Half an Oil Change?
- Thread starter Ihatetochangeoil
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Originally Posted By: Atesz792
That's basically what an oil burner does by default. Partial oil "changes" all the time.
Has anyone established that with UOA? I can imagine that the blowby/contamination that comes with worn rings probably mitigates any positive effect of the fresh supply of oil.
That's basically what an oil burner does by default. Partial oil "changes" all the time.
Has anyone established that with UOA? I can imagine that the blowby/contamination that comes with worn rings probably mitigates any positive effect of the fresh supply of oil.
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Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
my oil is about 8 times as clean as new oil
How did you do that?
I'm running an NTZ AL-09. Manufacturer claims it is 99.97% efficient at 2 microns; beta ratio of 2000: http://www.ntzfilter.com/sect2a.asp Scroll down to the bottom of the page and click here. This is used on Industrial equipment and is ~$300.
And yes, HerrStig, my oil is cleaner than oil from the containers you put in your engine as new and definitely anything on a dealer lot; and I have UOA on new oil as a baseline to document it. If I spent ~$300 on a bypass filter, don't you think I'm going to document/measure if it does as manufacturer claims? It does.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
my oil is about 8 times as clean as new oil
How did you do that?
I'm running an NTZ AL-09. Manufacturer claims it is 99.97% efficient at 2 microns; beta ratio of 2000: http://www.ntzfilter.com/sect2a.asp Scroll down to the bottom of the page and click here. This is used on Industrial equipment and is ~$300.
And yes, HerrStig, my oil is cleaner than oil from the containers you put in your engine as new and definitely anything on a dealer lot; and I have UOA on new oil as a baseline to document it. If I spent ~$300 on a bypass filter, don't you think I'm going to document/measure if it does as manufacturer claims? It does.
Have you considered getting TBN+TAN?
Clean oil is great but you need to know when your additive package is depleted.
Notice how the viscosity is higher than the new oil? That could be a sign of oxidation which means your getting closer to the end of lubricant life.
Clean oil is great but you need to know when your additive package is depleted.
Notice how the viscosity is higher than the new oil? That could be a sign of oxidation which means your getting closer to the end of lubricant life.
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Yes, sorry. My TBN for (the) new oil I had done for baseline is 11.5 and my oil with 8K on it has dropped to 4.06. They don't do a TAN until the TBN has dropped more, and I'm well aware that the optimal time to perform an oil change is when the TAN line and the TBN intersect.
What I have hoped to do with my "partial" oil change is raise my TBN; and now that the majority of the contaminants have been removed, my additive package SHOULD last longer. I'm hoping and speculating, time & tests will tell. Right now, I'm thoroughly enjoying my "bragging rights" that my 8K oil is much cleaner than new oil.
I didn't think to list my TBN because there is no ______ for it on the "copy."
What I have hoped to do with my "partial" oil change is raise my TBN; and now that the majority of the contaminants have been removed, my additive package SHOULD last longer. I'm hoping and speculating, time & tests will tell. Right now, I'm thoroughly enjoying my "bragging rights" that my 8K oil is much cleaner than new oil.
I didn't think to list my TBN because there is no ______ for it on the "copy."
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Earlye, Thanks for the insults and no help. I did what you suggested and got nowhere. Good thing I'm doing my UOA for my own info and not to impress strangers.
what insults?
none were intended.
perhaps i was unclear in my posting.
Code:
OIL GC0w30 GC0w30
MILES IN USE 4.4k 4.6k
MILES 152.5k 148.1k
SAMPLE TAKEN 10/27/07 7/21/07
ALUMINUM 2 3
CHROMIUM 0 1
IRON 12 17
COPPER 14 13
LEAD 22 19
TIN 0 0
MOLYBDENUM 6 18
NICKEL 0 1
MANGANESE 0 0
SILVER 0 0
TITANIUM 0 0
POTASSIUM 6 10
BORON 5 12
SILICON 7 9
SODIUM 19 24
CALCIUM 1866 2013
MAGNESIUM 525 424
PHOSPHORUS 842 797
ZINC 1082 1041
BARIUM 0 0
INSOLUBLES 0.4 0.3
WATER 0 0
FLASHPOINT ºF 415 395
SUS VIS 210ºF 66.8 67.7
cSt @ 212ºF 12.11 12.33
click "quote" down below, in the reply window, select and copy everything between and including
discard that window, paste into your posting, then, go through your uoa report, and replace the individual results(numbers), line by line, with your results.
is that more helpful? again, no insults intended.
and as stated, this is the "preferred" method for this forum, since the data will stay intact,nearly indefinitely, and you don't have to worry about image hosting services going down, accidentally deleting an image you are sharing, etc.
Earlye, Thanks for the insults and no help. I did what you suggested and got nowhere. Good thing I'm doing my UOA for my own info and not to impress strangers.
what insults?
none were intended.
perhaps i was unclear in my posting.
Code:
OIL GC0w30 GC0w30
MILES IN USE 4.4k 4.6k
MILES 152.5k 148.1k
SAMPLE TAKEN 10/27/07 7/21/07
ALUMINUM 2 3
CHROMIUM 0 1
IRON 12 17
COPPER 14 13
LEAD 22 19
TIN 0 0
MOLYBDENUM 6 18
NICKEL 0 1
MANGANESE 0 0
SILVER 0 0
TITANIUM 0 0
POTASSIUM 6 10
BORON 5 12
SILICON 7 9
SODIUM 19 24
CALCIUM 1866 2013
MAGNESIUM 525 424
PHOSPHORUS 842 797
ZINC 1082 1041
BARIUM 0 0
INSOLUBLES 0.4 0.3
WATER 0 0
FLASHPOINT ºF 415 395
SUS VIS 210ºF 66.8 67.7
cSt @ 212ºF 12.11 12.33
click "quote" down below, in the reply window, select and copy everything between and including
Code:
is that more helpful? again, no insults intended.
and as stated, this is the "preferred" method for this forum, since the data will stay intact,nearly indefinitely, and you don't have to worry about image hosting services going down, accidentally deleting an image you are sharing, etc.
