Paint correction

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Is a polish what you use to correct paint? Usually used with a dual action random orbital?


I ask, because my car always look good and sometimes even spectacular.......until, the sun is beaming down on the paint or I am under 'revealing' lights at night.


Other than that, most angles and most distances it looks great.



I was in the dealer ship a while back and saw a blue car and study it from several angles and noticed there was ver little marring of the paint. It was pretty cool to see what professionals and cared for new cars can look like.
 
Ditto on the PC 7424XP. If the car looks good most of the time you can probably get away with a one step like HD Speed. Several folks on here, including me, like it.
 
I really recommend the Griots Garage DA. I bought one several years ago and had very good luck with it. For an entry level machine it has lots of power.

This is after just one "pass" of Poorboy's SSR1 on a Blue Foam pad. It's a very fine compound.

Before:



After:

 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Nice work Delta!


Thanks! It's super simple to use and easy to get good results. Patience and a good eye will net you a great looking job for not much money. Always start with the least aggressive polish.
 
I agree with the Griot's machine over the PC 7424. Buy the long cord model. It's stronger, has a better warranty (lifetime) and is simply a better machine. I have both along with an old Cyclo.
 
check out autogeek.net for detailing supplies and autogeek also has a forum for detailing.

I forget the forum's site off hand.

Check them both out. their forum has a lot of info and they are happy to answer questions.

they prob have a sale going on for president's day weekend

Basic Paint Correction goes something like this:

* Wash
* Wipe Down with Isoprophyl Alcohol
* Clay Bar
* Examine paint surfaces and determine needs
* Polish
* (use light compound only after polishing does not correct defect in areas to your expectation/acceptance)
* Wax/Sealant

Use the two-bucket wash method.

Dont use same wash mit/brush on paint that you use on wheels/tires/very dirty areas.

Use quality MF towels to dry/apply/buff and wash them separately from regular towels (dont use fabric softener and use Woolite in washing machine)

Meg's Mirror Glaze line is great.

Check out the following:

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish

Meguiars #105 Ultra Cut Compound

Meguiars #205 Ultra Cut Finishing Polish

Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax Liquid

Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner (Concentrate)

Meguiars D170 Hyper Dressing (Concentrate)

Meguiars D156 Synthetic X-press Spray Wax

Optimum "No Rinse" Concentrate (I use this as a quick detailer, clay bar lubricant, and I spray on a rinsed vehicle before drying to reduce water spot)

Tutorial on how to use M105/M205 to correct paint.

M105/M205 write up from detailed image website

Good luck
 
Islandvic,

I got booed off Autopia about the time I became a member on Bob.


I asked is Dawn better than nothing, they went berserk.

I simply meant, using proper materials, so as not to introduce marring and scratching, would the paint be better left alone OR would washing with dawn, thereby removing the dirt be better? I didnt know if Dawn would 'weaken' the paint and make it fade or make it more susceptible to peeling, fading, etc.


Basically, is a clean car better than a untouched car? I dont use dawn, maybe they thought I did. I was just wondering would removing dirt without using a car soap to be gentle and nourish the oils in the paint be worse than just leaving it alone.
 
Islandvic, I recently started using microfibers to dry the vehicle AND I used a claybar for the first time last year-all thanks to Those here at Bob. I have some over the counter polish and some 3M scrstch remover I found in a garage. I have my eye on some 3M Imperial glaze that a few stores have around town, but havent bought it yet. I am basically trying to do the best I can without power tools. I even have a touch up paint kit but am in no way a body man who can correct paint or fix dents, sand, prime and lay down new paint.

I try to keep what I have a long time. So, if it is just a little better each time, I am happy. But here is the kicker......if I wash/wax a car once and it doesnt get touched again for say 10-20 years....I want it to be in better condition than if it was never touched. I do NOT want to introduce swirls and what-not....and more importantly do not want to make it plastic (where it looks great for a few months then begins to deteriorate and is worse, in the long run, than having never 'messed with it'......dont damage the gain in the long run for short term ' benefits'!

Also, Islandvic.

I am trying to get better. Maybe I'll actually use the two bucket AND have a waist-high and a waist-low mitt all in the same go.


I usually use an old sponge on the areas behind the wheel, lower doors where alot of the hard dirt gets picked up, then use a newer mitt/sponge on the higher, more seen, horizontal surfaces and those that really catch the eye.

But I dont usually use two mitts AND two buckets at the same time. Also, I dont consider myself to let the car get so dirty that a two bucket would be a good idea. All the same, if. Just get a neglected car or am helping someone with a real dirty ride, I try to wash and dry it twice- then put down wax!


Good day all!

Gudentach
 
Learn how to use a rotary buffer w/o burning the paint. Put masking tape over sharp body lines and edges and keep the buffer moving. I never had good luck with a D/A because it doesn't do much and takes too long. IMO a D/A buffer is for light work.
 
I use a rotary as my main tool for both compounding and polishing, that being said, I can get exactly the same results with the 7424 or better yet the Griots ROP (i do have an older griots which i prefer to the newer model) it will just take a little longer and is MUCH more amateur friendly. If it were me, I'd go Griots ROP all the way or the harbor freight DA if you can get it on a discount.
 
nothing wrong using Dawn soap before polishing or waxing. Strips everything off the paint. But also removes any protection from wax or sealant that had been previously applied.

Ha, I haven't frequented detailing forums for awhile, prob a bunch of jerk teenagers mostly. Forums are meant to inform and educate, not be rude like how you describe. That's why I like BITOG. That kind of nonsense isn't tolerated here.

Break down and get a second bucket. Even when my truck or wife's SUV isn't that dirty, I still use that method when washing.

Keep the mit for paint and get a wooden broom handle and very soft scrub brush from Home Depot or Lowes. Use the wash brush on your roof, windows, front and rear bumpers, then wheels/tires.

You don't need DA buffer to get good results. Just use what you have or get that 3M glaze you were looking at.

Clay paint again and apply that polish or glaze by hand.

Anything you do will always make the vehicle look better than doing nothing at all.
 
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