Ball Joint Recommendations

[eagle23]

The Search function didn't help much so I thought I'd just ask.

I am going to replace the upper and lower ball joints on my old (1991) Ford Ranger.

OEM and Moog or off brands are on Amazon or Rock. Are Mevotech or Centric worth considering?

Any preferred brands based on your experiences?

Thanks

 

[Olas]

Anything that sees a lot of use like bearings, balljoints, bushes etc, it's always best to go OEM, cheap aftermarket stuff fails too quickly.
On balance, if you put in a couple hours research on google, you'll be able to find aftermarket parts that are better than OEM but will cost more, too.

You get what you pay for

 

[Donald]

I would go with OEM or Moog.

 

[SZR48207]

You might also see if you can purchase an entire control arm assembly with a ball joint already pressed in for a few more dollars.

OEM and then Moog.

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: Reddy45
You might also see if you can purchase an entire control arm assembly with a ball joint already pressed in for a few more dollars.

OEM and then Moog.


+1

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: Reddy45
You might also see if you can purchase an entire control arm assembly with a ball joint already pressed in for a few more dollars.

OEM and then Moog.

You're not familiar with Ford's Twin I-Beam suspension, are you? 1991 Ford Rangers don't have control arms.

 

[exranger06]

I like Napa's NCP line for ball joints and other suspension parts. Their cheaper line (Master Ride) on the other hand, is junk. Of course, you can't go wrong with OEM also.

 

[eagle23]

Thanks, guys. It was good to learn my two main choices were good ones.

I should have specified it was the Twin I-beam suspension not the control arms of later years.

I'll choose between OEM and Moog. The NAPA parts are available, but are even more expensive than OEM on Amazon.

 

[Lubener]

Moog problem solvers with fittings. You will never wear those out if you grease them periodically.

 

[ARB1977]

OEM

 

[Falcon_LS]

If you can get the OEM part in the brown box, and not the Motorcraft Value range, that's the one you want. But given the vehicle's age, you'll probably be hard pushed knowing Ford.

I highly suggest Lemfoerder if they're available for that application.

 

[Trav]

Moog inner are a good joint for rack and pinion but their outers suck. Pi$$ poor boots and grease fittings.
Unless you have an off road, construction equipment or over the road truck leave the zerk fittings alone.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Moog inner are a good joint for rack and pinion but their outers suck. Pi$$ poor boots and grease fittings.
Unless you have an off road, construction equipment or over the road truck leave the zerk fittings alone.


Trav, from your experience is greasable vs. nongreasable on a ball joint a consideration?

I would have assumed a greasable joint was preferred but realistically may not make much difference.

In pricing for all 4 joints on Amazon (the free shipping usually beats Rock Auto), the OEMs are about $45 more than the Moogs.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS

I highly suggest Lemfoerder if they're available for that application.


Unfortunately they only seem available for BMWs not old Fords ;o)

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Lubener
Moog problem solvers with fittings. You will never wear those out if you grease them periodically.
This

 

[barkingspider]

On a 91 pick up truck, u can go with the economy ball joints and they should last the remainder of the trucks life or until you sell or junk it. If u are going to keep the truck running another 5-10 years, go moog or oem. I have moog problem solvers on my Silverado and they are good

 

[GaleHawkins]

Originally Posted By: eagle23
The Search function didn't help much so I thought I'd just ask.

I am going to replace the upper and lower ball joints on my old (1991) Ford Ranger.

OEM and Moog or off brands are on Amazon or Rock. Are Mevotech or Centric worth considering?

Any preferred brands based on your experiences?

Thanks


eagle23 we went with Mevotech upper/lowers on the son's 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 last summer. I with with the above the OEM grade so they have grease fittings now. MOOG 'problem solvers' seem to about equal in quality and price. I have used the MOOG problem solvers parts on the Ford 500 car recently.

Since the labor is the same cost I just go with the top of the line front end parts since their replacement is a once in a life time thing. MOOG is better known but any line with grease fitting should be of high quality. OEM while lower quality are fine too.

At 110K miles the front end showed a lot of wear but was not at the point of being highly unsafe yet but since it was for the 18 year old son to drive to college for four years hopefully I just wanted him to have new moving parts in the front end so the parts are not 2015 and better than OEM. The boots/seals were broken/missing so it was a matter of time before safety would have been a major concern to me.

 

[eagle23]

Originally Posted By: barkingspider
On a 91 pick up truck, u can go with the economy ball joints and they should last the remainder of the trucks life or until you sell or junk it. If u are going to keep the truck running another 5-10 years, go moog or oem. I have moog problem solvers on my Silverado and they are good


I will probably keep it another 5-10 yr. It only has about 97k original miles (bought it from the original family owners). I've gone through the other systems, and it's pretty much a mild, ongoing project I work on when I want.

The the body is in good shape. Need (want) to get the hood/cowl/roof repainted since the clearcoat is virtually gone and the basecoat is flaking down to the primer. The vertical surfaces are fine. Found a good local shop that will do it for a reasonable price (and he's also a car guy). It spent most of its life outside.

Back to topic, I'll check the budget but may go with Moog. I gave to grease the tie rod ends anyway.

Really appreciate the input, folks.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: eagle23
Originally Posted By: Trav
Moog inner are a good joint for rack and pinion but their outers suck. Pi$$ poor boots and grease fittings.
Unless you have an off road, construction equipment or over the road truck leave the zerk fittings alone.


Trav, from your experience is greasable vs. nongreasable on a ball joint a consideration?

I would have assumed a greasable joint was preferred but realistically may not make much difference.

In pricing for all 4 joints on Amazon (the free shipping usually beats Rock Auto), the OEMs are about $45 more than the Moogs.


I never buy joints with grease fittings unless there is no other option. They are okay if you maintain them religiously but in the real world they get neglected.
The boots are purposely made looser to allow old grease to escape but they also let water and dirt in causing wear.
Moog has tried to make sort of a hybrid boot that is pressed on the joint with a small escapement passage but these have proven problematic, many are almost cut right through by the machine that presses them on causing a weak spot in the boot.

If they would have used a more conventional spiral ring on the bottom instead it might have better and definitely more durable, Moog is well aware of this issue yet continues to make them, 4 years ago they claimed they were working on a new design.
It seems they have implemented it on some new joints.

https://summitracing.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4583/~/why-is-the-moog-ball-joint-i-purchased-missing-its-dust-boot%3F

LFL joints have been used for decades and its not uncommon to see 20 year old cars with the original joints still doing okay.
I looked at an old car the other day with its 20 yr old joints still in serviceable condition. Its not uncommon to see cars of all makes with old joints that are still okay.
The fact you install and forget them and get the same life span or better makes them a no brainer IMO.

Moog fan will never admit they should be avoided if possible, they still recommend them even when they can get the friggin boots on as in this thread.

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56495

 

[eagle23]

Thanks, Trav.

I'll look more closely at the joints I'm considering.

I think the OEM replacements have grease fittings but that could be a stock photo, not necessarily the actual replacement joint. As said, I don't mind greasing them since I have to grease the tie rod ends anyway. As few miles as the truck gets that's every year or so.