1mzfe owners
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Originally Posted By: tig1
My grandson has a 2002 Camry with that engine. Uses M1 5-30 at 10K OCIs. Works well for him.
Just to be clear though, the 2002 model year is after the affected engines.
My grandson has a 2002 Camry with that engine. Uses M1 5-30 at 10K OCIs. Works well for him.
Just to be clear though, the 2002 model year is after the affected engines.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Consider a high mileage synthetic, like M1HM or Maxlife synthetic or the new PPHM
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Consider a high mileage synthetic, like M1HM or Maxlife synthetic or the new PPHM
I have to agree, taking the IM off to do VC gaskets and plugs, etc. is not that bad. I did it for the first time last month. It was very straightforward and there's good documentation online to help if you need it. The VC bolts on these are a little funky with one-time use odd-ball compression washers, so check into that issue if you go that route.
I run 10w-30 synthetic in ours (2002) for the reasons Kschan mentioned above; I use either PP or M1 HM depending upon the rebates of the moment.
The M1 HM seems to use less oil than the PP. I go 7,500 and the oil is a golden brown and needs no make-up in between, and this is at just over 250k miles.
I run 10w-30 synthetic in ours (2002) for the reasons Kschan mentioned above; I use either PP or M1 HM depending upon the rebates of the moment.
What yr is the car? Around 2001 they changed the valve cover and pcv valve from plastic to metal.
The later version is less prone to sludge.
I use motomaster syn or pp 5w30(gotten as cheap as possible) with 5k oci. It is known to shear oil, but the climate here is not ideal for a heavier oil. Instead, I just like to be safe and change it on time.
Just get the cheapest synthetic and it should do fine for a reasonable oci.
The later version is less prone to sludge.
I use motomaster syn or pp 5w30(gotten as cheap as possible) with 5k oci. It is known to shear oil, but the climate here is not ideal for a heavier oil. Instead, I just like to be safe and change it on time.
Just get the cheapest synthetic and it should do fine for a reasonable oci.
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Wonder how well M1 HM is at keeping engines clean?
Jake: how about super tech syn or MaxLife blend?
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Jake777
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Consider a high mileage synthetic, like M1HM or Maxlife synthetic or the new PPHM
Yep the HM synthetics are a good option.
Also, I've purchased some second hand cars that were (probably) run on conventional their whole life, but they all ended up on full synthetic oil without problem. I usually "eased" them onto full synthetic, by running one or two OCI with a semi-synthetic. I don't know if I needed to do this, but there is no problem with running a good synblend oil anyway.
I believe Valvoline has a MaxLife semi-synthetic in 5W-30 and 10W-30. These have a good rep. and are worth a try. If they work well for you, then you can try the valvoline full synthetics in 5W-30 or 10W-30 at a later stage. You can get full synthetic MaxLife.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Consider a high mileage synthetic, like M1HM or Maxlife synthetic or the new PPHM
Yep the HM synthetics are a good option.
Also, I've purchased some second hand cars that were (probably) run on conventional their whole life, but they all ended up on full synthetic oil without problem. I usually "eased" them onto full synthetic, by running one or two OCI with a semi-synthetic. I don't know if I needed to do this, but there is no problem with running a good synblend oil anyway.
I believe Valvoline has a MaxLife semi-synthetic in 5W-30 and 10W-30. These have a good rep. and are worth a try. If they work well for you, then you can try the valvoline full synthetics in 5W-30 or 10W-30 at a later stage. You can get full synthetic MaxLife.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Then do Pennzoil syn blend at Walmart for $17 or run PYB 4000 miles.
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Then do Pennzoil syn blend at Walmart for $17 or run PYB 4000 miles.
Maxlife blend is cheap and great for the 1mzfe (recently $15 at wallyworld for 5 quarts). I ran Maxlife 5w30 for 10 years at 3k/6mo, and my 98 Avalon ran like a top. I now run PP HM synthetic with no problems, and it runs great on that too.
We run whatever brand-name dino is on sale at 5k intervals. The engine now has over 240k miles, and it's a 1997 so one of the "affected" models.
I just pulled the valve cover on my recently acquired 99, Was clean of sludge, just minor buildup from non synth Im surmising.
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