Car won't start, no gas movement observed, pump?

[Hal9000]

1977 Toyota Corona. Cranks, won't turn over.

-Made sure it has gas (added about 3-4 gallons).
-Sprayed starter fluid. It will fire for just a second or so, then dies.
-Fuel filter is visible. I can see the gas level in it hasn't changed (after multiple attempts to start).

Does this sound like a likely fuel pump? Or clogged line? How can I test the pump?

I will be changing the filter first.

One other slightly quirk...

The ignition has a push-button start. The key only turns to the ACC position, and then you press a button. Is it possible being in the ACC position is making it fail to start? As mentioned above, there is a brief firing with starter fluid.

Thanks.

 

[55Test]

Can you see any gas squirt in the carburetor when you work the pedal from under the hood? I'm gonna guess it's not getting fuel for some reason

 

[Hal9000]

I've been by myself, so can't do the peddle, I should try working the throttle cable. Thanks, good idea.

The see-through filter is mounted near the carb, and lots of cranking didn't alter the fuel level in it whatsoever.

 

[Trav]

Check for power at the pump terminals engine cranking, it might have a any or a combination of a fuse, relay and possibly an oil pressure switch circuit.

KOEO may not activate the pump if an oil pressure circuit is used so checking flow may not be an option without jumping the wires on the switch.
This is a simple test light job, its easy but can be a bit time consuming.

 

[Hal9000]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Check for power at the pump terminals engine cranking, it might have a any or a combination of a fuse, relay and possibly an oil pressure switch circuit.

KOEO may not activate the pump if an oil pressure circuit is used so checking flow may not be an option without jumping the wires on the switch.
This is a simple test light job, its easy but can be a bit time consuming.


Would this be the same if it has a mechanical pump? I believe it does, but haven't taken the airbox off to visualize yet.

 

[bullwinkle]

Guessing a '77 would be mechanical, likely driven off the camshaft. Might be able to crack a fuel line (AS LONG AS IT IS MECHANICAL) & press the "crank" button, & see if any fuel sprays out. Leave the ignition OFF when you try it!

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Hal9000
Originally Posted By: Trav
Check for power at the pump terminals engine cranking, it might have a any or a combination of a fuse, relay and possibly an oil pressure switch circuit.

KOEO may not activate the pump if an oil pressure circuit is used so checking flow may not be an option without jumping the wires on the switch.
This is a simple test light job, its easy but can be a bit time consuming.


Would this be the same if it has a mechanical pump? I believe it does, but haven't taken the airbox off to visualize yet.


Some parts catalogs list an in tank electric pump, but i see Toyota list a mechanical so i guess it cold be either depending on probably the manufacturing date.
Easy to see if its mechanical and easier to deal with.

 

[440Magnum]

The POS 78 Mazda B2000 we had many moons ago had an electric pump= one of the low-pressure "impulse" pumps that sits there and goes "tick-a-tick-a-tick-a..." whenever the key is on. This sounds like a dead electric pump to me.

 

[mk378]

Many of the Japanese carbs had a sight glass on the side so you can see if there is any fuel in the bowl.

To check fuel pump disconnect gas line at the carb and direct into a container, disable ignition system (usually you'd disconnect coil), then crank. As was mentioned, some of the electric pumps are wired to the oil pressure switch. The oil light on the dash should be on when you first start to crank but then go out.

 

[Cardenio327]

3 or 4 gallons might not be enough to prime it too, especially if it has a mechanical pump or an aftermarket electrical pump.

It wasn't unheard of back in the day to use an air hose to pressurize the fuel tank to push the fuel to the carburetor on cars that were stubborn.

If it is electrical and if it is wired properly it will have both an oil pressure signal and a start signal that will make the pump run independent of each other. If someone added a start button they probably didn't trouble their self with adding a start signal wire to the start button. If this is the case it probably works alright normally, but when it comes to running out of gas the pump won't run enough to prime the carburetor.

I remember every time we seen somebody emptying a gas can into their tank on the side of the road my Dad would exclaim "you always should leave a little in the can for priming the carburetor."

 

[silveravant]

Follow the fuel line from the carb and see if it leads to a mechanical fuel pump on the block or head, not sure if a '77 Corona is OHV or OHC. Mechanical fuel pump usually runs off cam.

 

[Dufus2]

Has anyone considered the points ignition or ballast resister as part of the problem and not just the fuel? An igniter is also part of the ignition back in these early Toyota cars.

 

[Vikas]

Quote:
The key only turns to the ACC position
I bet *lots* of cars will NOT start when the key is in ACC position!!! The entire reason for ACC position is there so that engine is NOT running (aka NO ignition, and possibly NO fuel) but you still get radio and lamps etc.

 

[440Magnum]

The ignition is obviously working since it runs for a second or two on starting fluid. GOTTA be a fuel issue.