2.3l duratec; practical oil and filter advice

[Jandry]

First post. I have an 02 Ranger with the 2.3l duratec I4 and an M5OD manual transmission (with 94000 miles), and as well I live in Austin TX. Its important to note for my following questions that the duratec in the Ranger does not have a balance shaft or VVT (so viscosity wont affect cam alignment).

Up until recently, Ive been happy with running a Motorcraft FL400S filter with Mobil 1 5w20 oil. 5w20 is whats stamped on the oil fill cap, and so I roll with it.

But I also believe oil should be chosen for the use and location of the vehicle. Austin can get brutal hot in the summer- often for weeks in the summer it will stay over 100 deg F. In the winter, it might get into the teens, but never below that. I live just north of Austin, right at the beginning of hill country- plenty of long climbs up hillsides, and this in 100+ weather. To top it all off- its a truck, not a car. I carry loads periodically (like motorcycles- no towing), and so the engine is placed under higher strains.

I do not intend to start a viscosity debate, but given the temperatures here and the use of the vehicle, would I be better served switching to 5w30 oil? I am torn since on the one hand I find it highly likely manufacturers might recommend 5w20 oil for reasons not in our best interest, while on the other I am not conceded enough to think I know better than the engineers who designed my engine. I think finally that towing a 500 pound motorcycle up a hillside in 100+ temp weather might be better suited to a 30 weight oil. My only concern is whether 5w30 will be too thick to reach all the tight clearances in this pretty modern engine.

Also, Ive recently read here about Purolator and now Motorcraft FL400S media tearing- so now I want to use something else. So basically, im looking for advice on filter selection as well. I do have a few musts: silicon valve, sufficient flow rate, and solid filtering efficiency (at least on par with the FL400S).

While ive avoided Fram like the plague, Ive heard that the Fram ultra uses a silicon valve and has like 99% @ 20 micron efficiency, though I havent been able to find flow rate information. Im unsure if this is wasteful though- I am one of those types that cant stay off the drain plug for over 5k. The FL400S was fine for this interval- but the Ultra seems to be a waste for a 5k interval. Any similar filters that more closely meet my needs and desired interval?

Basically my thought is this:
Mobil 1 5w30 with Fram Ultra filter unless you guys think otherwise.

Any advice?

 

[Bgallagher]

Mobil 1 and a fram ultra would make a great combo.

 

[CT8]

5W-20 oil is for no other than CAFE credits.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Mobil1 5w-30 and Fram Ultra should work fine for 10K miles.

But 5w-20 should also work well. I have no issue with running 0w-20 in my Focus and towing a camper.

 

[geekster]

I would use 5w30 and the Fram Ultra. Stick with the Mobil 1.

 

[mongo161]

IMO....if your engine internals are clean, you can leave the Fram Ultra, (along with any other EP oil Filter), on your engine for 2 or 2+, OCI's.

M1, Fram Ultra, NAPA Synthetic, Purolator Platinum....etc can be left on after you dump the sump. YMMV.....depending on the cleanliness of your oil and engine internals.

Using an EP oil filter can be a money saver.....definetly a labor and time saver.

 

[BrocLuno]

So I had an issued 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 work truck that I drove (only) from new. Went to auction with 253,000+ miles and still ran great and passed Smog tests (rolling road, under load).

AT 100K I switched to Delo400 15W-40 and moved up to a one quart filter. Can't remember the number right now, was a few years back ...

That truck saw thousands of miles of off-road in 4x4 in the desert south west in day time temps up to 124* going slow in the dust with the A/C on.

It was noisy with 5W-20 under load on the smog test (general rattles and thrashing coming from the motor - actually scary sounding). So that's why I switched up.

Had to get changes at Oil Stop (Chevron quick lube place). The Delo took all the noise away and I went from 1 qt/1K to a little over 1 qt per oil change (6K mandated).

They did not care what oil I used as long as it got changed when it was supposed to. Changed the filer every time. I let a few changes go long because I was out in the field w/o a nearby authorized service location. No harm, no foul.

Solid little truck and it went places that hard core Jeepers were bragging about (until I rolled up on their bon-fire in a lowly Ford Ranger)

Put a heavier oil in it and it'll live until you have to replace the drivers seat because it's worn through (been there, done that)...

 

[tig1]

Some of what you are saying is wrong.

1) All M1 oils, including 0-20 or 5-20 will stand up to Texas temps easily. All M1 oils will not start to breakdown until the oil temp is in the 470-490F range. Your engine will never get close to that. Remember 20 wt oil will give you slightly lower oil temps compared to 30 and especially 40 wt oils.

2) Use the MC FL 400 filter with no concern. Often what you see here is more about drama and hand ringing (OCD) that anything else.

