270,000 mile Ford Ranger tear down M1 10w30

[cpsychoholic]

Why is M1 a waste of money as you say? You do 5K OCIs with dino. I did 10K OCIs with M1 10-30 in my 3.0 Ranger with 354K. [/quote]



I can safely bet I spent a helluva lot less on oil changes in 300,000 miles than you did. Thats why M1 is a waste of money. How much oil do you add in those 10k oci's? I dont add any between changes. Simple math.
I also got a 98 mustang with a 3.8 my wife drives everyday and it has over 407,000 miles. Same cheap [censored] oil and filters every 5k oci. No leaks or oil burning on it either.
People spend money on M1 or any other syn oil for many reasons. But thinking you cant get long life out of dyno oil for less money is just plain silly.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: cpsychoholic
Why is M1 a waste of money as you say? You do 5K OCIs with dino. I did 10K OCIs with M1 10-30 in my 3.0 Ranger with 354K.




I can safely bet I spent a helluva lot less on oil changes in 300,000 miles than you did. Thats why M1 is a waste of money. How much oil do you add in those 10k oci's? I dont add any between changes. Simple math.
I also got a 98 mustang with a 3.8 my wife drives everyday and it has over 407,000 miles. Same cheap [censored] oil and filters every 5k oci. No leaks or oil burning on it either.
People spend money on M1 or any other syn oil for many reasons. But thinking you cant get long life out of dyno oil for less money is just plain silly.
[/quote]

You used twice the oil, twice the filters, and twice the work of changing oil and gained nothing more for your labor. Using your 300K number, you did 60 oil changes, I did 30. So cost is a non factor. Yes, dino will perform well if you change often(who said dino lubed engines can't last long), but a quality synthetic gives a higher level of protection and ease of starting that dino struggles with. Like extreme cold temps.

 

[WiskyBadger]

People arguing about what oil got them to 300k and Im over here wishing the bodies and frames on my vehicles had a chance at making that.

 

[B320i]

Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
People arguing about what oil got them to 300k and Im over here wishing the bodies and frames on my vehicles had a chance at making that.

Maybe its better that way...

Imagine if there was a "Bob is the Body Guy..."

Trending Threads:
"Should I use Synthetic or Mineral Bodywork?"
"3K/3Month Respray MYTH!"
"Thick vs. Thin Paint"
"I used Mineral Paint for 300K! It still runs fine!"

 

[cpsychoholic]

So you ask me how M1 is a waste of money. I answer your question with fact and I ask you how much oil you add between changes. You then say cost is a non factor and didn't answer my question. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I'm done.

 

[Gasbuggy]

Originally Posted By: cpsychoholic


I can safely bet I spent a helluva lot less on oil changes in 300,000 miles than you did. Thats why M1 is a waste of money. How much oil do you add in those 10k oci's? I dont add any between changes. Simple math.
I also got a 98 mustang with a 3.8 my wife drives everyday and it has over 407,000 miles. Same cheap [censored] oil and filters every 5k oci. No leaks or oil burning on it either.
People spend money on M1 or any other syn oil for many reasons. But thinking you cant get long life out of dyno oil for less money is just plain silly.



The reality is you spent 1/2 as much to do a change twice as often. Supertech is usually about $12.77, Mobil is $26? Maybe you spent more depending on filters, trips to dispose of waste oil. But the one thing I know you wasted more of was time, and time is money.

And furthermore why be a rude to this guy posting about his truck? Maybe switch to synthetic and spend the time saved reading about how to not be a **** head.

 

[perryg114]

What is your OCI with cheap dino oil? I run 10k between changes with M1 10W30. I have 4 vehicles and I don't have time to change oil at 5k. I don't get a year out of an oil change as it is. So from a time saving standpoint M1 is a winner.

By the way, we ran Shell 4 ball wear scar tests on synthetics here at NASA and they were much better than mineral oils. I am sure mineral oils have gotten better since then but the cost difference is a wash with mineral oils running at 5k OCI's. The time I save is worth it. You also spend time taking the used oil to the parts store or wherever to get rid of the stuff.

Let's stop taking about oil.

Perry

 

[perryg114]

The head is fine other than some seat work. Like I said before, finding a good machine shop is hard. They would want to do $300-$400 work on that head. It really just needs the exhaust seats cut and no guide work. Of course the valve stems will have to be trimmed and the springs shimmed. The valve seals were still soft and pliable which was surprising. I am assuming they were Viton.

Perry

 

[perryg114]

Pulled the block today. Not really far into it but crank looks good. Pulled the bad piston and the top ring was pinched in about 3 places and I had to break it to get it out. I put the second ring in the cylinder and measured .025" end gap which seems pretty good to me. I will have to look up what new is supposed to be. There was some wear on the top rod bearing but I need to pull them all and see if this damaged piston bearing is worse than the others.

Perry

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: cpsychoholic
M1 is a waste of money. My 03 ranger with the duratec 2.3 still runs perfect.Engine has never been opened up. Doesn't burn or leak any oil. Turned 312,000 miles today. Supertech oil and supertech filters every 5,000 miles all its life until the past 3 years it started getting $1 a quart autozone clearance oil and purolator classic filters. Never spent over $10 dollars on any oil change for this truck including filter. Just the cheapest four quarts of oil and a cheap filter. Still drive it 80 miles daily and would drive it anywhere without hesitation. Any sn oil these days will do just as good with regular oci's.



I have a new Duratech 2.5 in my 16' Escape that I would love to get 300K out of....did you use 5w20 exclusively?

 

[ChadHargis]

Originally Posted By: pbm
I have a new Duratech 2.5 in my 16' Escape that I would love to get 300K out of....did you use 5w20 exclusively?


Same here!

With today's cars, it's the bodies that fall apart before the powertrain.

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: perryg114
Pulled the block today. Not really far into it but crank looks good. Pulled the bad piston and the top ring was pinched in about 3 places and I had to break it to get it out. I put the second ring in the cylinder and measured .025" end gap which seems pretty good to me. I will have to look up what new is supposed to be. There was some wear on the top rod bearing but I need to pull them all and see if this damaged piston bearing is worse than the others.

Perry


Cool, I'd be looking for a good used piston, ball hone it, slap some rings and bearings in there and go back to work.

I'd still suggest a premium 4 or 5 angle valve job as that helps with low lift flow. And I'd likely cut 0.020 off the head surface to bump the CR a bit

But it really looks like it's nicely savable, and great little engine

I like the clean. I'll guarantee that none of mine with that many miles is that clean. But I don't expect that clean. Miles and combustion by-products are going to create varnish. Maybe with an aggressive cleaning oil from the get go... But my cars and trucks are all used when they come in with who knows what maintenance. They have a little sludge and golden varnish when you pull the VCs. Yours looks spotless