Remove Gasoilne and other Blowby Gasses

[landtoy80]

Is there a bypass oil filter that will remove what ever the blowby gasses and gasoline does to my T6 oil on my gasoline motor Land Cruiser FZJ80? I know the motor is old and tired but is still strong and I am having to vent crankcase to atmosphere and it stinks to high heavens after a few thousand miles.

I remember listening to a trucker radio show and they said their filter removed water and other liquids that degrade the fuel. They claim extremely high miles without an oil change, they require you to send in oil samples though.

I am not looking to extend the drain interval. I was going 9000 mi but its getting nasty now at 5000 mi.

 

[KingCake]

Your crankcase should be under vacuum via the PCV system. This is what draws off the volatiles from the oil and burns them. Opening your crank to atmo is doing the opposite of what you want.

 

[landtoy80]

I have been experiencing over pressured crankcase for some time now and think I have a way to deal with it. Its going to be a custom setup where I use the factory PCV valve and use a breather with a one way valve on it to release any positive pressure in the crankcase.

The positive pressure in the crankcase makes my oil stink real bad. I dont have funds to order a breather yet but will just vent to atmosphere in the mean time. At least this way the gasses are not condensation in the crankcase like they have for several years now.

If a bypass filter can help keep the oil cleaner, I would assume that it would not stink as bad.

Just trying to keep the Land Cruiser alive so i can drive it till it doesn't go any more.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: KingCake
Your crankcase should be under vacuum via the PCV system. This is what draws off the volatiles from the oil and burns them. Opening your crank to atmo is doing the opposite of what you want.


if you have massive blowby there isnt much option.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have been experiencing over pressured crankcase for some time now and think I have a way to deal with it. Its going to be a custom setup where I use the factory PCV valve and use a breather with a one way valve on it to release any positive pressure in the crankcase.

The positive pressure in the crankcase makes my oil stink real bad. I dont have funds to order a breather yet but will just vent to atmosphere in the mean time. At least this way the gasses are not condensation in the crankcase like they have for several years now.

If a bypass filter can help keep the oil cleaner, I would assume that it would not stink as bad.

Just trying to keep the Land Cruiser alive so i can drive it till it doesn't go any more.


Your PCV valve is the check valve that releases positive pressure. You are ruining the fresh air side of the PCV system and stopping flow. Get an electric vacuum pump off a diesel or turbo car and run it to a catch can and then to the pcv. Ditch the breather.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Your crankcase should be under vacuum via the PCV system. This is what draws off the volatiles from the oil and burns them. Opening your crank to atmo is doing the opposite of what you want.


if you have massive blowby there isnt much option.


Step 1. Fix the freaking engine.

 

[landtoy80]

Guess I could go to a short oil change interval and use a dino oil. Oil didnt get degraded till about 3000 mi when there was pressure in the crankcase. I will see how long the oil lasts with it vented now.

 

[landtoy80]

No funds to fix. I am a starving oilfield worker. It is what it is till it dies.

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Your crankcase should be under vacuum via the PCV system. This is what draws off the volatiles from the oil and burns them. Opening your crank to atmo is doing the opposite of what you want.


if you have massive blowby there isnt much option.


Step 1. Fix the freaking engine.


I think you mean to say:

Let her go...i think you already drove it to its death.

 

[Gasbuggy]

I for one am fascinated with the idea of seeing how long something can last. That is why I hold onto my Accord even though it doesn't fit my life or status anymore. I say keep driving. Just because the oil smells doesn't mean it isn't protecting. Maybe look into a homemade catch can. I made one for my Accord for next to nothing with some fittings, hose, a metal water bottle, and some stainless mesh.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Originally Posted By: KingCake


Your PCV valve is the check valve that releases positive pressure. You are ruining the fresh air side of the PCV system and stopping flow. Get an electric vacuum pump off a diesel or turbo car and run it to a catch can and then to the pcv. Ditch the breather.


There is only so much volume of gases the PCV will flow before it is overwhelmed. Given the small size of most PCV valves, it's not hard for this to occur. An electric vacuum pump will deliver far more air than the PCV valve could handle.

The electric vacuum pump is a great idea. But the discharge from the catch can should either be fed into the exhaust or the air intake, so there is no stink.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have been experiencing over pressured crankcase for some time now and think I have a way to deal with it. Its going to be a custom setup where I use the factory PCV valve and use a breather with a one way valve on it to release any positive pressure in the crankcase.

