Struggling with 2003 Camry update

[Astro14]

KitaCam - that's why I haven't tried to help. Even Joseph (AKA GHT ...among other pseudonyms) at least tried to read, understand, and internalize the advice in those threads.

But reading through this and other Engineer20 (E20) threads, there is zero return on the investment of anyone's keystrokes. He asks incessant questions in a stream of unorganized consciousness.

Actually understanding, or attempting to understand, what was said in response to his questions would be a courtesy to those who post.

An even greater courtesy would be the organization, or attempted organization, of his questions, some semblance of grammar, and an attempt to spell-check his posts.

But they're incredibly difficult to read - with lengthy run-on sentences, a complete lack of punctuation, no clear subject/objective, no capitalization, nothing that would help the reader understand E20s questions or concerns.

E20 - if you don't respect my time enough to try, just try, and communicate clearly, why should I bother to answer you? I don't exist to serve you. I'll help you, but not at the cost of trying to wade through your drivel, and not if I think you're simply not listening.

I'll put this simply: people here want to help. You, E20, drive them away.

I think the only people left posting in this thread are either completely frustrated (like you KitaCam) or are simply having a laugh at E20s willful ignorance.

Sadly, there are people sharing the road with this DIY, death-trap 2003 Camry, and its evil twin, the 2009 Ford with no brakes, that have been butchered by E20s bungling.

 

[mclasser]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
KitaCam - that's why I haven't tried to help. Even Joseph (AKA GHT ...among other pseudonyms) at least tried to read, understand, and internalize the advice in those threads.

But reading through this and other Engineer20 (E20) threads, there is zero return on the investment of anyone's keystrokes. He asks incessant questions in a stream of unorganized consciousness.

Actually understanding, or attempting to understand, what was said in response to his questions would be a courtesy to those who post.

An even greater courtesy would be the organization, or attempted organization, of his questions, some semblance of grammar, and an attempt to spell-check his posts.

But they're incredibly difficult to read - with lengthy run-on sentences, a complete lack of punctuation, no clear subject/objective, no capitalization, nothing that would help the reader understand E20s questions or concerns.

E20 - if you don't respect my time enough to try, just try, and communicate clearly, why should I bother to answer you? I don't exist to serve you. I'll help you, but not at the cost of trying to wade through your drivel, and not if I think you're simply not listening.

I'll put this simply: people here want to help. You, E20, drive them away.

I think the only people left posting in this thread are either completely frustrated (like you KitaCam) or are simply having a laugh at E20s willful ignorance.

Sadly, there are people sharing the road with this DIY, death-trap 2003 Camry, and its evil twin, the 2009 Ford with no brakes, that have been butchered by E20s bungling.

/thread

 

[engineer20]

https://youtu.be/VXx0oXyEq2k

is this an ok way to press the wheel bearing?

The taurus is fine, installed new caliper, works fine, no leaks, the reman facility couldn't/didn't do the right job, i just gave up with them, truned that in as a core, and used the new caliper and bled my brakes (again) and now it's fine

the camry is also ok, remember, i repeated that I redid the ball joint. I asked about that tool beacuse I'm going to have to remove it again and wondered if a pitman will tear the boot or not, the current ball joints do NOT have torn boots, I tore the oem one, which I threw away

the new issue is a wheel bearing (start with the left first, if that doesn't solve it, do the right) and the stabilizer links

then, the timing chain cover leak, and that trans case leak (minor), and maybe the muffler/exhaust system soon as I hear it's rattling when it's idling when i'm outside

 

[engineer20]

and 10k can buy a decent used car, new cars depreciate quickly, with 10k, you can seriously buy a good used car, if you look hard enough, esp a domestic, but even a toyota, but it may have a few more miles but 10k can buy a decent used, no need to go with a bare bones mirage that consumer reports doesn't recommend.

 

[yeti]

Originally Posted By: mclasser
Originally Posted By: Astro14
KitaCam - that's why I haven't tried to help. Even Joseph (AKA GHT ...among other pseudonyms) at least tried to read, understand, and internalize the advice in those threads.

But reading through this and other Engineer20 (E20) threads, there is zero return on the investment of anyone's keystrokes. He asks incessant questions in a stream of unorganized consciousness.

Actually understanding, or attempting to understand, what was said in response to his questions would be a courtesy to those who post.

