 0W-30 or 0W-40 and complying with oil quality requirements are recommended for driving in areas of sustained temperature extremes (hot or cold), when towing a trailer over long distances, and for prolonged driving in mountainous areas.

See page 190 here: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2007/2007_XC70/07xc70_09.htm#pg190

So, despite the dealer use of Castrol bulk 5w30 semisynthetic, Volvo actually recommends a better oil for most operating conditions (unless you drive in temperate climates only, where it doesn't get too cold, or exceed 86F, and you don't drive in mountains, tow, or use the engine hard).

I've run 5w30 in the XC a few times, Pennzoil Ultra Euro that I got on clearance, and the only thing I notice is slightly higher oil consumption. No appreciable change in MPG. Now, I try to run the 5w30 only in the winter, and the XC has the last of my bargain ($2/QT on clearance) stash of Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 Euro in it right now.

The 0w40 covers all use cases, and at $26 for 5QTS, is a bargain. I've already linked my UOAs for this car, and the oil does very well. I would keep it simple and run the Mobil 1 0W40.

Now, if you've got a stash of good synthetic 5W30 that you want to use, I'm certain it would be fine. It's better than what the dealer put in. Just keep an eye on the oil level.
 
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