How to remove coolant from oil?

[Avery4]

I just got done changing the head gasket on my 2005 Civic. When it blew, the oil got about a cup of coolant in it. I am thinking drain the oil, pull the pan, clean and dry it, clean and dry the valve cover, at least dry the bottom end with a heat gun, maybe blow some brake cleaner and compressed air through the oil passages, pour some oil through the passages to remove any residual coolant or residue and do an engine flush with Amsoil engine flush. What to you think?

 

[old1]

Do a couple very short, 500 mile then 1000 mi oil and cheap filter changes, and don't give it another thought. Back in 1965 I changed the oil in my almost new 64 chevelle 230 6 cyl. and needed to add a little antifreeze for some reason. Dreaming I took off the oil fill cap and started to dump it in. (About a cup) OOOPS. So since I had just changed the oil I said aw, the heck with it and just drove it. Of course I changed it again in probably 1000 miles in those days, but no harm that I could see or tell. Course those engines wern't as complicated as todays. It did have those "new fangled" hydraulic valve lifters that they came up with about 10 or so years before.LOL

 

[raytseng]

Originally Posted By: Avery4
I just got done changing the head gasket on my 2005 Civic. When it blew, the oil got about a cup of coolant in it. I am thinking drain the oil, pull the pan, clean and dry it, clean and dry the valve cover, at least dry the bottom end with a heat gun, maybe blow some brake cleaner and compressed air through the oil passages, pour some oil through the passages to remove any residual coolant or residue and do an engine flush with Amsoil engine flush. What to you think?


The heck? I think you should just scrap your car and get a new one.

Just do a couple oil changes if you're paranoid. The oil will clean where the oil goes. Whatever you take apart you won't put back exactly the same way and fatigues all the parts you've touched.

Don't do the amsoil engine flush or the brakecleaner. Otherwise your obsessiveness will then switch to how do i remove the engine flush and brakecleaner residue.

 

[Donald]

Pull the engine, disassemble and hot tank it. When its clean enough to eat off of, reassemble and reinstall. No harm will have been done.

 

[Pontual]

If you didnt run it hot, the coolant will go to bottom of the sump without mixing with the oil. Just change the oil.

 

[Branson304]

Originally Posted By: old1
Do a couple very short, 500 mile then 1000 mi oil and cheap filter changes, and don't give it another thought.


I agree with this. All that work isn't necessary in my opinion.

 

[DrRoughneck]

How did you change the oil gasket without draining the oil?

 

[PandaBear]

Frequent oil change, then next time when you do oil pan gasket just scrape the junk off the oil pan.

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: Branson304
Originally Posted By: old1
Do a couple very short, 500 mile then 1000 mi oil and cheap filter changes, and don't give it another thought.


I agree with this. All that work isn't necessary in my opinion.


+1. Doing two short oil changes should do the trick.

 

[krismoriah72]

thats not much to worry about. Ive drained 2 gallons of coolant from a C15 caterpillar with a bad injector seal.

Install fresh oil. Run 5 mins. Let it sit for 10 mins, drain 1 pint into clean container. Pour into clean 2 liter plastic bottle. Install 1 pint of oil.

Run 10 mins, let sit for 10 mins..drain 1 quart into clean container. pour into clean 2 liter plastic bottle.. install 1 quart of oil.

Look at your two test bottles.. is there coolant on the bottom? if so keep repeating until you see no coolant.

When you see no coolant in your samples then your engine is free of coolant in the oil.

Now do a fresh oil and filter change and enjoy.

 

[demarpaint]

If you haven't started it, I'd let the engine sit w/o running it for a day, then drain the oil and re-fill. If you ran it, let it sit a day drain the oil and change the filter. Follow it up with 500 mile OCI.

 

[djb]

A second (third? fourth?) on the advice.

Just put in cheap oil, and change it after an hour or two of gentle operation.

Put the oil you drained into a translucent container. If there is any water or coolant in the oil, it will separate quickly. If you see any, plan on another short-interval change. Otherwise run the next oil fill for 1,000 to 2,000 miles.

You most likely won't see any residual coolant. With no new source, the few drops of water or glycol remaining will evaporate or sit undisturbed at the bottom of the pan. The oil changes are mostly to get rid of the additives.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Your first OCI should be no more than 10 hours or equivalent mileage given the coolant contamination.

Use an HDEO like Rotella. It's better equipped to deal with water contamination than a regular PCMO and will be all of the flush that you are going to need.

Obviously change the filter at the same time.

 

[ls1mike]

So I have to ask what do you think the dealership or any indy shop does when a head gasket blows?

I have had a bunch of turbo Dodges with blown head gaskets, some of them looked like chocolate milk. Fixed the gasket, drained the oil, filled and drove.

I have never had a problem. I think you are over thinking it.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike
So I have to ask what do you think the dealership or any indy shop does when a head gasket blows?

I have had a bunch of turbo Dodges with blown head gaskets, some of them looked like chocolate milk. Fixed the gasket, drained the oil, filled and drove.

I have never had a problem. I think you are over thinking it.



+1 This is exactly what they do. Do the job, change the oil and filter, refill and out the door. No problem.
Most of the residual oil in the engine is in valve train area of the head and is cleaned off anyway.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

 

[Nitronoise]

do acouple of short Oci'S SAY 2000 miles and you should be good to go

if you really got yo check , run the oilchanges , pull a sample and send it off to the lab of choice

 

[Robenstein]

let it sit, drain, and do two short OCI's as mentioned to "flush" it. I would just use cheap Supertech wal mart oil for the purpose. It is not bad stuff.

 

[spasm3]

I agree a short oci for a flush. Would an hdeo have more detergent as a flush oil?

 

[GaleHawkins]

This is the best scientific source I have read as to how to remove antifreeze from a crankcase. Read the full article below and I will paste in the summary from the article.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/193/oil-glycol

Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from Engines
A flushing procedure proposed by one major oil company to remove glycol from engine internal surfaces involves the use of Butoxy-Ethanol (trade name Butyl Cellosolve, Union Carbide). The flushing procedure for conditions of less than five percent glycol contamination is summarized below:

1. Drain oil from compartment and all lines and components.

2. Install new filter elements.

3. Mix an ISO VG 32 R&O mineral oil 50/50 with Butyl Cellosolve.

4. Use the mixture to turbulently flush (using an external pump installed at the turbocharger supply line or other suitable pumping method) internal surfaces by ample flow and volume for one hour at a temperature not less than 70°F (21°C).

5. Drain the system completely, mop out crankcase and replace filters.

6. Repeat steps 2 through 5, using a 60 percent R&O 32, 40 percent kerosene mixture.

7. Remove and inspect all main bearings, journals and other engine surfaces.

8. Remove the external pump and recharge with the correct lubricant. Replace the filter.

9. Monitor the engine carefully until all conditions stabilize.


AW-32 sold in farm/auto stores. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...9&ppt=C0139

Butyl Cellosolve may be harder to find locally but I would check with NAPA class of suppliers. It is on Amazon and eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Butoxyethanol-...725.m3641.l6368