How to remove coolant from oil?

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Time ran out for me to edit the below post so my additional thoughts are right below. There was no edit of the technical info in the first post.

Note this procedure is seems to be more of a diesel/turbo charged engine in a professional shop. On newer vehicles without a distributor it would be hard to pump the mix through the engine without spinning the engine. Removing the spark plugs one might spin it with an air wrench on the front crankshaft pulley or with the starter. If I was going to do it at idle I might use AW64 just because it is heavier weight oil.

Note: over the years millions of engines got some antifreeze in the crankcase when doing head jobs I expect and they ran fine for a long time. If the engine has not been ran with antifreeze in the crankcase it is NOT at the crankshaft or rings. I would test mixing a cup of antifreeze with a cup of Marvel Mystery oil and again with a cup up of Seafoam to see if they would fully mix and not separate quickly. If one or the other stayed mixed well for a few minutes one might use the one that mixed best with 20 weigh dino motor oil (not synthetic) with a cheap filter and idle it for 3-5 minutes and drain and replace filter and a new "mix" and repeat once for maybe 5 minutes of idle time then go with required motor oil and filter. Not doing the above may be just as good however in engines not ran with antifreeze in the crankcase.

The below would be more for engines ran with antifreeze in the motor oil. I think all understand if the damage was done that flushing would only help reduce farther damage. In my case since we use Archoil AR9100 in all of our engines I for sure would use it. If I suspected rod bearing, crankshaft, rings or piston damage after running the engine 200 miles with the AR9100 in the crankcase I would drain and run AR9300 (very expensive). If all was well after 5000 miles I would 'assume' all was well.

In short in this case where the engine was not driven with antifreeze in the motor oil I would do nothing more than bring it up to operating temps (10-20 miles) with required weigh of motor oil and a new filter and drain within a couple minutes after I shut it off then change the oil and filter and 'assume' all was well.

It seems it is circulating antifreeze that does the real damage. Only time will tell if there was enough damage to shorten the life of the engine. If it is a $30K-$50K engine then one may want to just do a rebuild but if a good used engine will only cost $500 then a very short OCI would be as far as my prevention would go most likely.
smile.gif


Best of luck with your engine.


Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
This is the best scientific source I have read as to how to remove antifreeze from a crankcase. Read the full article below and I will paste in the summary from the article.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/193/oil-glycol

Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines
A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:

1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.

2. Install new filter elements.

3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.

4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C).

5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.

7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.

8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.

9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize.


AW-32 sold in farm/auto stores. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...9&ppt=C0139

Butyl Cellosolve may be harder to find locally but I would check with NAPA class of suppliers. It is on Amazon and eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Butoxyethanol-...725.m3641.l6368
 
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Time ran out for me to edit the below post so my additional thoughts are right below. There was no edit of the technical info in the first post.

Note this procedure is seems to be more of a diesel/turbo charged engine in a professional shop. On newer vehicles without a distributor it would be hard to pump the mix through the engine without spinning the engine. Removing the spark plugs one might spin it with an air wrench on the front crankshaft pulley or with the starter. If I was going to do it at idle I might use AW64 just because it is heavier weight oil.

Note: over the years millions of engines got some antifreeze in the crankcase when doing head jobs I expect and they ran fine for a long time. If the engine has not been ran with antifreeze in the crankcase it is NOT at the crankshaft or rings. I would test mixing a cup of antifreeze with a cup of Marvel Mystery oil and again with a cup up of Seafoam to see if they would fully mix and not separate quickly. If one or the other stayed mixed well for a few minutes one might use the one that mixed best with 20 weigh dino motor oil (not synthetic) with a cheap filter and idle it for 3-5 minutes and drain and replace filter and a new "mix" and repeat once for maybe 5 minutes of idle time then go with required motor oil and filter. Not doing the above may be just as good however in engines not ran with antifreeze in the crankcase.

The below would be more for engines ran with antifreeze in the motor oil. I think all understand if the damage was done that flushing would only help reduce farther damage. In my case since we use Archoil AR9100 in all of our engines I for sure would use it. If I suspected rod bearing, crankshaft, rings or piston damage after running the engine 200 miles with the AR9100 in the crankcase I would drain and run AR9300 (very expensive). If all was well after 5000 miles I would 'assume' all was well.

In short in this case where the engine was not driven with antifreeze in the motor oil I would do nothing more than bring it up to operating temps (10-20 miles) with required weigh of motor oil and a new filter and drain within a couple minutes after I shut it off then change the oil and filter and 'assume' all was well.

It seems it is circulating antifreeze that does the real damage. Only time will tell if there was enough damage to shorten the life of the engine. If it is a $30K-$50K engine then one may want to just do a rebuild but if a good used engine will only cost $500 then a very short OCI would be as far as my prevention would go most likely.
smile.gif


Best of luck with your engine.


Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
This is the best scientific source I have read as to how to remove antifreeze from a crankcase. Read the full article below and I will paste in the summary from the article.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/193/oil-glycol

Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines
A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:

1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.

2. Install new filter elements.

3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.

4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C).

5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.

7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.

8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.

9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize.


AW-32 sold in farm/auto stores. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...9&ppt=C0139

Butyl Cellosolve may be harder to find locally but I would check with NAPA class of suppliers. It is on Amazon and eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Butoxyethanol-...725.m3641.l6368
Yah, right way too much over kill for a gas engine. Especially in the OP's situation I wonder if the guy who wrote that ever worked on anything. That is CYA boilerplate.
grin2.gif
 
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