2005 2.4l Accord - consuming oil

[Finz]

Well, I guess it has finally happened... Car is consuming oil at 189,000 miles

Had this car since new and have used M1 0-20 with few exceptions for the last 175,000 miles with OCIs at roughly 5,000 miles.

At around 175,000, I noticed slight oil loss and switched to MaxLife HM. Last oil change was a few weeks ago and I'm in for about 1,000 and just added a quart. No leaks evident. Nor any smoke from exhaust to speak of...

However, unlike the normal short-tripping this car does, since the last oil change, I've had a few 200 mile highway trips with speeds in the 70 mph neighborhood. This is the bulk of the 1,000 miles put on the car since last oil change

Coincidentally, I replaced the PCV valve last oil change as well (2nd replacement) which I picked up from Rock Auto.

I suppose I have to break out some tools but it has been quite some time since I've researched anything like this and I've never opened up an engine before outside of valve cover gaskets or valve adjustment

My question: What is my plan of attack here and is it a bear of a job? Quick look on the web and I came across an Eric The Car Guy video in which he speaks of replacing valve seals and such

Could I be lucky and might there be an easy fix? I tend to over-think things like this and gravitate toward the most arduous repairs first

So bummed - this car has been fantastic from a maintenance perspective. Over 11 years So I suppose I don't have a lot to complain about

Any help or guidance will be greatly appreciated...

Thank you

 

[nicholas]

Do a compression check - that should be a good indicator.

If all your psi's check out - then it is most likely your valve gaskets/seats.

Your rings might be a little stuck - - - I have had good luck with BG EPR - on a oil drinking audi where the rings were stuck up really badly. The EPR reduced the consumption to almost nothing.

Good luck.

 

[Finz]

Thanks Nicholas... That I can do. . Should I anticipate performing a wet and dry test...?

 

[buster]

Quote:
However, unlike the normal short-tripping this car does, since the last oil change, I've had a few 200 mile highway trips with speeds in the 70 mph neighborhood. This is the bulk of the 1,000 miles put on the car since last oil change


I had the same car. It consumed 1/2 qt per 4-5k miles since new. Sold it with 180k miles on it.

I think the change in driving is likely why it's spiked. Could be the rings are wearing too. I'd go up a grade and try a 10w30. Start with that and see what happens.

 

[spavel6]

I would be leery of just replacing valve seals without additional head work. I've always been told that if valve seals are worn, it means that the clearances in the guides are too high, and new seals would get destroyed quickly without installing new guides, etc..

What made you switch to HM oil? Would it makes sense to go back to the M1 and see if the usage drops down to a lower level?

 

[NormanBuntz]

Couldn't it be that some of your one quart usage in 1,000 miles is due to switching from M1 to Maxlife? I wouldn't fret yet.

 

[Finz]

Good comments all... Thank you

Norman... I switched to HM oil 15k miles ago... This is the 3rd fill with this oil. I fell victim to the marketing of HM oils and also I did note some consumption between OCIs but nothing approaching what I just experienced

I would have guessed that 15k miles over 3 OCIs would have been enough to "teach" my car of this new oil BUT I'm certainly no expert ... A few more miles could be needed?

Buster: that's something.., your car consuming oil like that... I hadnt't heard of that with these engines before but, again, I'm about as far from an expert on this stuff as you can get

I know consuming oil on an older car is just a fact of life but it's a fairly new development that I would like to nip in bud sooner rather than later

Compression test might yield some answers...

Spavel... Seal replacement with no further work - that's a good point which I'll keep in mind

Buster... Going up a grade, especially with water months around the corner, would make a difference I'm sure but as my driving should return to the more normal short-tripping, you raise a good point that the higher rpm/ highway diving was the likely culprit

... So, is it safe to assume , regardless of driving changes, that there is no smoking gun as to why or where this oil is going? Could be any number of things...?

 

[slug_bug]

Going from slight oil loss to a quart in 1000 miles seems like too drastic a change to be attributed to wear. Perhaps your new PCV valve is defective. Maybe an OEM PCV valve would be a thing to try first?

 

[Finz]

I'm with you on that Slug..., Getting one today. That would be a pleasant surprise... Surprise being the key word

 

[SLCraig]

I don't think that's out of the realm of normal for a car at that mileage, especially a K series. Also I know for my oil consuming car, it is noticeably worse on highway trips as opposed to when the car is used more in town.

 

[Vikas]

Did you purchase OEM PCV valve from Rock Auto? I would certainly start with ruling out entire PCV system first.

 

[CT8]

Switch to a 5W-30 oil and see what happens to the oil consumption.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: nicholas
Do a compression check - that should be a good indicator.

If all your psi's check out - then it is most likely your valve gaskets/seats.

Your rings might be a little stuck - - - I have had good luck with BG EPR - on a oil drinking audi where the rings were stuck up really badly. The EPR reduced the consumption to almost nothin
Good luck.
Back in the early 1980s at the shop I worked at many Chevrolet pick ups would come in with oil consumption complaints and have the compression well with in specs and they ran fine. Upon tear down and inspection all looked good yet there were sticky rings. That was due to the 10W-40 oils used at the time.

 

[Finz]

I purchased the Beck Arnley from rock auto. P/N: 045-0346 which, it seems, IS the OEM....?

 

[Vikas]

I would just spend $10 or $15 on OEM PCV valve from the local unfriendly Honda dealer. If the valve you got was not made of hefty metal or was made in China, it most likely is NOT OEM. Also check the associated tubing for clogs.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz
Couldn't it be that some of your one quart usage in 1,000 miles is due to switching from M1 to Maxlife? I wouldn't fret yet.

+1

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: CT8
Switch to a 5W-30 oil and see what happens to the oil consumption.

+1

 

[SatinSilver]

I started doing a lot of hwy driving in the 99 Accord 4cyl and noticed I was a quart low when the car had 135k miles on it. I bought it new. Topped off with a quart of Mobil 5000 and a few weeks later after a fair amount of highway driving I was down another quart.

This time I topped off with Valvoline Maxlife changed out the pcv valve with an oem unit and no more measurable consumption. I sold it with 170k miles and it ran like a top.

It seems like Pennzoil High Mileage and Maxlife make the most difference in solving consumption issues in my reading on here.

The internal spring on the oem pcv valve usually breaks around 60k miles. With an aftermarket unit who knows when that spring might break. I'm speculating the spring on some of those are a thinner gauge metal and may break sooner.

 

[Finz]

Thanks again for the comments...

I was able to determine the new PCV is an OEM so I'll try to remain calm and see how the next 500 or 1,000 miles go under usual driving conditions.

I will do a compression test... Certainly won't hurt

 

[Lubener]

You have a high mileage, eleven year old car. Just keep the level topped off. Checking the PCV operation is worth a check. Otherwise, you can tear down the engine with at a minimum, replace valve seals. Valve guides or rings at the extreme. I would keep it topped off. You can buy a lot of make up oil before you get to paying someone just to replace valve seals. As long as you don't start fouling plugs, keep it topped off with low cost oil.