Original spark plugs removal in 15 yr old engine

[wing0]

2001 RX300 with 1mzfe engine, 137k miles(or 220k km)

Still the original spark plugs.

I have the new set on hand, but I'm concerned on how hard it'll be to loosen them.

Front 3 are easy with wide access.
Rear 3 are hard to get to, don't want to take the intake plenum off.
There is a way to go from either side, but nonetheless, will not be able to see the condition back there. Mostly done by hand/feel.

I know the longer they're left in, the harder it is to take out without issues. I also saw some suggest to spray pb blaster or penetrating oil. That's easy to do on the front, but not the rear though.

Should I attempt to change the front 3 first and see how they look?
If they're hard to get out, the rear is probably just as hard and leave the rear 3 to a shop or something?
Even though, I don't know if they will do it any better.

 

[Run]

The front three will be the hardest to remove. They have been subjected to the most hot/cold cycles and salty water. If the front three come out without much hassle then its a safe bet the rears will come out even easier. That is if you can find a good position to reach. My tip is keep a can of PB blaster on hand. Use lots on the front plugs.

 

[The motor guy]

They come out easier if the engine is hot. Obviously don't put new ones in until it cools down.

 

[SumpChump]

A drop of Kroil will do wonders.... waaaaay better than Blaster.

Worth ordering and waiting.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09...rd_i=B000F09CF4

 

[krismoriah72]

Ive done a few.. just remove the pcv and a few hoses and its not bad. 4" extension and 5" extension are what u will be using for the back ones.

Ive never used PB or anything like that because it makes the plug slippery when trying to fish out of the hole.

Be careful when installing the plugs...u have to do it by feel and make sure not to crossthread them. I usually use a 9 inch or so piece of hose that fits over the ceramic and thread it in by feel then pull it off once its in.

 

[mclasser]

When I changed the factory plugs on my Accord @166K, I sprayed some PB Blaster down into the wells the night before. They came out easy-peasy the next morning on a cold engine.

 

[wing0]

Originally Posted By: Run
The front three will be the hardest to remove. They have been subjected to the most hot/cold cycles and salty water. If the front three come out without much hassle then its a safe bet the rears will come out even easier. That is if you can find a good position to reach. My tip is keep a can of PB blaster on hand. Use lots on the front plugs.


In all my previous spark plug changes, I didn't have to spray PB in there. Is it safe to put a lot into the hole?
What if I need to put the coil back on to bring it somewhere?

Originally Posted By: SumpChump
A drop of Kroil will do wonders.... waaaaay better than Blaster.

Worth ordering and waiting.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09...rd_i=B000F09CF4



Hard to get it here.

Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Ive done a few.. just remove the pcv and a few hoses and its not bad. 4" extension and 5" extension are what u will be using for the back ones.

Ive never used PB or anything like that because it makes the plug slippery when trying to fish out of the hole.

Be careful when installing the plugs...u have to do it by feel and make sure not to crossthread them. I usually use a 9 inch or so piece of hose that fits over the ceramic and thread it in by feel then pull it off once its in.


Yes, I saw on youtube and other forums that, the two extensions are the method of getting to the rear plugs.
I do have the extensions ready.

I'll need to get some hose that fits.
I've only been changing spark plugs on 4cyl. This V6 is new to me and the trouble to get the rear plugs is irritating.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: SumpChump
A drop of Kroil will do wonders.... waaaaay better than Blaster.

Worth ordering and waiting.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09...rd_i=B000F09CF4



You got that right. I'd spray Kroil around the plugs the night before, then run the engine a few minutes the following morning and have it at.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
They come out easier if the engine is hot.

The plugs or the aluminum threads that are holding them in?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

NGK and Denso plugs, including ones installed from the factory, have a special coating that makes them easy to remove without having to apply antiseize. Therfore, you will have no trouble removing them

Use Denso or NGK iridium plugs, which will be just like the ones you're taking out, and they will last just as long. And don't use antiseize!

 

[wing0]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
NGK and Denso plugs, including ones installed from the factory, have a special coating that makes them easy to remove without having to apply antiseize. Therfore, you will have no trouble removing them

Use Denso or NGK iridium plugs, which will be just like the ones you're taking out, and they will last just as long. And don't use antiseize!


