Ball Joint /Control arm question

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97-03 F150. My Upper and lower ball joints are needing replaced along with the inner and outer tie-rods. I looked at the replacement Ball Joints and there are many that say that they will not fit the oem control arms on the vehicle. Do you have to replace the control arms as well for them to fit? Is the labor cost much different if you were going to have the ball joints done anyway?
 
Replace the control arms. The new ones come with the ball joint and 2 bushing installed.

Try YouTube for one of the many hands on tutorials.
 
The upper ones are only sold with a complete arm from Ford. There are aftermarket arms that have serviceable ball joints which is what you are finding when you look up ball joints.
 
While replacing the lower ball joints and upper control arms, replace the idler arm and pitman arm while you have all this apart. Carefully inspect the tie rods for wear. If the current control arms are still factory, you'll also need the new lower control arm bolts to have the necessary alignment performed.
Do NOT put cheap replacement parts on your vehicle or you will be doing this all over again in a few years.
 
Last edited:
You CAN replace ball joints without the a arm. Ford truck enthusiasts has several articles.
Some bad info in this thread.
 
Originally Posted By: rsylvstr
You CAN replace ball joints without the a arm. Ford truck enthusiasts has several articles.
Some bad info in this thread.


Lower yes, we do them all the time. Upper from Ford are only with the arms.
 
Originally Posted By: rsylvstr
You CAN replace ball joints without the a arm. Ford truck enthusiasts has several articles.
Some bad info in this thread.


Such as?
As already posted, the lower control arms have replaceable ball joints. The factory upper control arms get replaced as a complete unit, but some aftermarket upper control arms have replaceable ball joints. For example, Rock Auto shows that Quick Steer has a replaceable ball joint for the upper control arm, but they clearly state it will not fit a factory upper control arm. I'd recommend replacing it with the same type as what came from the factory. I'd feel sorry for some poor parts man who claims there is no replaceable upper ball joint and gets reamed by a customer who claims that there is....and they would both be right.
 
I usually use the Motorcraft parts. I saw some Moog parts that were mid range on the price category. If the Moog are not as sturdy, I can get the oem type parts.
 
Originally Posted By: oilstudent24
I usually use the Motorcraft parts. I saw some Moog parts that were mid range on the price category. If the Moog are not as sturdy, I can get the oem type parts.


Moog Problem-Solvers are okay. They usually have a grease zerk, so if you don't want to ever grease your replacement parts, buy another brand. The Moog "R" series is the economy line that Moog uses to compete against all the other junk on the market. If you want a better part, use something other than their economy line.
Most Motorcraft replacement parts don't use a zerk, but some Motorcraft replacement parts can be purchased wither with or without a zerk.
 
yeah I didnt really consider the Moog Economy Line, but I want it done right the first time as well. BD Cardinal, What are the ford part #s that would work best for inner/outer tierods and upper control arms and lower ball joints? Do the bottom control arms have to be done as well? This is a 2WD Vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: oilstudent24
99 f150 4.6 2wd xlt


Ok I looked it up on RockAuto where I buy all my parts. You got some nice parts available for your truck on there. They got ACDelco, Motorcraft, and Moog. Any one of those would be excellent. They're saying the upper ball joint is not designed to fit the OE upper control arm -- and I don't know if that includes the new replacement Motorcraft arms or not. Personally, since the prices between new complete control arms and separate ball joints is about the same, I'd replace both sets of control arms. The brand I would choose is the top of the line Problem Solver series by Moog -- just my personal preference.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: oilstudent24
99 f150 4.6 2wd xlt


Ok I looked it up on RockAuto where I buy all my parts. You got some nice parts available for your truck on there. They got ACDelco, Motorcraft, and Moog. Any one of those would be excellent. They're saying the upper ball joint is not designed to fit the OE upper control arm -- and I don't know if that includes the new replacement Motorcraft arms or not. Personally, since the prices between new complete control arms and separate ball joints is about the same, I'd replace both sets of control arms. The brand I would choose is the top of the line Problem Solver series by Moog -- just my personal preference.


The replacement Motorcraft arms do not have ball joints that can be serviced separately from the complete assembly.

Also I forget if it was the F150 or Explorer/Ranger or both, but the passenger side arm eliminated the caster slider and you just use the eccentric bolts that hold the arm into the chassis to adjust camber and caster.
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: oilstudent24
I usually use the Motorcraft parts. I saw some Moog parts that were mid range on the price category. If the Moog are not as sturdy, I can get the oem type parts.


Moog Problem-Solvers are okay. They usually have a grease zerk, so if you don't want to ever grease your replacement parts, buy another brand. The Moog "R" series is the economy line that Moog uses to compete against all the other junk on the market. If you want a better part, use something other than their economy line.
Most Motorcraft replacement parts don't use a zerk, but some Motorcraft replacement parts can be purchased wither with or without a zerk.


Typically for front end parts I prefer the Moog Problem-Solvers option but there are other brands as well that are longer life than OEM. I did use the premium line from Mevotech (Canadian company) on the 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 that Rock Auto carried. They seem to have the same quality and zerks like the Moog Problem solver. The labor is the same where the replacement part cost $35 or $105. With zerks that get greased it should be a one time thing. At 110K miles the OEM ball joints had not failed but boots were missing or damaged so I did not want the son's life at risk over front end parts. In the real world the truck may be shot in another 15 years at 220K miles.
smile.gif
 
Thats good to know. There is a wealth of information on this site from its members. The suspension is original from 99, but doesnt see super hard use.
 
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