3) Towing a 500 lb bike is nothing, does not require changing the wt. of the oil you use.

4) Car builders do not recommend 20 wt oils for their engines knowing that wt will shorten the life of the engine. There is no evidence of that, as Ford has been calling for 20 wt oils for at least 15 years with no provable evidence of engine problems based on oil viscosity.

My recommendation based on mine and many others here at BITOG is M1 0-20 or 5-20. A MC FL400 filter, and 10K OCIs.

 

[GaleHawkins]

Mobil clearly makes good products but functionally the 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic should give you equal quality engine life. Havoline I was told at the Ford dealer last week makes their motor oil currently.

That is a nice truck that should last many more years the way you care for it.

 

[Branson304]

Personally I would use Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 5W-30, but the Mobil 1 5W-30 or even Mobil 1 High Mileage would be great.

If your oil change intervals are under 10K miles, I recommend a FRAM Tough Guard. But the Ultra is the superior filter, it's just overkill in most applications. The Tough Guard is great though; 99% filtering effeciency, synthetic blend media & silicone anti-drainback valve.

 

[Branson304]

Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Mobil clearly makes good products but functionally the 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic should give you equal quality engine life. Havoline I was told at the Ford dealer last week makes their motor oil currently.

That is a nice truck that should last many more years the way you care for it.



Motorcraft motor oil is manufactured by ConocoPhillips.

 

[Diego3336]

The manuals for both the Ranger and the 06-09 Fusion with the Duratec23 engine calls for 5W30 oil here in Brazil where the temperatures can reach 100+ deg F in the summer in most parts of the country, so I guess it's safe to switch to this weight in your case.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
So I had an issued 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 work truck that I drove (only) from new. Went to auction with 253,000+ miles and still ran great and passed Smog tests (rolling road, under load).

AT 100K I switched to Delo400 15W-40 and moved up to a one quart filter. Can't remember the number right now, was a few years back ...

That truck saw thousands of miles of off-road in 4x4 in the desert south west in day time temps up to 124* going slow in the dust with the A/C on.

It was noisy with 5W-20 under load on the smog test (general rattles and thrashing coming from the motor - actually scary sounding). So that's why I switched up.

Had to get changes at Oil Stop (Chevron quick lube place). The Delo took all the noise away and I went from 1 qt/1K to a little over 1 qt per oil change (6K mandated).

They did not care what oil I used as long as it got changed when it was supposed to. Changed the filer every time. I let a few changes go long because I was out in the field w/o a nearby authorized service location. No harm, no foul.

Solid little truck and it went places that hard core Jeepers were bragging about (until I rolled up on their bon-fire in a lowly Ford Ranger)

Put a heavier oil in it and it'll live until you have to replace the drivers seat because it's worn through (been there, done that)...


Different engine, though.

 

[Jandry]

Seems like most of you think I should just stick with 5w-20, with a few opponents. Ill be honest that Ive hated putting in 5w-20 since Ive got it, but I try to keep an open mind that things change. I ran 5w-30 once before (during last summer) to run out my stores of oil (last vehicle used 5w-30)- it is not placebo that the engine was definitely quieter. For everyone's info, the duratec is great but notorious for being a noisy engine.

Originally Posted By: Diego3336
The manuals for both the Ranger and the 06-09 Fusion with the Duratec23 engine calls for 5W30 oil here in Brazil where the temperatures can reach 100+ deg F in the summer in most parts of the country, so I guess it's safe to switch to this weight in your case.

Wow, I didnt know that. I dont suppose you happen to know where these manuals are online? Ive looked and cannot find them.

Ive done research on filters and the only thing I dont like about the Fram Ultra is its dome end bypass. The duratec runs some really high oil pressure- it can eclipse 100psi when cold and that on 5w20 oil in moderate temperatures. This suggests two things: 1) I prolly really should stick with 5w20 so the bypass isnt constantly kicking in, and 2) I should probably stick with a filter that has a thread end bypass.

As far as I can tell, the only filters with thread end bypass and a silicon drainback valve are Motorcraft and Wix. From what I see around here, wix filters (the Napa variety) arent rated as high in filtering efficiency as the Motorcraft variants, much less super filters like the Fram Ultra.

Really wish purolator/motorcraft wasnt having this tearing issue. I was perfectly fine with motorcraft filters before now. Perhaps some are being OCD or whatever (as one poster above mentioned), but I mean- a hole in the filter media is still a hole right? They cant be wrong that allowing oil to pass through unfiltered is a bad thing.