The positive pressure in the crankcase makes my oil stink real bad. I dont have funds to order a breather yet but will just vent to atmosphere in the mean time. At least this way the gasses are not condensation in the crankcase like they have for several years now.

If a bypass filter can help keep the oil cleaner, I would assume that it would not stink as bad.

Just trying to keep the Land Cruiser alive so i can drive it till it doesn't go any more.


Do what I did with my Caprice:

Lincoln Mark VIII/Continental smog pump drawing suction on the crankcase. But you need a catch can plumbed in before the vacuum pump to protect it from oil ingestion. There is nothing liquid-proof about those vacuum pumps. If liquid gets into them, it will contaminate everything and leak all over the place.

They draw about 9" of vacuum on a mildly vented crankcase. This has the advantage of reducing ring flutter, and cylinder-to-cylinder pumping of air inside of the crankcase.

A lot of guys who run high-pressure turbocharged cars do this, because obviously a PCV system is completely useless under positive manifold pressure, and blowby increases incredibly under boost.

I've used this arrangement with the gases vented into the intake, and vented directly into the exhaust. Honestly, it doesn't seem to make a difference which way it is done. My Caprice has the discharge vented before the air filter, and the air filter has not gotten any dirtier or oilier as a result.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have been experiencing over pressured crankcase for some time now and think I have a way to deal with it. Its going to be a custom setup where I use the factory PCV valve and use a breather with a one way valve on it to release any positive pressure in the crankcase.

The positive pressure in the crankcase makes my oil stink real bad. I dont have funds to order a breather yet but will just vent to atmosphere in the mean time. At least this way the gasses are not condensation in the crankcase like they have for several years now.

If a bypass filter can help keep the oil cleaner, I would assume that it would not stink as bad.

Just trying to keep the Land Cruiser alive so i can drive it till it doesn't go any more.


Do what I did with my Caprice:

Lincoln Mark VIII/Continental smog pump drawing suction on the crankcase. But you need a catch can plumbed in before the vacuum pump to protect it from oil ingestion. There is nothing liquid-proof about those vacuum pumps. If liquid gets into them, it will contaminate everything and leak all over the place.

They draw about 9" of vacuum on a mildly vented crankcase. This has the advantage of reducing ring flutter, and cylinder-to-cylinder pumping of air inside of the crankcase.

A lot of guys who run high-pressure turbocharged cars do this, because obviously a PCV system is completely useless under positive manifold pressure, and blowby increases incredibly under boost.

I've used this arrangement with the gases vented into the intake, and vented directly into the exhaust. Honestly, it doesn't seem to make a difference which way it is done. My Caprice has the discharge vented before the air filter, and the air filter has not gotten any dirtier or oilier as a result.


Yep. But luckily today all (most) of the GDI cars and some hybrids use electric vac pumps and you can get them cheap salvage.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: landtoy80
Guess I could go to a short oil change interval and use a dino oil. Oil didnt get degraded till about 3000 mi when there was pressure in the crankcase. I will see how long the oil lasts with it vented now.


What do you mean by degraded? Did you do a UOA? Stinky/Black oil is fine as long as fuel dilution isn't thinning it too much. No way to tell this w/o UOA.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: KingCake


Your PCV valve is the check valve that releases positive pressure. You are ruining the fresh air side of the PCV system and stopping flow. Get an electric vacuum pump off a diesel or turbo car and run it to a catch can and then to the pcv. Ditch the breather.


There is only so much volume of gases the PCV will flow before it is overwhelmed. Given the small size of most PCV valves, it's not hard for this to occur. An electric vacuum pump will deliver far more air than the PCV valve could handle.

The electric vacuum pump is a great idea. But the discharge from the catch can should either be fed into the exhaust or the air intake, so there is no stink.


If the vac pump is ran full time then you could plumb it to both the pcv and the breather ports and dump it to intake like you mentioned. Or you can put a 1/2" NPT bung in a valve cover.

 

[Olas]

Vent to exhaust

No more oil smell, no flow-limited PCV valve, constant vacuum, everyone's a winner!

http://www.google.co.uk/search?sclient=t...663.9WAJN2Mgcrg

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: Olas
Vent to exhaust

No more oil smell, no flow-limited PCV valve, constant vacuum, everyone's a winner!

http://www.google.co.uk/search?sclient=t...663.9WAJN2Mgcrg


I would prefer vent to exhaust to avoid running foul air into my intake manifold. But since exhaust backpressure is higher than intake pressure, an electric pump would be necessary to force positive flow through the system.

