centrifuge

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Older Honda motorcycles used to use centrifugal filters. There was always same stuff in them. They ran a long time for that era.

Rod
 
In merchant ships, centrifugal filters are used for ships service diesel generators. Centrifugal lube oil purifiers are used for main engine or auxiliary turbine lube oil. They both seemed to work very well.
 
My engine came with one. Only the EGR versions, the EGR is now in the garage but the centrifuge is still on the engine. My last UOA showed only 2ppm Fe/1000mi, 3ppm Si total over 17.5Kmi

Charlie
 
Fiat 124 had one, ironic when you consider that the bodywork on FIATs of that era was designed to last an Italian summer.

As noted above, the Honda CB125 / CG125 clones on most motorcycles here have them.

The snag is they have to be cleaned out periodically, and at the consumer end of the market (certainly here) that tends not to happen.
 
I have not dug deep into the specifications on centrifuges but what does the oil pressure need to be to spin the rotor at a sufficient speed for them to work? Would oil pressure on a regular small block GM V-8 engine or a 6 or 4 cylinder engine be enough to make them work? Would the oil volume going to the centrifuge cause problems with oil flow to the engine?

xtell
 
Now you're asking really pertinent questions. All I can answer is how it pertains to my vehicles. I actually have an oil pressure readout in psi on the dashboard as part of my Driver Information Center. The Centrifuges I have seen require 1/4" size INPUT line and a larger gravity drain.

If you don't KNOW what psi you have on your running engine, you need to install an oil pressure gauge either temporarily or permanently or forget installing a centrifuge.

How much oil pressure is enough to spare to power a Centrifuge? I would think that e-mailing the supplier should be able to assist you. They are the ones who want to sell them. BITOG has an excellent article on how much oil pressure is enough: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-105/ The suppliers I have contacted state in their literature (obviously) that the more oil pressure you have, the faster the centrifuge will spin, with optimal centrifuge operation between 3-6 bar; or about 43-87 psi.

Since you mention GM V-6 or 8; I will tell you what mine is; I drive a 2003 Lesabre with the famous 3800 V-6. Manufacturer spec oil is 10W30; but the following year, 2004 GM changed their spec'd oil to 5W30.

I'm running 5W30 Amsoil full synthetic, and after the engine is fully warmed, I have 55 psi oil pressure at idle. Cruising @ 60 mph I have 60 psi. 70 mph I have 62-63 psi oil. Cold start I max out at about 70 psi oil pressure; and I'm doing all of this WITH a bypass filter installed which is fed by an AN-4 line.

I plan, in the near future, to install a centrifuge and supply it with an AN-6 line. I have ordered the Centrifuge, and I don't know yet if I'm going to fabricate (modify) an aluminum valve cover to mount it on or cut a hole above the oil level in my oil pan and weld a return fitting there.

The main drawback (in my limited experience) with a centrifuge is that manufacturers specify a rather large return line which must gravity drain back into the engine in a non-pressure location. (Mine coming) requires a 19 mm minimum return line. And of course a centrifuge requires a level mounting spot with overhead clearance for disassembly and servicing.

The benefits are obvious: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1347/centrifuge-contaminants

If my oil pressure drops too much, ZZPerformance and Intense racing both sell kits to raise my oil pressure; it is simply a shim behind the spring to the bypass valve: http://zzperformance.com/3800/engine/oil-volume-kit.html

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merc...ode=3800_Engine

There is even a kit to adjust the oil pressure on this engine with the turn of a screw, so you can DIAL it with the engine running: http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merc...ode=3800_Engine
 
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Sounds like you have really done a lot of research on the use of Centrifuges. I started to read up on the subject myself the past few days. I would appreciate it if you would keep posting updates as to how you install your Centrifuge and what sort of results you have. I see that some of the centrifuges, like those made by COF and PPE are real small and look like they could be easily mounted in an engine bay. Not to mention, they are also easy to service / clean.
 
ihatetochangoil,

I noted on the other post in this forum about Centrifuges, that you purchased the LC-10 Centrifuge. If you have received it, please update us as to your impression on its construction, size, and where / how you are going to mount the unit. I have been researching the benefit / use of Centrifuges and with them in use, removal of sub-micron particles is possible. Talk about having clean oil!!!

xtell
 
I purchased it directly from the supplier in Pune, India...Spent $429 shipping. BAPL is OEM supplier to Volvo, Cummins, International, etc: http://www.centrifugallubeoilcleaner.com/pdfs/automotive-brochure.pdf

I've been working 7 days a week, 14 hours daily, sorry, I just don't feel ambitious enough to disassembe it and post a detailed analysis right now; but here's a picture of it on my kitchen counter between two coffee cups:




The magnet demonstrates that the base is Aluminum, but the cover is steel.

