So........hello

[hotrodjr2016]

Hi all,

I have been reading these forums for a couple months now and have some ideas I'd like to run by you guys as I've been unable to get concrete answers myself.

First some background information: I have a 2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner (4.0L, 2WD)

So the first thing I wanted to do was figure out what the largest outer diameter oil filter I could use, so far it looks like m1-209 for reference.

I have looked into a combination or dual flow spin on filter such as a Baldwin BD7120 or MANN WP114, As well as the Microgreen MG301-1. These examples appear as if they will fit 1gr-fe, and have the built in bypass filtration I am seeking.
If someone could please verify this, it would be great. Also this is for the sake of knowing it will work so please refrain from recommending a remote bypass. In this case I am specifically interested in a combo type spin on filter.

My second area of interest is in centrifugal bypass filters. Does anyone have experience making one of these work on a small 4.0L 1gr-fe? If not perhaps some recommendations as I understand that Tacomas are known for low oil pressure at idle and a bypass system like this would cause a further drop in oil pressure. Again I'm just interested in making it work.

I DO NOT intend for my above statments to come off as rude or anything of that nature. I'm just trying to save the obvious follow up posts of recommendations for remote bypass filter setups that most people use. The intent is to find a way to make the idea work and that is all.

I would like to thank you all in advance and cannot wait until I have my mind blown from the amount of knowledge that is about to be dropped on me.

Have a great weekend everyone.

 

[dave123]

First I'd crawl under and see if the frame is rotting away not knowing what part of country you live in good chance it is. The engine will go forever pretty well known fact I run a RP 20-400 probably overkill.

 

[Donald]

I just pulled a Microgreen filter off my Jeep. Nothing special. A poor UOA but that probably has nothing to do with the oil filter.

I would use quality oil and a quality filter. I am not sure the bypass buys you much.

Have you pulled a valve cover off for a look?

Don't fixate on the oil and filter. There are other fluids that need attention. Along with overall maint.

 

[CT8]

Hi! why do you want the bypass filter? Bigger oil filter? Review this uoa link. This link. Use a name brand oil change is on a regular schedale and drive the Toyota they are nice trucks.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Hello and Welcome to BITOG!!

I won't try to talk you into anything; you do whatever lets you sleep at night. I'll just share some experiences from being OCD on my motor oil. I have been running Microgreen (bypass) filters for awhile, and I can't see any difference in my UOA.

Secondly, I am in process of purchasing some SMALL Centrifuges (about the size of a coffee cup) ~75mm X 130mm. English equivalent I think is about 3" X 5 1/4" + (Not much bigger than a coffee cup); from an overseas seller.

I plan to do whatever fabrication is necessary to mount this on my vehicle; and I'm going to couple this with a Puradyn bypass filter, which has 5 US patents; http://s300.photobucket.com/user/Inspect...sort=3&o=37 one of their patents is for "timed release additives," which will replenish the TBN in motor oil.

My GOAL is to never have to change my oil again. The cleaninng ability of centrifuges is well documented: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1347/centrifuge-contaminants

I can find nowhere (on BITOG or anywhere) that anyone has posted UOA with particle counts, using a centrifuge. I intend to do this. Just for curiosities sake, here is a picture of my Puradyn mounted: http://s300.photobucket.com/user/Inspect...sort=3&o=34

You can see from the photo that I also have a custom LOCKING oil cap; no one is going to change my oil/add to it without my knowledge and consent.

My reason for posting in response to your thread is that I thought you might be interested in seeing UOA reports using a centrifuge.

I have been doing UOA already since 2011, and I have been on the phone a couple times with the director of the lab. Mr. Alan Bender of Oil Analysis labs tells me that the 2 WORST things you can have in your oil are Iron and Silicon. Iron is your engine literally disintegrating (microscopically) and silicon is rock; harder than Iron. Silicon comes in your air intake; you shouldn't have more than 20 or so ppm in a UOA.

I hope and want to believe that the addition of a centrifuge will minimize these (among others) harmful contaminants in my oil.

Best of luck to you! PM me if you want to continue discussion...

 

[skyactiv]

A larger oil filter is only good for two things:

1. Extended oil changes beyond what is recommended by the manufacture
2. Lowering your oil pressure.

Does either sound good to you?

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

^^ This may or may not be accurate; depending upon your specific engine. My GM 3800 has excellent oil pressure and a DIC; I can monitor oil pressure while running and I do. Addition of bypass filtration (larger/additional oil filter) DID NOT lower my oil pressure.

For further info on how much oil pressure is desirable, see Motor Oil University classroom 105.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-105/

I have seen engines on coworkers vehicles which are designed for failure. I have 55 psi at a hot idle, which is more than adequate; with room for wear, which is inevitable. I have a friend at work whose oil pressure PEAKS at 35; even at highway speed. IMHO, this is engineered failure. I wish I could remember what he drives.

 

[Nitronoise]

Welcome To BITOG
you will learn a lot , I used to use bypass filters on my old Detroit diesels with sucess before oil quality was what it is today , but trying it in an automotive application with 4 or 5 qts is going to take a long time to acheive a substantial ROI.

When you can run for 5000 to 10000 OCI for 25.00 bucks max for an oil change, I run my fleet to 5K OCI as a rule as I have no Idea where or what my kids do when they are away at college , only 3 vehicles I can watch closely are my 2 and my wife car, so the Jeep and Hyundai get short OCI's just because I may not see the for 3-4 months at a crack and the Hyundai at 270 K speaks for it's self

Key is goood oil and filters , don't cut corners on maintainence and your vehicle will serve you well, do your timing belts and chains watch for leaks and drips as it will always be a teltale sign

Welcometo BITOG

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: skyactiv
A larger oil filter is only good for two things:

1. Extended oil changes beyond what is recommended by the manufacture
2. Lowering your oil pressure.

Does either sound good to you?
How does a larger oil filter lower pressure?

 

[hotrodjr2016]

With all do respect, the reason I posted this was not to seem like this setup was optimal, just that I want to see if I can make it work properly by whatever means necessary. My concern is that if I were to attempt any one of these ideas, there would be large amounts of information I'm missing on the subject matter and would be likely to fail. I want to iron out all the details because I'm sure there is plenty that I don't know that I don't know about.

I just want to force this this idea to work on paper, nothing more.

 

[Piston_slap]

Anyone one here remember or still use a "Frantz Oil Filter"? Does one use a name brand such as Scott or is the bargain brand OK?

 

[AlaskaMike]

For the TP filters, you generally want the cheap single-ply stuff. I'm currently using a brand called "POM" from Sam's Club.