2014 Toyota Corolla 1.8 LE ECO PLUS

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Hey guys

I did go through Napa but they couldn't get their brand so they got the sample kit from Butler Caterpillar. This car has always had 10K OCI as that is what the book and 3 different dealers recommended. All of my driving is with 20+ mile trips. I do drive a lot of gravel if that matters.

Would like to know what your opinions are, I am not really knowledgeable when it comes to reading this information. I used Mobil 1 extended performance on my new oil change.

Thanks

Car Toyota Corolla Le Eco Plus
Oil Mobil 1 0W-20
OCI 10,000 miles

Sample taken 9-1-15 to 2-20-16

COPPER 4
IRON 19
CHROME 1
NICKLE 1
ALUMINIUM 8
SILICON 10
SODIUM 8
POTASSIUM 1
MOLY 64
BORON 29
CALCIUM 1020
MAGNESIUM 557
PHOSPHOROUS 602
ZINC 700
SULFUR 23
OXIDATION 17
NITR 14
Visc cSt 6.9
100 C
Visc 10W
SAE
Ferrous 5
Debris
ANTIFREEZE NO
FUEL NO
WATER NO
 
I'm guessing that you left out the lead and tin because they were both zeros, so all is well. The oil is in good shape, with no contamination from coolant or fuel and as bullwinkle said, the silicon is very low for the miles and conditions.

The viscosity is within the 20 grade range but on the lower end of it. I don't know if it's sheared that much or if there's a hint of fuel that testing couldn't detect. I'm just noting it, not saying you need to change anything.
 
Too late to edit my previous post but I think 6.9 cSt is now the very bottom of the 20 grade range...is it not?

I don't keep up with the gasoline uoa's so good anymore. I don't know if that's normal for M1 AFE to shear down that much or if the engine is just a little tough on it. Or as I mentioned above, there could be a little undetected fuel.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dustyroads
I'm guessing that you left out the lead and tin because they were both zeros, so all is well. The oil is in good shape, with no contamination from coolant or fuel and as bullwinkle said, the silicon is very low for the miles and conditions.

The viscosity is within the 20 grade range but on the lower end of it. I don't know if it's sheared that much or if there's a hint of fuel that testing couldn't detect. I'm just noting it, not saying you need to change anything.


Yes lead and tin are both zero.

I do drive at least 100 miles per week on gravel so my guess on this 10k oil change there would be around 2500 to maybe a few more gravel miles.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: sdude2k2000
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Iron is a little high. Here's 10k on a Camry with tgmo:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3954381/2012_Toyota_Camry_UOA#Post3954381


That was my thought as well looking at the OP's UOA... Iron is a tad high. Not crazy high or worrisome high, but higher than I'm used to seeing with 4-cyl Toyota UOA's. Viscosity is really low as well... which is more worrisome if you ask me. I'd be curious as to why.


Any suggestions as to should I switch to a different oil?
This is the regular Mobil 1, I put Mobil 1 EP in for this change.

The other thing I was wondering if there would be more iron for an oil that has went through winter compared to summer?
 
One other thing I should say is this car does not warm up good in the winter. I had it to the dealer and they said its normal. From what I have found this car has something on it that pumps the coolant into the transmission for better fuel mileage. It isn't so much of a problem at warmer temps but when its 20 or colder it just doesn't warm up.

On a typical 0 degree day it will warm up to 130 but after that it doesn't warm up much. Even after 20 miles of driving it struggles to get up to 150. I am thinking next year I might try to bypass this somewhat by adding some tee's and valves to slow the coolant flow down.

Could colder engine temps be bringing the Iron up?
 
How about a good old fashoned WINTER FRONT for the radiator or Grill

Truckers have been using them for years , we use one on our jeep as it has a viscous drive fan and it is turning even when cold

Just a thought for next season, Ice should be on it's way out and the land of 10,000 lakes is coming back to life soon
49.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Nitronoise
How about a good old fashoned WINTER FRONT for the radiator or Grill

Truckers have been using them for years , we use one on our jeep as it has a viscous drive fan and it is turning even when cold

Just a thought for next season, Ice should be on it's way out and the land of 10,000 lakes is coming back to life soon
49.gif



A winter front won't help because the motor is losing to much heat to the transmission.

This is a new thing as far as I know where coolant lines go directly into the transmission.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: countryboy9799

Is TGMO a better oil than Mobil 1 in the Toyotas?



I believe so. I use Pennzoil Platinum or QSUD in mine but for 10k I would use TGMO
 
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