I plan to go to Walmart and purchase some Playdoh, then stuff a wad of clay under it and a plastic notebook and some clay OVER it, then gently shut my hood with the centrifuge sitting directly on top of my valve cover.

IF there is clearance, I plan to cut a hole in my valve cover to mount the centrifuge so oil can return to the sump in the same manner as when you add oil to the engine. If there is NOT clearance, I have to fabricate a mounting bracket behind the radiator crossmember, then drill a hole and weld a return fitting onto my oil pan, above the oil level.

I will be happy to post further details as I progress with this. The centrifuge may replace this filter in same location under the hood:
 
Ihatetochangeoil,

Seeing the Centrifuge next to the cups is a real eye opener as to how small it is. A perfect size for cramped engine compartments. I checked the LC-10 specifications and I see that it can be used on 4 cylinder engines / engines with 5-14 liter oil sumps. Perfect size for your application. From the information I have read, seems that these units need to have a good discharge route for the oil to get back to the sump. Compared to the currently available bypass units that use different types of filtration materials, cellulose, synthetic fibers, toilet paper, etc. and the larger size of these units, these small Centrifuge's may be the way top go if one wants to have the lowest particulate count oil in their sump.
 
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Centrifuge is on and operational!









One thing I did not expect: Upon firing the engine, the centrifuge sounds like a small jet turbine. Not obnoxiously loud, the A/C blower will drown it out, but I can hear it. When I shut the engine off, the centrifuge s-l-o-w-l-y winds down. I think it is a beautiful sound, others may not. And when I changed the oil pan, I did NOT change the oil; I saved and reused it. I will post UOA in a few thousand miles, with particle counts on the SAME oil, before and after centrifuge installation.

Notice I have 65 psi oil pressure running TWO bypass filters!

Anyone else running a centrifuge on an automobile? Or am I in uncharted waters?
 
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Centrifuge is on and operational!









One thing I did not expect: Upon firing the engine, the centrifuge sounds like a small jet turbine. Not obnoxiously loud, the A/C blower will drown it out, but I can hear it. When I shut the engine off, the centrifuge s-l-o-w-l-y winds down. I think it is a beautiful sound, others may not. And when I changed the oil pan, I did NOT change the oil; I saved and reused it. I will post UOA in a few thousand miles, with particle counts on the SAME oil, before and after centrifuge installation.

Notice I have 65 psi oil pressure running TWO bypass filters!

Anyone else running a centrifuge on an automobile? Or am I in uncharted waters?



Nice work:)
 
ihatetochangeoil,

Very Clean and Professional install. Good to see that your oil pressure is still within the PSI range when you were only running the single bypass filtration set up. What is the ID size of the return line from the Centrifuge to oil sump? I remember you said that it needed to be larger than the size of the input line. I have never heard or read about anyone installing one of these units on passenger car and you also still have the NTZ filter installed as well. This is going to be one interesting UOA. Wonder what the comments from the lab will be !!!
 
Thank you for your kind words.

Per Manufacturer's instructions, the ID of the return line needs to be a minimum of 19mm, or 3/4". The AN lines come in sizes AN4, AN6, AN8, AN12, AN16, etc.

I purchased a couple AN12 fittings and found that they were NOT 3/4" ID, the ID was slightly smaller...In order to stay within manufacturer's recommendations, I had to step UP one size. The ID of my return line is 1", the AN16 fittings are 1" ID, but the main restriction is the aluminum pipe connecting the centrifuge base and adapting it to a threaded AN fitting. Pipe only comes in certain sizes...I found 1 1/8" OD pipe with a wall of 1/8", so my ID is 7/8" on the pipe.

Here is a picture of the pieces for the centrifuge support bracket prior to welding, they bolt onto the bottom of the NTZ:



I too, am looking forward to UOA.
 
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