Over many years of running, my Camaro got progressively more prone to detonation, and I finally figured out that it was carrying a lot of oil through the foul air line to the intake manifold. I decided to do a test by removing the foul air line and capped the vacuum port on the intake manifold, and ran the hose into a catch can. I first tried this at a track event, and checked the level of oil in the catch can after every session. It was catching about 4 ounces of oil. More importantly, it was reducing the detonation events, so I just left the setup on it for street use. I did three more track days last year using the setup, and the amount of oil that it was catching got less and less, indicating (I think) that the ring seal was becoming more effective. Oil consumption has reduced from 1 qt per 1000 miles to 1 qt per 2000 miles.

Yes, I know running the foul air line disconnected is wrong for flushing fresh air through the crankcase, and is probably degrading the oil more quickly, but on my high miles car, eliminating the oil from the combustion chamber makes it run much better. So now, maybe I'll try to rig up an electric pump to suck foul air from the crankcase, and push it into the exhaust.

 

[landtoy80]

Answer/reply's to comments:

-Oil Degraded? I believe the oil is getting degraded/diluted do to my oil consumption. It used 1 qt after 1800 mi, 1 qt after 1100 mi, 1 qt after 900 mi, 1 qt after 800 mi, 1 qt 900 mi and 1 qt after 700 mi.
Not sure sure how much is going out the PCV valve and how much is burned.

-Do the electric vacuum pumps GDI cars and hybrid run full time?
Looked into vacuum pumps from others cars and found that they run part time. The ones for racing are not meant to run all the time either. Most that need full time vacuum go with a belt driven vacuum pump.

-Vent to exhaust kits say they are for exhaust without a muffler.


The best (but not feasible for my motor) solution would be to run a belt driven vacuum pump. Doubt there is a kit for a 94 Land Cruiser.
Second would be an electric pump. That is, if there is one that can be run full time.

When I first hooked up a 3/8" hose to the vent port on the valve cover, I get a constant flow of air flowing out if it. Now that the crankcase and breath, I hope the oil seeping should stop, maybe the oil will last longer as gasses and fumes can flow out freely now. Prior to removing the PCV system, the crankcase was pressurized and was condensation trap with no where for the gasses to go so they turn back into a liquid, much like a pot of boiling water with a lid on it and only a tiny how to exhaust out.

I changed the oil last night. Drive 50 mi today with no smell at all. I bought a new PCV valve and hooked it up this after noon and left the vent port open to atmosphere to relieve excess pressure. Drove 50 more miles and no smell. Didn't check yet to see how much airflow there is from the vent hose now that the PCV valve is sucking out the crankcase. Do more testing tomorrow.

 

[landtoy80]

With the new PCV valve hooked up and a plastic bag on the vent port of the valve cover, I started the motor. The plastic bag filled up instantly at high idle. When motor dropped to normal idle the bag would fill up slowly but when I rev the motor it filled up instantly. This confirms that I have excess pressure in the crankcase.

Now that the excess blowby gasses can escape, hopefully the issues of pressure in the crankcase will be reduced. With fresh oil, there is no issue of stinky oil vapor. If oil vapor from fumes or oil coming out my breather vent hose becomes an issue I will make a vented catch can to collect the oil.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: KingCake


Your PCV valve is the check valve that releases positive pressure. You are ruining the fresh air side of the PCV system and stopping flow. Get an electric vacuum pump off a diesel or turbo car and run it to a catch can and then to the pcv. Ditch the breather.


There is only so much volume of gases the PCV will flow before it is overwhelmed. Given the small size of most PCV valves, it's not hard for this to occur. An electric vacuum pump will deliver far more air than the PCV valve could handle.

The electric vacuum pump is a great idea. But the discharge from the catch can should either be fed into the exhaust or the air intake, so there is no stink.


If the vac pump is ran full time then you could plumb it to both the pcv and the breather ports and dump it to intake like you mentioned. Or you can put a 1/2" NPT bung in a valve cover.


I usually eliminate the PCV, using that spot to suction the air with the vacuum pump, and then mildly restrict the original breather if it is very large, so a suction will be drawn on the crankcase.