1mzfe owners
- Thread starter Jake777
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Would following the owner's manual be acceptable?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
My brother has a 1MZFE in his 96' Lexus ES300, we usually run conventional in it but have Castrol SynBlend 5w30 in it now. 183k miles or so.
I think the 97+ years were sludge years though.
And I would be running synthetic in it.
Supposedly my car with the 5SFE is supposed to be a sludger too, it's clean as a whistle.
I think the 97+ years were sludge years though.
And I would be running synthetic in it.
Supposedly my car with the 5SFE is supposed to be a sludger too, it's clean as a whistle.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3942238/1
I would absolutely hate doing the rear valve cover on a 1mzfe, intake manifold has to be removed, which I replaced the IM gaskets on my brother's.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3942238/1
I would absolutely hate doing the rear valve cover on a 1mzfe, intake manifold has to be removed, which I replaced the IM gaskets on my brother's.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
7,500 miles in normal use and 5,000 in severe use but I don't trust it. This is the motor that started the Toyota sludge issue. I'm just curious as to what others with the exact motor have used
I have used Mobil 1 almost exclusively since new on a short (for M1) OCI average of 5,000 miles. That thread linked above shows the results.
7,500 miles in normal use and 5,000 in severe use but I don't trust it. This is the motor that started the Toyota sludge issue. I'm just curious as to what others with the exact motor have used
I have used Mobil 1 almost exclusively since new on a short (for M1) OCI average of 5,000 miles. That thread linked above shows the results.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I would absolutely hate doing the rear valve cover on a 1mzfe, intake manifold has to be removed, which I replaced the IM gaskets on my brother's.
It's really not that bad, only the upper intake plenum has to be removed. The hardest part is maneuvering the wiring harness out of the way so you can get the cover lifted up.
It does give you easy access to replace the plugs though, plus the O2 sensor if you want or need to do that. Also the power steering pressure hose which is going to be leaking on a high-miles car.
I would absolutely hate doing the rear valve cover on a 1mzfe, intake manifold has to be removed, which I replaced the IM gaskets on my brother's.
It's really not that bad, only the upper intake plenum has to be removed. The hardest part is maneuvering the wiring harness out of the way so you can get the cover lifted up.
It does give you easy access to replace the plugs though, plus the O2 sensor if you want or need to do that. Also the power steering pressure hose which is going to be leaking on a high-miles car.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
So 5,000 miles on Maxlife or 12 months should be fine. Why do the owners manuals call for every 4 months?
On that engine? Dino 3000 miles, synthetic 5000 max. The PCV system is undersized and should be cleaned frequently as well.
I would use PP and 5000.
So 5,000 miles on Maxlife or 12 months should be fine. Why do the owners manuals call for every 4 months?
On that engine? Dino 3000 miles, synthetic 5000 max. The PCV system is undersized and should be cleaned frequently as well.
I would use PP and 5000.
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If a sludger, dont go dino, neither for 5k milez. More probability to get a bad bath, add cuts and other stuff, than with syn, TMO.
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Originally Posted By: Jake777
Who here owns one of the Toyota 1mzfe v6 motors and runs Dino oil? Any comments on oil change intervals you have used would be appreciated. No synthetic for me on this car.
I think you should remove the front valve cover to inspect the condition first. I had a 98 Sienna and there was a lot of Varnish and caked sludge in the corners of the front valve cover. I never removed the rear cover.
I was using full synthetic year round (5w-30) in it to try and clean it up. I also tried MMO and Auto-rx. It never got much better using that approach. I owned the van for 6 years and sold it last September. Engine ran fine and never burned any oil.
If you are going to use conventional, I wouldn't push your OCI interval past 5000.
As mentioned by others, make sure you maintain the PCV system in that engine.
Who here owns one of the Toyota 1mzfe v6 motors and runs Dino oil? Any comments on oil change intervals you have used would be appreciated. No synthetic for me on this car.
I think you should remove the front valve cover to inspect the condition first. I had a 98 Sienna and there was a lot of Varnish and caked sludge in the corners of the front valve cover. I never removed the rear cover.
I was using full synthetic year round (5w-30) in it to try and clean it up. I also tried MMO and Auto-rx. It never got much better using that approach. I owned the van for 6 years and sold it last September. Engine ran fine and never burned any oil.
If you are going to use conventional, I wouldn't push your OCI interval past 5000.
As mentioned by others, make sure you maintain the PCV system in that engine.
I'd use synthetic every 5k, and change the PCV valve and grommet annually, if not every OCI.
Why would you NOT run synthetic in these sludge monsters?
Why would you NOT run synthetic in these sludge monsters?
Originally Posted By: Jake777
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Well this particular engine is a bad one for drawing that battle line, but a good conventional 10W-30 on a short OCI should be OK too. It really depends on what your future plan is for the car since you can get burned by not doing it too.
I also agree that pulling the front valve cover is a good idea. It's probably leaking anyway so getting a view of the inside is worthwhile. Just know that whatever you see on the front is going to be (about) twice as bad in the back in my experience.
I'll also tell you that short-tripping this engine in the cold is not good. The one 1MZ-FE that I actually saw having the sludge issue was driven a mile or two twice a day, including during our harsh Wisconsin winters. The owner told me he had the oil changed "about" twice a year with whatever they used at the quick-change place. Since you live in FL that is mitigated somewhat, but allowing the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature is still a good idea. This then allows the second problem (high head temperatures) to surface but at least you narrow down the issues a little
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
Well this particular engine is a bad one for drawing that battle line, but a good conventional 10W-30 on a short OCI should be OK too. It really depends on what your future plan is for the car since you can get burned by not doing it too.
I also agree that pulling the front valve cover is a good idea. It's probably leaking anyway so getting a view of the inside is worthwhile. Just know that whatever you see on the front is going to be (about) twice as bad in the back in my experience.
I'll also tell you that short-tripping this engine in the cold is not good. The one 1MZ-FE that I actually saw having the sludge issue was driven a mile or two twice a day, including during our harsh Wisconsin winters. The owner told me he had the oil changed "about" twice a year with whatever they used at the quick-change place. Since you live in FL that is mitigated somewhat, but allowing the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature is still a good idea. This then allows the second problem (high head temperatures) to surface but at least you narrow down the issues a little
Originally Posted By: Jake777
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
No need to worry.
We purchased our '99 1MZ-FE at around 100k and immediately switched to Mobil 1.
To answer that question I recently got burned by switching a older high mileage van from conventional to synthetic so honestly I'm afraid to go full synthetic.
No need to worry.
We purchased our '99 1MZ-FE at around 100k and immediately switched to Mobil 1.
Originally Posted By: Jake777
Thank you. Good advice. So you feel the 10-30 will hold up to heat better than the 5-30?
Well that engine also shears the oil pretty good with the gear-driven camshafts. Some/most people on here believe that a 10W-30 with less viscosity improvers is more shear stable. It may be true and in your case (living in FL) there is no reason to use 5W.
Thank you. Good advice. So you feel the 10-30 will hold up to heat better than the 5-30?
Well that engine also shears the oil pretty good with the gear-driven camshafts. Some/most people on here believe that a 10W-30 with less viscosity improvers is more shear stable. It may be true and in your case (living in FL) there is no reason to use 5W.
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