Looks like I got a '08 TOYOTA OIL BURNER! (pics)

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SumpChump

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After getting my new '13 Corolla totaled with 12k miles on it, in the dead of winter at -10 to -20F... I got to go used car shopping with about $4,000.

I found myself a nice 2008 Scion xB with 130k and the 2.4L 2AZ-FE, "potential oil burner" reknown motor. I love the vehicle, being a tall guy... it is great. It has records of oil changes every 3k miles and other maintenance, new tires, etc. She burns no blue smoke at startup or deceleration or ever. Looks like it is just the control rings.

I have had it for a month or two now and have changed the filters, done a few "clean-up" very short oil changes, etc.

I decided to see if she is really an oil burner. I was 99% sure she was. I drive about 10 miles a day, so frankly the somitch could burn a quart every 100 miles and I'd be good for 10days at a time.

Did an oil change with Castol semi-syn High mileage 5W-20. And here's the results 100 miles in to it.

According to my measurements she is at a pace to burn 1 quart every 675miles. and that doesn't include a lot of highway high revving miles, OUCH!!

Now this is just predictive , applying what has been eaten in the first 100 miles. We'll see how it turns out over ACTUAL 675 miles.

SO in anticipation I call the dealer and ask the protocol. It's a extended "good faith" coverage item done by Toyota So I have unitl the 10 year or 150k mile mark.

He says they seal her up for about 1k miles (unless the customer KNOWS she'd fail dry before then) and then check it after the 1k miles. Then you get free pistons and rings. ONLY .... NO water pump, no nothing else. AND if they discover something else.... they don't put her back together until you pay.

Service manager says with this warranty work in particular he "always offers" the low-low price of $900 dollars the additional "top end" service including water pump, serpentine and valve seals. He says valve seals are normally a 16 HOUR job. so at $900, it is a great savings price. I have no clue if that is a good price but for a fourth of the cost of the car maybe I'd just splurge on having them do the waterpump and tensioner as serp to be safe.

I asked... "what if something cracks whan it is plucked out... like a thermostat neck or radiator neck, old plastic something. He says , "YOU pay, it is not covered"

SO that's all potentially in the future. LOL

Here's the data.
 
Exciting news! Looking forward to many entertaining posts.
57.gif
 
So they will do the bottom end but you can eat the top end cost. A hilarious go eat crow if i've ever heard one.
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
So they will do the bottom end but you can eat the top end cost. A hilarious go eat crow if i've ever heard one.


Yep. Only the problem parts (rings and pistons) are replaced.

Maybe, as has happened to others. I should grenade it and then they can pick up the whole cost. It has already been noted in the past that she eats oil and therenwas "some concern" but at that time it didn't meet the consumption threshold. INdeed, maybe its best to show them that it "meets" the threshold by having an oil change done there and 3k later out of the 5k oil change, she blows.

Just dreaming.
 
Try the multitude of procedures people do to help with the issue. Do a quick flush with BG Quick Clean and do a piston soak the same day, let it sit overnight, then drain the oil. Then consistently use Rislone or a similar engine oil additive that cleans deposits. That routine keeps the consumption down on my Corolla.

If they don't use redesigned rings or drill out the drainback holes, it will be back to consuming oil quickly.
 
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You may be better off adding oil than fooling with a disinterested stealership. At least the engine is running good and trouble free right now.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
You may be better off adding oil than fooling with a disinterested stealership. At least the engine is running good and trouble free right now.


Always a valid point.

I'd suppose... if they do the work there is likely little or no "warranty" on the work and even then the owner would have the burden of proof. Never though of that. She gets put back together... then a week later with 70 miles on the car after repair...blows an unreplaced 60k mile radiator hose or throws a timing chain... I'd likely be told "you're covering the $ buddy".
 
Originally Posted By: Stewie
Pics of the car
laugh.gif



I think I paid $4,300-$4,400 if I recall. 1 owner from new, paperwork from new. Here she is after he first wash and wax (nice spring day the day before) His wife drove it, mostly highway. So he put money into regular upkeep. They found out the xB only went to 2015 so they wanted to get the "last one" she could get, to enjoy the body style/familiarity as long as she could. Dealer lowballed them at trade in assessment on this '08.





 
Looks like a lot of car for only $4000 or so. I'd let the dealer do their thing if they have a relatively good reputation. The Toyota dealer here says the same thing, if it's component that's not covered under warranty I'm on the hook. Of course this is on well know issues like you have and I've never been dinged for the bill. Keep dealing with the serv mgr as much as possible.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
The Toyota dealer here says the same thing, if it's component that's not covered under warranty I'm on the hook.


Yep, that's the cringer. Such as if they find a vvti gear that doesn't "look good". Or they determine X-Y-Z to be out of spec with the rods at the top pins.

All in all she looks and drives good. Might need motor mounts in a little while. Smooth enough running and no slam-banging on shifts, but has more vibration transferred to cabin in reverse at idle than my 4cyl 2AR-FE '13 Camry for sure... the Camry has a different upper MotorMount and about 100k les miles though. No visible cracks in the MMounts though.
 
Ok so you know the burn rate. It's a nice vehicle and you don't have a ton of money into it. You could try the non mechanical remedies and it will eventually burn oil again.
I would buy oil on sale, and add oil as needed and change it at 5-6k. you are getting an oil pan flush every 4- 5k anyway With top ups.

As long as you remember to ad a quart of oil every 600-1000 miles this will go for a long time. The only time this should fail is if you have a driver who never checks the oil and let's it run beyond low.
 
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this extrapolation attempt is very imprecise. Let it run for 200, 300, 500, 1000 miles; check the oil regularly and let it go from "max" to "min". Then you'll have better idea how much it really consumes.
 
The more I think about this you probably should continue with the dealer's offer to redo the bottom end. There is a good chance they will screw something up somewhere on the upper end, then its on them to fix whatever it is. Good luck.
 
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