An even greater courtesy would be the organization, or attempted organization, of his questions, some semblance of grammar, and an attempt to spell-check his posts.

But they're incredibly difficult to read - with lengthy run-on sentences, a complete lack of punctuation, no clear subject/objective, no capitalization, nothing that would help the reader understand E20s questions or concerns.

E20 - if you don't respect my time enough to try, just try, and communicate clearly, why should I bother to answer you? I don't exist to serve you. I'll help you, but not at the cost of trying to wade through your drivel, and not if I think you're simply not listening.

I'll put this simply: people here want to help. You, E20, drive them away.

I think the only people left posting in this thread are either completely frustrated (like you KitaCam) or are simply having a laugh at E20s willful ignorance.

Sadly, there are people sharing the road with this DIY, death-trap 2003 Camry, and its evil twin, the 2009 Ford with no brakes, that have been butchered by E20s bungling.

/thread


e20 has posted twice, well after astro's post, and with no response. the same thing, over and over. that's why he's not worth trying to help.nothing sinks in.ever.

that's why I'm in the camp of having a few laughs, as are many others, before he gets banned.many must be only viewing, just for laughs, since the views are about 5,200.in the Taurus thread, the views are 12,855!!! amazing.
astro -- good post.you might as well be talking to a brick. but, a funny brick.
have a good night.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
and 10k can buy a decent used car, new cars depreciate quickly, with 10k, you can seriously buy a good used car, if you look hard enough, esp a domestic, but even a toyota, but it may have a few more miles but 10k can buy a decent used, no need to go with a bare bones mirage that consumer reports doesn't recommend.


Moderators, please give Eng20 a month off, please.

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
and 10k can buy a decent used car, new cars depreciate quickly, with 10k, you can seriously buy a good used car, if you look hard enough, esp a domestic, but even a toyota, but it may have a few more miles but 10k can buy a decent used, no need to go with a bare bones mirage that consumer reports doesn't recommend.


The point is, a 10k new car comes with a warranty, so you don't have to mess around. A 10k used car may or may not be out of warranty, and that means you will start messing around with brakes, suspensions, exhausts, transmission, fire extinguisher, etc and trash it along the way.

 

[mk378]

Exactly that was the point he missed. Buy a new car and for a few years you won't have to do anything but make the payments and change the oil, and you have trouble-free driving. If it does break, use the warranty.

The Mirage is not going to be fast or luxurious (but then, neither is a 12 year old Camry) but it would satisfy the objective above.

I'm not expecting to change his mind but I do post here so that others won't be misled by his ramblings.

 

[Nate1979]

But what will he do with the old oil filters and oil that he already has? That's the real question. The Mirage takes 0w-20 so that one's out of the picture.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: yeti
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Originally Posted By: Astro14
KitaCam - that's why I haven't tried to help. Even Joseph (AKA GHT ...among other pseudonyms) at least tried to read, understand, and internalize the advice in those threads.

But reading through this and other Engineer20 (E20) threads, there is zero return on the investment of anyone's keystrokes. He asks incessant questions in a stream of unorganized consciousness.

Actually understanding, or attempting to understand, what was said in response to his questions would be a courtesy to those who post.

An even greater courtesy would be the organization, or attempted organization, of his questions, some semblance of grammar, and an attempt to spell-check his posts.

But they're incredibly difficult to read - with lengthy run-on sentences, a complete lack of punctuation, no clear subject/objective, no capitalization, nothing that would help the reader understand E20s questions or concerns.

E20 - if you don't respect my time enough to try, just try, and communicate clearly, why should I bother to answer you? I don't exist to serve you. I'll help you, but not at the cost of trying to wade through your drivel, and not if I think you're simply not listening.

I'll put this simply: people here want to help. You, E20, drive them away.

I think the only people left posting in this thread are either completely frustrated (like you KitaCam) or are simply having a laugh at E20s willful ignorance.

Sadly, there are people sharing the road with this DIY, death-trap 2003 Camry, and its evil twin, the 2009 Ford with no brakes, that have been butchered by E20s bungling.