I got Denso longlife plugs.

I've been reading on this antiseize thing and sadly, I did put a tiny amount on the threads when I installed the other denso plugs into two cars.

One has copper plugs, so they will be taken out at around 30k. I don't foresee a problem there.
The other set are iridium, which I don't plan to take out again before getting rid of the car.

This time for sure, I won't put antiseize though. Lesson learned.

 

[eljefino]

I wouldn't spray PB.

Usually (with traditional plug wires) there's a mud of sand and stuff down around the base of the ceramic, by the gasket. Don't need to stir that up. If it's bad, pick it loose with a flat screwdriver and shop-vac it away. Then pull the plug gently out, using its threads to grab a slight amount of grit for removal.

If I've had stubborn plugs, it's because of carbon way on the inside. Most plugs have crush gaskets and you're expecting PB to wiggle around the crush washer and on into the threads. Maybe, but I'm doubtful.

You can always see if they'll pop loose with normal forces before trying the PB. The only fear is that the plug wire might have "welded" itself to the plug; so have a back up plan if it doesn't come off cleanly/ leaves pieces behind.

 

[KrisZ]

If PB blaster or any other such product was able to make its way through the spark plug threads in a fairly short amount of time like a day, I would not expect the engine to have much compression.

 

[WishIhadatruck]

On all the V6 engines I've had where the back 3 are blind, I found the hose trick is very helpful to get the threads started. One time I was struggling to get one started and fussed with it for a few minutes before remembering the hose I had from a few years before for just such a job. I had it started in about 3 seconds once I had the hose on it. Works great!

I always get back there with a compressed air hose to blow out debris before loosening the plugs and taking them out. You don't want any debris falling down in the hole.

 

[mehullica]

I've done plugs in that model hundreds of times working at the dealer. You don't need to spray anything in the spark plug tubes. The hardest part will be getting the bank 1 coil wire harness off each coil. Remove the pcv, pcv hose, purge hose, cruise control cable & 12mm bracket on the intake manifold side & you can reach each hand under the intake manifold. It's a little painful, but about 1 hour & you'll be done.

 

[joegreen]

I did the original plugs on my 2000 es300 same motor around the same miles as you. I didn't use oil or anything and they came out fine.

 

[wing0]

Originally Posted By: mehullica
I've done plugs in that model hundreds of times working at the dealer. You don't need to spray anything in the spark plug tubes. The hardest part will be getting the bank 1 coil wire harness off each coil. Remove the pcv, pcv hose, purge hose, cruise control cable & 12mm bracket on the intake manifold side & you can reach each hand under the intake manifold. It's a little painful, but about 1 hour & you'll be done.


Thanks for the tips. I will attempt first without spraying anything.
I hope my back is up for the task since I'm not that tall or have long arms so I'll need to use a stool.

Originally Posted By: joegreen
I did the original plugs on my 2000 es300 same motor around the same miles as you. I didn't use oil or anything and they came out fine.


Thanks for sharing your past experience.

I also like the idea of using compress air to blow out any debris that's inside the well. I wish I thought of that when I did changes before.

 

[JGmazda]

Anyone have any tips for a 2001 Buick LeSabre? Front plugs are super easy to see... rears? I've heard a rumor that the engine needs to be dropped and it's a dealer gig.

Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: SumpChump
A drop of Kroil will do wonders.... waaaaay better than Blaster.

Worth ordering and waiting.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09...rd_i=B000F09CF4



This will work only if you back out the plugs a little before applying.Be thankful you don't have to do this on a Ford Truck.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: JGmazda
Anyone have any tips for a 2001 Buick LeSabre? Front plugs are super easy to see... rears? I've heard a rumor that the engine needs to be dropped and it's a dealer gig.

Any ideas? Thanks!


I'm pretty sure you can roll that engine forward. I'd look into that, I'm sure someone will know. Rolling the engine forward in my 00 Century to get at the plugs was fairly easy. Getting the old boots off was another story which took a bit of time.