Blowby Additive Testing

[landtoy80]

As said before I have excessive blowby in my 94 Land Cruiser FZJ80 gas motor 1FZ-FE with 438,000 mi. I have been debating on if I should fix it up or just drive it into the ground.
Well, after washing the vehicle the carpet was wet. After inspecting and patching with old license plates, I found that the rust is worse than I thought it was. With all the items that need addressing, I had determent that its not worth investing $$$$ into. I am keeping it and will just drive it till something $$$ breaks.

I still would like to do some experimenting with an additive to see if it really works to reduce blowby. Any ideas on which one to try?

I would like to be somewhat redneck scientific about it. Thinking of making a blowby meter like this one.

But have it inside a bottle so I can monitor it while driving. I would more likely use a balloon as I dont want to explain to wife why I am buying condoms. I would poke holes in it so it can breath.

Other idea was to use a party blower in a bottle. I could put marks on it, where #0 would be no blowby, no movement of roll out and #5 would be full blowby, full extension of roll out. Think I could patent this idea.

 

[Ramblejam]

What oil/viscosity are you currently using?

 

[landtoy80]

Fixed pic.

Rotella T6 5w40 with one (winter) or two cans (summer) of LM motor Oil Saver. Was using LM MOS2 10w40 oil with one or two cans of Motor Oil Saver. The Motor Oil Saver really thickens up/increases viscosity of oil. With one can of Motor Oil Saver and LM 10w40 I had hard starting in cold weather so for winter, made oil to thick to crank. I switch back to T6 and one can of Motor Oil Saver. The additive says it increases viscosity of oil. I have a 8 qt oil sump.

I have done a compression test but not a leak down test. Will buy a tester when work picks up.


As said in other posts, I was getting major oil dilution or degrading do to the fact that the crankcase was not able to breath. The PCV system couldn't keep up with the blowby. I now vent to atmosphere and after 1100, mi on oil change, consumption is down and oil looks better.

I have been running with pressurized crankcase for over 60,000 mi. Go about 9000 mi on OCI.
Not sure if all that degraded and diluted oil had any affect on the rings that might of caused them to be sticky or they could just be wore out.

I just changed the oil and will do testing next oil change. I drive about 500 mi a week so it wont be too long before next change unless works gets slower.

 

[Ramblejam]

Toyota was fine with 20w-50 in these engines down to 19°F, and that was with oils of 20 years ago.

Originally Posted By: landtoy80
might of caused them to be sticky


1. Order Kreen: http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html

2. Pick whatever 15w-50 or 20w-50 you want.

 

[landtoy80]

How much do you need for 8qt sump? I dont see instructions on their website.

I like the additives that offer money back back offer if it doesn't work. With using some sort of meter to measure blowby, I will know if it worked or not. It rules out the placebo affect.

 

[Ramblejam]

You'll just need one quart.

After the Kreen cleaning cycle, do not dump anything in your engine other than straight oil (no more additives!).

Five quart jug of Castrol GTX 20w-50 is available on the shelf at the Walmart in Grand Junction (on North Ave., or Rimrock Ave.) for $15.27!

 

[Joe90_guy]

This is an interesting hypothetical problem...

The question is, are your rings just plain worn away to nothing or just stuck fast in their grooves by a couple of decades worth of accumulated grot? Just for buggeration value, let's say it's the latter and you're looking for an oil to clear out as much of the garbage from the grooves as possible without doing stuff like MMO soaks, etc.

If it were me I'd get some kind soul (MoleKule?) to blend up 10 litres of the following...

93.0% Exxon 600SN Group I
1.5% ZDDP (any)
5.5% Ashless dispersant (any)

ABSOLUTELY NO VII POLYMER or PPD!

Wait for a very hot day. Leave oil out in the full sun. Change oil.

Try and start engine. Try not to think too much about the strain you're putting on your battery or your oil pump seals!! Drive around close to where you live (just in case engine conks out) for a few hours. Drain oil. If it's the same colour it went in, then experiment has failed. If it's black or has visible black bits in it, pour it straight back in and drive around a bit more. Do your condom blow-by test. Is blow-by reduced? If yes, drain oil, replace with something off-the-shelf and drive for another 450,000 miles.

In all my days making oils, I never found anything that came close to 600SN Group I for keeping pistons clean. Sometimes extreme measures are worth the risk...

 

[landtoy80]

Where do you get those ingredients?

 

[Joe90_guy]

Originally Posted By: landtoy80
Where do you get those ingredients?


Sadly only someone in the industry could get hold of this stuff which is why I nominated MoleKule (he's big on BITOG). I hung my lab coat up for the last time a while back otherwise I'd sort you out some oil myself.

 

[Eddie]

Condoms have a great many uses. We used them on one gallon bottles of wine to show how the fermenting process was progressing. Ed