/thread


e20 has posted twice, well after astro's post, and with no response. the same thing, over and over. that's why he's not worth trying to help.nothing sinks in.ever.

that's why I'm in the camp of having a few laughs, as are many others, before he gets banned.many must be only viewing, just for laughs, since the views are about 5,200.in the Taurus thread, the views are 12,855!!! amazing.
astro -- good post.you might as well be talking to a brick. but, a funny brick.
have a good night.
You think that's a lot? His old one that got locked has almost 27,000 views.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb..._la#Post3911842

 

[engineer20]

There was a 2014 corolla that sold for 13500 and it only had 4000 miles! It was almost a year ago and he sold it, but I go to the dealerships a lot and craigslist and I've seen decent almost new, used cars for less than 15k. Ok 10k may be a little low but for under 15k, you can seriously get an almost new car if you look hard.

The camry is 13 years old and was manufactured in 2002 and November 2002 was when it arrived at the delaership. I asked.

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
There was a 2014 corolla that sold for 13500 and it only had 4000 miles! It was almost a year ago and he sold it, but I go to the dealerships a lot and craigslist and I've seen decent almost new, used cars for less than 15k. Ok 10k may be a little low but for under 15k, you can seriously get an almost new car if you look hard.

The camry is 13 years old and was manufactured in 2002 and November 2002 was when it arrived at the delaership. I asked.


That's fine, you win the argument, now go and buy a like new car that still has warranty and don't spend too much time replacing parts before triple check on the procedures.

13 years old camry or not, if you start messing around with a 2014 Corolla it too will get into a lot of problem, so don't mess around with it after you get a newer car with warranty.

 

[dishdude]

Originally Posted By: engineer20

The camry is 13 years old and was manufactured in 2002 and November 2002 was when it arrived at the delaership. I asked.


That's the critical piece of information we were missing in this thread. Thank you for clearing that up.

 

[engineer20]

any tips on rear strut replacement? If you get the quickstrut, no need to compress, but if not *(i think mine that I can get for free from monroe might not be), I'll have to compress them, will that be hard, or no? So you reuse the spring, but you get a new mount and new "strut" or the main long part?

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips on rear strut replacement? If you get the quickstrut, no need to compress, but if not *(i think mine that I can get for free from monroe might not be), I'll have to compress them, will that be hard, or no? So you reuse the spring, but you get a new mount and new "strut" or the main long part?


My tip is: if it is not necessary and if you are ok with how the car rides at the moment, don't do it. The going rate when I did it almost 10 years ago was $500 per axle parts and labor, parts being around $160 for decent stuff. You can rent spring compressor at AutoZone and you can get cheap struts on Rockauto closeout for $20-30 (on a Ford Escort).

Quick strut may not need spring compressor, but you might be replacing OEM grade mount, spring, and bumpstop with aftermarket that may not last, plus they are more expensive.

In either case you still need to align the car afterward.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips on rear strut replacement? If you get the quickstrut, no need to compress, but if not *(i think mine that I can get for free from monroe might not be), I'll have to compress them, will that be hard, or no? So you reuse the spring, but you get a new mount and new "strut" or the main long part?


This is gonna be good.

 

[KitaCam]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips on rear strut replacement? If you get the quickstrut, no need to compress, but if not *(i think mine that I can get for free from monroe might not be), I'll have to compress them, will that be hard, or no? So you reuse the spring, but you get a new mount and new "strut" or the main long part?


My tip is: if it is not necessary and if you are ok with how the car rides at the moment, don't do it.


Replacement cost is more than the car is worth in terms of ride vs value....

 

[mclasser]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips on rear strut replacement? If you get the quickstrut, no need to compress, but if not *(i think mine that I can get for free from monroe might not be), I'll have to compress them, will that be hard, or no? So you reuse the spring, but you get a new mount and new "strut" or the main long part?

Oh God, no, just no. A person like you has no business doing something as dangerous as spring compression. Don't even think about this.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: engineer20
any tips on rear strut replacement? If you get the quickstrut, no need to compress, but if not *(i think mine that I can get for free from monroe might not be), I'll have to compress them, will that be hard, or no? So you reuse the spring, but you get a new mount and new "strut" or the main long part?


This is gonna be good.
"Tips" for someone who owns two screwdrivers, a hammer, and a pair of HF "vicegrips". Don't.

 

[kschachn]

You guys are getting suckered hook, line and sinker. This dude could hardly have picked a more appropriate/alarming topic than a strut disassembly to stir up sympathy for his made-up posts.

Good job. What's next, questions about replacing portions of his brake lines with latex tubing from the hardware store?

Maybe he will have questions about welding his fuel tank while on the car and full of fuel.