Last edited:
I believe in some cases running the TAN higher than TBN is certainly doable but you have to see how everything else is doing too. At that point I would be keeping a close eye on iron ppm per mile and viscosity
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
However, I don't think my air filter is as good as my oil filtration; I've got 30 ppm silicon. (Blackstone and other labs start caution at about 20 ppm Si.). Since I've run the oil only 8K, I've used (and drawn out samples) consisting of almost half a quart. I've got a valve mounted inline to draw samples from, so, I thought, why not "bleed" off a quart and top up with new oil? This should slightly lower my silicon count and raise my TBN.
I think, the elevated silicon in the oil is just a symptom, an indicator. And the root cause is that the air filtration is not as good as it should be. Consequently, the right way to address the problem is to change the air filter and double-check the air intake, all pipes and connections.
And whether you change the oil now, or half of it, or let it run till the end of the planned OCI - I think it's not that important...
However, I don't think my air filter is as good as my oil filtration; I've got 30 ppm silicon. (Blackstone and other labs start caution at about 20 ppm Si.). Since I've run the oil only 8K, I've used (and drawn out samples) consisting of almost half a quart. I've got a valve mounted inline to draw samples from, so, I thought, why not "bleed" off a quart and top up with new oil? This should slightly lower my silicon count and raise my TBN.
I think, the elevated silicon in the oil is just a symptom, an indicator. And the root cause is that the air filtration is not as good as it should be. Consequently, the right way to address the problem is to change the air filter and double-check the air intake, all pipes and connections.
And whether you change the oil now, or half of it, or let it run till the end of the planned OCI - I think it's not that important...
Nice to see your bypass system working so well.
What type of intake filter are you using?
What type of intake filter are you using?- Joined
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I'm using a Pro Dry S; and I guess I'm not real happy with it.The entire intake plumbing is new tubing held together with beveled aluminum inserts and stainless clamps meant for turbo usage.
Wrecked my car that had an Amsoil nanofiber air filter and Amsoil has discontinued them. I have tested K & N before and my silicon counts were in the stratosphere. Know of any good brand or type of air filters?
BTW, thanks; I'm pleased thus far with this NTZ bypass filter.
Wrecked my car that had an Amsoil nanofiber air filter and Amsoil has discontinued them. I have tested K & N before and my silicon counts were in the stratosphere. Know of any good brand or type of air filters?
BTW, thanks; I'm pleased thus far with this NTZ bypass filter.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
I'm using a Pro Dry S; and I guess I'm not real happy with it.The entire intake plumbing is new tubing held together with beveled aluminum inserts and stainless clamps meant for turbo usage.
Wrecked my car that had an Amsoil nanofiber air filter and Amsoil has discontinued them. I have tested K & N before and my silicon counts were in the stratosphere. Know of any good brand or type of air filters?
BTW, thanks; I'm pleased thus far with this NTZ bypass filter.
Ah, I heard the pro dry series was an excellent filter, but like the K&N doesn't live up to the hype. I had a K&N on my Cummins, but took it off and put the oem paper filter on it. I never had an oil analysis to confirm the silicone but what alarmed me was that the intake had lots of dust in it. Since my filter change, there's no dust in the intake and my oil analysis are 4ppm which is excellent. I would like to find a good re-usable filter, but not at the cost of my engine.
I'm using a Pro Dry S; and I guess I'm not real happy with it.The entire intake plumbing is new tubing held together with beveled aluminum inserts and stainless clamps meant for turbo usage.
Wrecked my car that had an Amsoil nanofiber air filter and Amsoil has discontinued them. I have tested K & N before and my silicon counts were in the stratosphere. Know of any good brand or type of air filters?
BTW, thanks; I'm pleased thus far with this NTZ bypass filter.
Ah, I heard the pro dry series was an excellent filter, but like the K&N doesn't live up to the hype. I had a K&N on my Cummins, but took it off and put the oem paper filter on it. I never had an oil analysis to confirm the silicone but what alarmed me was that the intake had lots of dust in it. Since my filter change, there's no dust in the intake and my oil analysis are 4ppm which is excellent. I would like to find a good re-usable filter, but not at the cost of my engine.
I like the Dry Flow air filters if I go after market filters
http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filters.aspx
Easy to clean, no oil and they do filter very well. UOA's back this up in my truck and sports car.
ROD
http://www.aemintakes.com/air_filters.aspx
Easy to clean, no oil and they do filter very well. UOA's back this up in my truck and sports car.
ROD
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
my particle count is 14/13/11 compared to my baseline sample of new oil having 17/16/13; so my oil is about 8 times as clean as new oil, all of my wear metals look excellent and my TBN is well within limits...
I know this is an old post... I am reading through older posts. What do the numbers in the particle count, 14/13/11 refer to?
Thanks!
my particle count is 14/13/11 compared to my baseline sample of new oil having 17/16/13; so my oil is about 8 times as clean as new oil, all of my wear metals look excellent and my TBN is well within limits...
I know this is an old post... I am reading through older posts. What do the numbers in the particle count, 14/13/11 refer to?
Thanks!
I believe this should answer your question
https://info.hyprofiltration.com/blog/bi...eanliness-Codes
https://info.hyprofiltration.com/blog/bi...eanliness-Codes
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