Why grease must separate(bleed)

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Silverado,
it's mostly an article about industrial lubrication.

When you grease electric motors, if you fill the cavity with grease, it will run hot...often 15-20C+

When rebuilt, we pack them about half full, and replace only a certain number of pumps weekly, monthly, or whatever the SKF manual specs. Temps will rise for a little while.

Operators monitoring their panels can identify if a greaser has been overzealous by the sustained high temperatures following greasing.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Shannow
I think that this is in response to the comment in another thread that Mobil 1 bleeds.
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.
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Just doesn't need a tenuous link to defend against a strawman argument.


And your point is....


From the other thread...

Originally Posted By: tig1
I have used M1 grease for about 20 years with good results in my trailer and truck bearings. Hubs stay cool and no failures.


Originally Posted By: KingCake
Mobil 1 red is junk. It separates horribly.

Ford moly grease or jet lube.


Then a thread titled
Why grease must separate(bleed)

Which links to an article that is actually titled...

Storing Grease to Avoid Bleed and Separation


which is presented as an article explaining grease function, and

Originally Posted By: tig1
Also it explains how to store grease in a gun to prevent grease bleeding.


Like I said, the fact that it has to release oil doesn't justify a red pool on the shelf...

And to demonstrate that I'm not biased against M!, I was instrumental in changing the plant over to SHC100 and SHC220...Mobil 1 grease is SHC220 in a different package.
 
There seems to be a communication problem at times.
 
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Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Blame the equator


I don't care who you are, that's funny!! LOL!
 
Originally Posted By: njohnson
The article talks about overgreasing bearings, are they referring to repackable roller bearings? Or are they talking about sealed bearing assembly, like Buddy bearing style?

I'm asking because I repacked the front wheel bearings on our SUV, I don't have a lot of experience with repacking bearings. I don't think I would know what overgreasing would look like.
I don't want problems down the road because I did it wrong.

Regreasing refers to the amount of grease in the sealed bearing cavity. The cavity should have no more than 30% of it filled, or the bearing will overheat in service. Some manufacturers, such as Mercedes, specify the amount of grease to put in a bearing. Priority starts by packing the rollers and cage full of grease, then buttering the raceways, then buttering the sides of the assembly. The remainder is used to butter the cavity surfaces and packed in the cap.
 
Considering over greasing, what is the proper way to grease bearings on a trailer with the ability to periodically pump grease through the bearings with a zerk fitting provided? Maybe it shouldn't be used? But then why did they axle manufacture provide it?
 
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Unless you are leaking grease through the inboard seal, no grease should be needed. I hand packed the bearings on my trailer 6 years ago when it was new and haven't needed to re-pact since.
 
how about a boat trailer?

M1 has awful separation. giant puddles. It could be the best grease in the world and I wouldn't use it just from being so messy.. this was stored in the basement correctly with no pressure on it.
 
M1 is what I use with great results. Your experience is just opposite from mine. Yes, I did get some separation(Better greases do that)until I learned to take the pressure off the gun.

What about a boat trailer?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
M1 is what I use with great results. Your experience is just opposite from mine. Yes, I did get some separation(Better greases do that)until I learned to take the pressure off the gun.

What about a boat trailer?


Again,
what's your proof of that...the premise that better greases leave their oil behind.

Back to my original critiscism of that being the misrepresentation of the original article, which was about how to reduce bleeding, which had a statement about how greases work.

Was not an article about "red puddles" make the grease better than ones that don't leave red puddles.
 
"Dynamic bleed is the actual controlled release of the base oils and additives during use due to temperature or mechanical stresses. It is important for the grease used to have a controlled rate of bleeding in order for it to do it's job properly".

I also had an article from XM on grease separation which stated that the better quality grease will separate some for better lubrication. Sorry, but I can't find that write up now.
 
Yes, grease needs to release oils in service to fucntion.

THAT doesn't justify your assertion that the red puddle defines a good grease, and that good greases must leave a puddle.

It's a logical flaw, that you are using to try to defend the fact that you've used M1 in everything forever, never had a problem, and thus it's obviously the best.

It's a great grease, as I said, I was the leader in converting the electric motors in two power stations to SHC220 (which IS M1 grease), and a few more to SHC 100 (lower basestock viscosity) for hogher speed applications.

But again, the article is how to stop bleeding in storage, not a justification of the red puddle.

Please explain how a grease whose oil is left on the shelf and doesn't make it to the bearing is superior to one in which the oil actually gets where it's supposed to go.
 
Link to Google Book Document...Lubrication Fundamentals second edition

grease%20separation.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Yes, grease needs to release oils in service to fucntion.

THAT doesn't justify your assertion that the red puddle defines a good grease, and that good greases must leave a puddle.

It's a logical flaw, that you are using to try to defend the fact that you've used M1 in everything forever, never had a problem, and thus it's obviously the best.

It's a great grease, as I said, I was the leader in converting the electric motors in two power stations to SHC220 (which IS M1 grease), and a few more to SHC 100 (lower basestock viscosity) for hogher speed applications.

But again, the article is how to stop bleeding in storage, not a justification of the red puddle.

Please explain how a grease whose oil is left on the shelf and doesn't make it to the bearing is superior to one in which the oil actually gets where it's supposed to go.


I did read the article and am aware the article focuses on grease bleeding(separation) and ways to store it. If you lived here in the states I would like to have this discussion on the phone with you and perhaps you would stop the mind reading as to my intents.

Your "logical flaw" comment above was needless and insulting at best. I posted this article to show grease will separate in storage, but there are ways to prevent that from happening. My intention was to help those that have that problem(and some posted they do and seemed to appreciate the aricle) but in your arrogance you simply can't resist the misleading insults to undermined my intentions.
I to have actually packed many large bearings with M1 grease as required by the customer. Mostly steel plants where the equipment is subjected to high temps. Big deal.

It must be the Equator!!
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
M1 is what I use with great results. Your experience is just opposite from mine. Yes, I did get some separation(Better greases do that)until I learned to take the pressure off the gun.

What about a boat trailer?
Amsoil Racing Grease must be some top of the line grease. I tossed a couple tubes and went back to cheap grease to avoid the mess.
 
That's part of the reason those little shortie grease guns make an attempt on the grease market every decade or so. Can be hard to find shortie cartridges. The idea is sound/
 
Well, I wonder how long the M-1 synthetic was on the shelf before I purchased it. When I opened the tube to install in my gun, about 10 to 20% of the product poured out on my clothes and shoes. I tossed it and used Valvoline Durablend since. It separates in storage a little, but does not give up all of its good stuff before use. One year shelf life? I need to buy less at any one time. Is there a date code on the packages, the tubes at the auto parts store are often dusty, like vintage wine bottles.

prs
 
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