Rotella T5 10W30 in my CR-V!

[racin4ds]

-8 this morning in the wonderful mountains of WV and guess what? my 03 CR-V started very easily and was very quiet this morning with 10W30 in the sump!! Can you believe it??

BTW- I'm running the T5 as part of a cleaning regimen to help with the oil control ring problem on this engine and to help slow consumption until its fixed. I normally run 5W30 in everything I own.

Sorry, had to poke a little fun at all the 0W thin oil crowd...

 

[Doog]

You will get better cleaning results with Pennzoil Platinum or Redline.

 

[racin4ds]

Yea but both of those are double the cost (Triple for Redline) and I'm dumping this OCI at 2500-3000 miles I put 500+ miles a week on this vehicle.

I do have a stock of some PP that I got on close out at AZ that I may use once I get the consumption slowed down.

 

[JHZR2]

Certainly can believe it. Just look at the definitions for pumping and flow specs for a 10w oil. Doesn't mean anything though. It flows slower, and takes more energy to pump when cold. So congratulations - you burned marginally more fuel and caused marginally higher wear in your engine. Hooray!

 

[Bzab32]

Yeah that is what i run in my diesel truck here in Wisconsin, we routinely in the negatives and it starts every time. Its not the oil im worried about at that temp its the diesel gelling. (yes i should plug in the block heater but sometimes I cant)

I would recommend though if your car burns oil not to use T5 as it can clog the cat, but it would have to burn a lot of oil.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

My 4.0L Jeep started (but cranked extremely slow) with Maxlife semisyn 10w-30 in in!

The slow crank and nothing to do with the oil, but the 16 year old very corroded battery cables.

 

[Rolla07]

So you think the thin crowd believes a 10w would be hard to start your car with at -8??! You can use 15w50 and it would probably start fine, not sure what it proves that it starts still...

Neither thick nor thin can be shown to cause issues and there are additional benefits to thin over thick. Better flow, mileage and car will heat up faster when cold..so the fact you chose thick....

 

[Silverado12]

I used this oil (Rotella T-5 10W-30) in my 2002 Cavalier as I got it free at the truckstop with my driver reward points. I have a magnetic drain plug and it's been cleaner than with any other oil I have ever used. I know this is not a scientific study but I would say this oil is safe to use year round at least in our climate here in Central Virginia. The owners manual says it's ok to use 10W-30 to -4F.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
-8 this morning in the wonderful mountains of WV and guess what? my 03 CR-V started very easily and was very quiet this morning with 10W30 in the sump!! Can you believe it??

BTW- I'm running the T5 as part of a cleaning regimen to help with the oil control ring problem on this engine and to help slow consumption until its fixed. I normally run 5W30 in everything I own.

Sorry, had to poke a little fun at all the 0W thin oil crowd...

You think -8F is cold?
Come park outside in the Whites on a weekend like this past one and we can START talking about cold. And, last weekend wasn't even really bad when you start looking at history.

 

[racin4ds]

Oh I'm not saying it was really cold at all... just poking fun at all the thin oil guys on here that think a 10W will demolish my engine on a cold start because Honda calls for 5W20 oil...

It just seems the vast majority of folks on here are all on the "thin" 0W or 20W is all you need bandwagon and they have conniption fits if someone uses a conventional 10W30 or 10W40.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Oh I'm not saying it was really cold at all... just poking fun at all the thin oil guys on here that think a 10W will demolish my engine on a cold start because Honda calls for 5W20 oil...

It just seems the vast majority of folks on here are all on the "thin" 0W or 20W is all you need bandwagon and they have conniption fits if someone uses a conventional 10W30 or 10W40.


I think I would be just fine with 10W, even in my fairly cold home location, as my car is typically garaged at night and it's just not usually THAT cold at work during the day.
It's the ski weekends that kill me. Have to park outside and -30F is not out of the question. I noticed that my FXT bucked and shuddered a lot less on really cold morning starts with M1 or QSUD 5W30 compared to whatever the Subaru dealer was using before I gave up on them and started doing my own. Both of those oils are pretty good at extreme cold by 5W30 standards.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Certainly can believe it. Just look at the definitions for pumping and flow specs for a 10w oil. Doesn't mean anything though. It flows slower, and takes more energy to pump when cold. So congratulations - you burned marginally more fuel and caused marginally higher wear in your engine. Hooray!


Agree with the infinitesimally smaller fuel increase, but can you elaborate on how it cause more wear (even infinitesimally ?)

It could be pumped, and pumped easily, so got where it needed to be pretty much exactly the same time.

Never pulled apart a dry engine, so the pistons, rings, and bearings had plenty of oil for that second or so (as opposed to the minutes for a poorly puumping oil like those in the Esso cold weather advertorials)

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
So you think the thin crowd believes a 10w would be hard to start your car with at -8??! You can use 15w50 and it would probably start fine, not sure what it proves that it starts still...


A common (and current) BITOG myth is that 0W does better at 100F starting temperatures.

 

[FutureDoc]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Oh I'm not saying it was really cold at all... just poking fun at all the thin oil guys on here that think a 10W will demolish my engine on a cold start because Honda calls for 5W20 oil...

It just seems the vast majority of folks on here are all on the "thin" 0W or 20W is all you need bandwagon and they have conniption fits if someone uses a conventional 10W30 or 10W40.


Thin oil IS all you need.

I use 0w20, 5w30, and even 10w30... actually I use Shell T5 10w40 too.

In engines that specify 0w20 or 5w20... it works. I have a few 150K+ engines with only 5w20 or thinner in their sumps.

In the beaters, they get what is cheap so if 10w40 T5 is $1.25 per quart, in it goes but that 10w40 was an approved weight for the engine (5w30 recommended). But hey, I never use oil to fix a mechanical defect.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Yea but both of those are double the cost (Triple for Redline) and I'm dumping this OCI at 2500-3000 miles I put 500+ miles a week on this vehicle.

I do have a stock of some PP that I got on close out at AZ that I may use once I get the consumption slowed down.


Run the PP to 5000. No need to dump at 3000....it's motor oil NOT engine flush. PP might do a little cleaning in 20-30,000 miles. My kid has a Civic that she got at 40k which had minimal oil changes. I started PP in it and 40k later it's clean inside from what I can tell. That's doing 5000 mile OCis. Not sure if any oil will fix an oil control ring issue though.

 

[Kool1]

How many mile are on your 03 CRV and how much oil is it consuming?

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: Doog
You will get better cleaning results with Pennzoil Platinum or Redline.


Have a look at your sig.

 

[dave1251]

10W30 QS conventional was used in my family's Astro with a 4.3 on many a cold winters day. It was not my preferred choice yet the engine outlasted the body and it was traded in because my father grew tired of driving a 11 year old minivan not because of engine failure.

There is plenty of oil snobs on here that tout marketing on labels not actual facts.

 

[BrocLuno]

10W-30 is thin oil in my neck of the woods

 

[racin4ds]

Originally Posted By: Kool1
How many mile are on your 03 CRV and how much oil is it consuming?


I purchased it with 130,000 and it is now right at 140,000 I've done the suggested piston soak through the plug holes with MMO/Seafoam mix and that helped alot! Went from about a qt every 500 miles to a qt every 1500miles. But that was with 5W30 in the sump.

I plan to do another piston soak and see how well the 10W30 stays in the sump. These engines were known for oil ring issues and consumption. I bought it very cheap because of that. Strange thing is, you don't see a hint of blue smoke from the exhaust! and it runs great!