Electic motor lube oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Z

Ztill

Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Manitoba Canada
So what do you use?
I need to lube two electic motors with brass bushings in my heat recovery ventilator . They ask for non detergent oil and they run in a verticle attitude so the oil needs to be of a higher viscosity than 3 in1 oil. My old standby was left over 5w -40 syn. from my VW changes, but that's not the spec here. Whats the options?
 
Usually 10 weight is what is used, but slightly thicker would fall out less quickly. Never saw oilers on a vertically mounted motor-do the caps stick straight out sideways? Or are they pointing up?
 
Why 3in1? Well that s what my Dad use for light lube around the house.
The spec. from an electic motor site called for removing the motors from their operating position and giving each bushing ( with oil packing ) 5 drops of oil for each year of operation, then letting them stand lube ports up for half an hour then reinstalling.
However this still does not tell me what oil to use and I have at least a hundred gallons of various oils here on the farm, but I would like to use the best option. These two motors are worth in the $375.00 range plus installation so I makes sense to do it right the first time and every year after that.
 
I've seen 3-in-1 branded electric motor oil in a Lowe's. I was curious, and it said it was SAE 20 for electric motors.
 
Just Dont ever use penetrants. If a solvent goes to the wiring the varnish around the copper will break and youll need to rewind it...
 
Originally Posted By: Ztill
However this still does not tell me what oil to use


I already did; see link in first post.
 
I have used (ISO 32, 10W) hydraulic jack oil in 50-60 year old box fan motors for 30 years or so without issue. It is a mineral oil with antiwear and antirust additives but no detergent. Probably the same as non-detergent 3 in 1. I get a 45 second spin down time on these old motors on shut down.

They also make ISO 46, 20W hydraulic jack oil. At about $6/quart it is a lifetime supply.

I don't have experience with anything else.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Ztill
However this still does not tell me what oil to use


I already did; see link in first post.


I use 3in one quite often, a good product. Is 20 weight heavy enough for the verticle running position? Would a quality Hyd. oil be heavier? I guess the enquiring part of me just wants to have a few good options and a beter understanding.
 
Originally Posted By: Ztill
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Ztill
However this still does not tell me what oil to use


I already did; see link in first post.


I use 3in one quite often, a good product. Is 20 weight heavy enough for the verticle running position? Would a quality Hyd. oil be heavier? I guess the enquiring part of me just wants to have a few good options and a beter understanding.


I get the feeling that you're conflating 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil and 3-IN-ONE Motor Oil.

You do realize they're two different products, right?
 
Originally Posted By: Ztill
So what do you use?
I need to lube two electic motors with brass bushings in my heat recovery ventilator . They ask for non detergent oil and they run in a verticle attitude so the oil needs to be of a higher viscosity than 3 in1 oil. My old standby was left over 5w -40 syn. from my VW changes, but that's not the spec here. Whats the options?


Originally Posted By: Ztill
I use 3in one quite often, a good product. Is 20 weight heavy enough for the verticle running position? Would a quality Hyd. oil be heavier? I guess the enquiring part of me just wants to have a few good options and a beter understanding.




I am with you in looking out for higher viscosity oil than 'market' ones .....the higher the viscosity grades, the better for your application ....

Since most modern motor oils come with detergents, you may look into non-detergent industrial oils or ......

http://petroleumservicecompany.com/iso-vg-150-non-detergent-oils.html

JMO
blush.gif
 
Red can 3 in one - electric motors
Blue can 3 in one- g/p oil

Got it
Looking at other sources it seems 3 in one is a favorite. Then I found a Fan Collectors site and this was the first part of thier lube treatise.
HISTORY OF FAN LUBRICANTS

The lubricants originally used in antique fans and other machinery are composed of rendered animal fats otherwise known as triglycerides. These lubricants are made by boiling raw animal flesh until the pure fat separates. The molecular structure of these early lubricants resembles strings of spaghetti tied together at one end. Electric fan motors operate at high speeds and generate heat in normal operation. Rendered lubricants would naturally attract oxygen free radicals leading to rapid oxidation and breakdown under heat and load conditions. Many electric fans suffer from worn bearings, gears and shafts due to the poor lubricating characteristics of the early lubricants as well as owner neglect.

Refined oils were a great improvement over rendered animal fats although the tendency for refined oils to form grease deposits under heat and oxygen exposure did not improve much. The molecular structure of refined oils resemble long stands of spaghetti. As the rotating parts of a fan move, these strands become increasingly tangled as the lubricant molecules are in rapid random motion thus producing heat. The increasing heat causes faster breakdown of the lubricant and premature wear on the components.

Refined oils have poor viscosity consistency. The motion of the gears or other parts "stirs" the lubricants and thins the viscosity. This phenomena is known as Non - Newtonian Rheology. An attempted solution for poor viscosity used to be to simply use a heavier lubricant. However, this would create additional work for the motor, increasing drag and wear at startup. These are certainly undesired effects in an old fan. Refined lubricants are plentiful, cheap and a far better choice than rendered lubricants.

Synthetic lubricants, such as RP are the best choice for fans or other fine machinery. Synthetics are artificially constructed so they do not oxidize readily. The molecular structure resembles small spheres and are designed not to tangle. Less heat is generated resulting in slower oxidation and breakdown. High grade 100 % synthetic lubricants like Royal Purple operate well in continuous high heat situations and have a greater shear strength. This is an important consideration when a fan has expensive to reproduce gears. Synthetic lubricants have properties that are designed to transfer heat faster and enhance molecular bonding to the surfaces of parts and thus lessen initial start up wear. Start up is when most wear occurs between moving parts.
 
Originally Posted By: Ztill
Red can 3 in one - electric motors
Blue can 3 in one- g/p oil

Got it


You don't "got it".

Try again.
 
Well Rambelljam I stand corrected, upon going back to the 3in one site it is the blue label that is for electric motors
dark, black? Label that is general purpose

Thank you for correcting me. I have only ever used the "electric" 3 in one. I am entirely straightened out now or am I ?
 
What about Mobil Polyrex EM, Electric Motor Grease?
Viscosity @ 40C: 115, Viscosity @ 100C: 12.2
Application: Electric Motor Bearings, Fin Fan Bearings, High Temperature Pump Bearings, Factory Filled, Sealed for Life Ball Bearings, Ball or Roller Bearings

or lighter
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil
Blend of synthetic PAO oil, Mineral oil, PTFE.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
valvetrain issues; cam/lifter replacement; 1978 454 truck motor
Replies
14
Views
2K
PontiacHO
R
What kind of lube to use on hedge trimmer blades?
Replies
19
Views
1K
Allaneddie
N
Best value on Full Syn motor oil
2 3
Replies
52
Views
5K
FlyingTexan
dehv
Refrigeration Oils (Home/Commercial) What makes them so special/expensive?
Replies
17
Views
961
Billy_D
S
Motor Oil For Vintage Air Cooled Triumph Motorcycle?
2
Replies
25
Views
5K
rmueller23
Back
Top