Mobil 1 5W/20 EP 9098 Miles, 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0
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Think I would be losing the EP & trying something cheaper, for a shorter run, like 5K, & see if the numbers improve any. Oil (& engine) is getting cooked/worked hard, from the looks of it. Oxidation/nitration numbers would be worth paying for on this one.
I recommend a 5W30 of your choice and re-sample at your normal interval or even a 40 grade.
I thought EP was good 'til 15k miles!!!!!!
prior run:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3523860/Mobil_1_5W/20,_7963_Miles,_200#Post3523860
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3523860/Mobil_1_5W/20,_7963_Miles,_200#Post3523860
You must he driving it like a Nascar right? That's what causes excessive bearing wear in healthy engines
Ugh. Ditch the 5w20 and try a shorter OCI it looks like you are absolutely trashing your oil.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Ugh. Ditch the 5w20 and try a shorter OCI it looks like you are absolutely trashing your oil.
This!
Ugh. Ditch the 5w20 and try a shorter OCI it looks like you are absolutely trashing your oil.
This!
Hmm. The 100C viscosity of 11.3 is on the thicker side of 30 weight... How come 5w20 got there?
Need more info.
Obviously this isn't driven much. 9k in 16 months. How is it driven when it is? 2 miles at a time?
Youve managed to cause a synthetic to thicken. Would be nice to see TBN and Oxd/Nit numbers; this oil is beyond toast.
From my own engines and experience, copper appears when the oil run is too long and fuel is in the oil much of the time.
Like when I was driving 2 miles to work and 2 miles home 5 days a week. If I tried to go for 5k miles I would have high copper.
I would try something like Supertech 5W30 every 6 months and see what happens. The idea is to get the trash building up in the oil out more often and get a refreshed additive package in there.
Obviously this isn't driven much. 9k in 16 months. How is it driven when it is? 2 miles at a time?
Youve managed to cause a synthetic to thicken. Would be nice to see TBN and Oxd/Nit numbers; this oil is beyond toast.
From my own engines and experience, copper appears when the oil run is too long and fuel is in the oil much of the time.
Like when I was driving 2 miles to work and 2 miles home 5 days a week. If I tried to go for 5k miles I would have high copper.
I would try something like Supertech 5W30 every 6 months and see what happens. The idea is to get the trash building up in the oil out more often and get a refreshed additive package in there.
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I would probably even short this OCI and do like a month on it and drain it; would be a good clean espically if it has M1 in it again. Saw you are running the Ultras on this. I think doing sump drains every 6 months and a filter at 1 year would be way better for this situation.
Bit of a puzzle isn't it...
Per the prior run we don't think Ford bearings contain lead.
It does do a lot of short tripping, but it isn't always short trips, it makes occasional longer runs into Atlanta proper and there is at least one trip to Florida on this sump.
This truck is out of my care most of the time, and another family member may have added make up oil or other additives. I wrote 5/20EP on the sticker so that should be what is in it.
It now has 5/30EP in it, with another Ultra. (When EP is on sale for $24 and change its cheaper to run that for ~10K than MC Blend at ~5K but maybe I will change next time)
Per the prior run we don't think Ford bearings contain lead.
It does do a lot of short tripping, but it isn't always short trips, it makes occasional longer runs into Atlanta proper and there is at least one trip to Florida on this sump.
This truck is out of my care most of the time, and another family member may have added make up oil or other additives. I wrote 5/20EP on the sticker so that should be what is in it.
It now has 5/30EP in it, with another Ultra. (When EP is on sale for $24 and change its cheaper to run that for ~10K than MC Blend at ~5K but maybe I will change next time)
Specially on 20.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Or lugging the engine if it is a manual.
I am new to the Ford 3.0L engine (2006 Five Hundred car) with 6 speed auto but I can lug it hard every day if I do not get on the gas hard enough to unlock the torque converter in 35-45 MPH speed zones.
At 110K miles of 5K OCI at the Ford dealership (the owner was a Ford salesman but it was driven by his wife) the engine is very clean inside so I plan to stick with the same level of OCI with the MC 5W-20 until I have new data that calls for a change after 10 years of Ford care. The oil change is $3 less than the Quik Lube place that uses the $2+ filters.
Getting the bottom side inspected by a Ford trained guy/gal every 5K miles may be a plus as long as I do not let them oversell me on parts.
I have a friend with a shop and his wife drives a PT Cruiser with a ton of miles. He changes the oil every 15K miles with M1 rated for those miles. The car still runs great and does not burn oil. Being old school 5K miles sounds like extended OCI's.
Or lugging the engine if it is a manual.
I am new to the Ford 3.0L engine (2006 Five Hundred car) with 6 speed auto but I can lug it hard every day if I do not get on the gas hard enough to unlock the torque converter in 35-45 MPH speed zones.
At 110K miles of 5K OCI at the Ford dealership (the owner was a Ford salesman but it was driven by his wife) the engine is very clean inside so I plan to stick with the same level of OCI with the MC 5W-20 until I have new data that calls for a change after 10 years of Ford care. The oil change is $3 less than the Quik Lube place that uses the $2+ filters.
Getting the bottom side inspected by a Ford trained guy/gal every 5K miles may be a plus as long as I do not let them oversell me on parts.
I have a friend with a shop and his wife drives a PT Cruiser with a ton of miles. He changes the oil every 15K miles with M1 rated for those miles. The car still runs great and does not burn oil. Being old school 5K miles sounds like extended OCI's.
Completely different Ford 3.0L.
This '02 Ranger has the 3.0L Vulcan. An old-school OHV all cast-iron engine that doesn't know how to die.
The 3.0L in the Five Hundred is a Duratec all aluminium DOHC engine.
This '02 Ranger has the 3.0L Vulcan. An old-school OHV all cast-iron engine that doesn't know how to die.
The 3.0L in the Five Hundred is a Duratec all aluminium DOHC engine.
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Someone dump a can of engine restore in it?
Frankly - it would not surprise me a lot, I should put an evidence seal on it, because other than the short trips it doesn't get hard use.
Someone dump a can of engine restore in it?
Frankly - it would not surprise me a lot, I should put an evidence seal on it, because other than the short trips it doesn't get hard use.
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