Which oil?

[SEMI_287]

I'm facing a problem only a BITOG'er would face. The 300C takes 7 quarts of oil. I purchased an extended 24 month warranty where I have to change my oil every 5k miles. The owners manual says 6k is max under factory warranty anyways. I know using synthetic that short of a drain is a waste. BUT, my brother works at Napa. I can get 7 quarts of 0/5w20 Napa synthetic for $25 plus filter. On the other hand I can get 7 quarts Napa conventional for $18. At Wally I can get QS green bottle and MS5k just a few dollars more. QSGB has IMPRESSIVE specs for "dino" oil. As does PYB. Normally I'd throw in M1 AFE 0w20 and run it 10k but you know, it would void the warranty. Can anyone help my friggin' oil problem???

 

[CT8]

What will you gain by running syn oil for only 5,000 miles as compared to conventional at 5,000 miles remembering todays "conventional" oils aren't like the 1970s oils most people compare syn oils to. I would do what costs less.

 

[umungus1122]

7qts. for 5k miles? conventional

 

[spasm3]

pyb for 5k

 

[Nick1994]

Difference of $7? Get the synthetic.

 

[Doublehaul]

$7 buys a six pack...get conventional It protects just as well..

 

[901Memphis]

Get the Napa synthetic it's a no brainer from my perspective due to your cost connection. The synthetics not only flow better but usually have a premium additive package to go with it.

 

[69GTX]

Synthetics are typically on sale for $3.50-$4/qt throughout the year. AAP does QSUD for $20 including a cheap filter a few times a year. Toss in the M1 or Sopus rebates and you can get M1, PP, or QSUD for $3/qt. Napa synthetic at $3.57/qt is pretty darn good. Napa sells that for around $3.50 on sale during the year. So you're good enough already.

With the very cold upstate NY winters I'd rather use a synthetic for better low temp operation. That $7 is better spent on your engine than on a 6 pack.

 

[SEMI_287]

I was thinking about the Napa syn. The 5w20 is dexos approved. It does get below zero at night this far north. But then again with such a large sump a quality oil would work. Jeeeez.

 

[Branson304]

I vote for the NAPA synthetic.

 

[Pontual]

Vidcosity of 6 to 9 cst? Syn, of couse.

 

[SR5]

The dexos napa synthetic

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The synthetics not only flow better


Not familiar with the area, but what sort of temperatures are we talking for the OP ?

-30F ?

edit, saw a couple of posts up that below 0F is occasional...they don't "flow" any difference in the engine.

 

[bbhero]

Depending on how far upstate NY... -20°C to -30°C is very possible and downright likely in fact. Lake Placid can get extremely cold along with just east and north of there. I bet last winter it got down to -30°C/-22°F last winter. I saw forecast low temps in Vermont just east of these places with low temps 20 below.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Synthetics are typically on sale for $3.50-$4/qt throughout the year. AAP does QSUD for $20 including a cheap filter a few times a year. Toss in the M1 or Sopus rebates and you can get M1, PP, or QSUD for $3/qt. Napa synthetic at $3.57/qt is pretty darn good. Napa sells that for around $3.50 on sale during the year. So you're good enough already.

With the very cold upstate NY winters I'd rather use a synthetic for better low temp operation. That $7 is better spent on your engine than on a 6 pack.
+1

 

[HerrStig]

Engines are cheap, oil is expensive.

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: SR5
The dexos napa synthetic


+ one more ...

 

[barryh]

Whatever oil you choose instead of worrying about the price how about putting in a little less oil. What's the difference between max and min on the dipstick - must be at least 1 quart on a 7 quart sump. If I'm doing low mileage OCI's and the engine isn't an oil burner then I see no need to fill to max on the dipstick. I aim to be somewhere between min and half way. Besides saving some oil it then warms up quicker which happens to be something I need. I'm not sure at what mileage additive depletion would render this strategy inadvisable but 5000 miles on synthetic oil seems reasonable.

 

[GaleHawkins]

Originally Posted By: barryh
Whatever oil you choose instead of worrying about the price how about putting in a little less oil. What's the difference between max and min on the dipstick - must be at least 1 quart on a 7 quart sump. If I'm doing low mileage OCI's and the engine isn't an oil burner then I see no need to fill to max on the dipstick. I aim to be somewhere between min and half way. Besides saving some oil it then warms up quicker which happens to be something I need. I'm not sure at what mileage additive depletion would render this strategy inadvisable but 5000 miles on synthetic oil seems reasonable.


Barry that is an interesting view.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted By: SEMI_287
I'm facing a problem only a BITOG'er would face. The 300C takes 7 quarts of oil. I purchased an extended 24 month warranty where I have to change my oil every 5k miles. The owners manual says 6k is max under factory warranty anyways. I know using synthetic that short of a drain is a waste. BUT, my brother works at Napa. I can get 7 quarts of 0/5w20 Napa synthetic for $25 plus filter. On the other hand I can get 7 quarts Napa conventional for $18. At Wally I can get QS green bottle and MS5k just a few dollars more. QSGB has IMPRESSIVE specs for "dino" oil. As does PYB. Normally I'd throw in M1 AFE 0w20 and run it 10k but you know, it would void the warranty. Can anyone help my friggin' oil problem???

I cannot believe I just read this!