Being new to this, im confused about one thing: I know 5w is the rating of the oil when cold. Some guys in really cold climates use 0w-xx even to make starting easier and to get oil where its needed quicker. I also know that the second number (xx-20 or xx-30, etc) refers to the viscosity when the engine is warmer. What I dont understand: the oil becomes thinner as it warms, so how can 20 or 30 be the case when in its 5w state its thicker?

If I infer correctly, using a 5w-30 oil wouldnt actually cause anymore bypass events? Its the same viscosity when cold (both 5w), and when it warms up, oil pressure should go down anyways. Am I right here?

Thanks for all the replies- didnt expect ~400 views and 12 replies by the time I returned

 

[BrocLuno]

The way around the by-pass is to have more filter area. The by-pass opens based on pressure differential across the media. More media area means less resistance, less pressure drop. Fit the biggest filter that will physically fit on the gasket face and the nipple thread with appropriate by-pass specs. Wix or Baldwin if looking for really good built-in vales Napa Gold same as WIX....

 

[Oregoonian]

I have an 03' Ford Focus....with a 2.3 Duratec engine (believe its the same engine thats in your Ranger).

I've been feeding it an 0w20 for several years now (M-1, but recently switched to QSUD 0w20). I live in Central Oregon where our weather is in the 80's and 90's in summer and very dry..... and can be from 0 to the 20's in the winter with snow. Elevation is about 3600 feet.

I felt my 2.3 was very noisey and decided to change over to QSUD 0w20...which quieted my 2.3 down alot and my vehicle ran smoother as well.. This oil has about three times the Moly over other major brand oil (M-1, PP), which I attribute to quieting down my engine. I use a Fram Ultra filter with an OCI of 7500, and use the filter over two OC's (2×7500=15000).

If I were you I would use either 0w20 or 5w20 and a Fram Tough Guard filter for 5K to 6K OCI's.

 

[Diego3336]

Originally Posted By: Jandry
Wow, I didnt know that. I dont suppose you happen to know where these manuals are online? Ive looked and cannot find them.


I found this one from the Ranger MY2010: http://manualproprietario.blogspot.com.br/2014/03/ford-ranger-2010.html

The front-end is slightly different than the US model but the engine is the same Duratec 2.3 16V. The manual above is in Portuguese and it isn't in PDF, but I sorted the parts that might interest you:

The Motorcraft 5W30 here used to be the same as the Castrol Magnatec A5 full synthetic, but now it's being made by Mobil and is believed to be a Mobil Super full synthetic. The OCI recommended by this manual is 10.000km (6.200 miles) or 6 months.

 

[Jandry]

Just wanted to personally thank you for the time taken to find and post this. I apologize ive been really busy the last few days.

Im going to try some 5w-30 oil based on that manual. Im hoping that the slightly higher viscosity will eliminate a timing cover seep I have (its impractical to pull the timing cover on a duratec since the engine needs to be retimed), and maybe also hopefully quiet down the noise these engines are known for. I havent decided whether Ill get the QSUD for the moly or maybe try synpower since its on sale, fits my interval (its a short drain oil), and is supposedly fantastic for wear metals.

In terms of the filter, I think Im going to grit my teeth and keep going motorcraft fl400s. The big thing that gets me is the bypass settings of the filters. Most other filters I can find run under 20psi bypass, while the motorcraft one is rated 20psi. Given the running of 5w-30, I dont want the bypass tripping too often. Im mildly concerned about media waviness with 5w-30, but given my climate especially heading into summer I dont think it will be an issue.

The kinesmatic (sp?) viscosity of 5w-30 stone cold here in Austin is lower than the KV of 5w-20 in a colder climate, and thats why I think they specced 5w-30 for Brazil. Oil pressure should remain pretty close to the same.

I go back and forth

 

[mark pruett]

Originally Posted By: Jandry
In terms of the filter, I think Im going to grit my teeth and keep going motorcraft fl400s. The big thing that gets me is the bypass settings of the filters. Most other filters I can find run under 20psi bypass, while the motorcraft one is rated 20psi. Given the running of 5w-30, I dont want the bypass tripping too often. Im mildly concerned about media waviness with 5w-30, but given my climate especially heading into summer I dont think it will be an issue.


Don't sweat the filter; I ran FL-400s filters for about 175,000 miles on a 95 Ranger (bought with 55k miles), and even when I sold it with 230k, it didn't burn any oil over a 5k OCI.

Those are solid filters, and will do just fine. (I'm from Dallas FWIW, so colder in the winter, and just as hot in the summer as Austin).

 

[Diego3336]

I don't think you'll have any problem with tear and media waviness on short OCIs, to be honest.

The 5W30 oil isn't that heavier than 5W20 and I think this filter is available since the days when 5W30 oils were the 'norm' too, so I guess they will work fine, as Mark Pruett said on the post above mine.