Mobil 1 oil filter quality

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Grabbed two Mobil 1 oil filters (M1-110) few days ago, which is on sale at Canadian Tire.

They're supposed to be identical, but they're actually not.

Here's the first one, looks clean, eh?

15z2wp1.jpg


Now here's the second one, looks like someone unprofessionally welded the base plate after it's assembled.

30c9agm.jpg


Went back to Canadian Tire, and returned the second one (there was also a dent so decided to return it back). Guess what? The third one also has ugly welds on the base plate.

Since both filters have different built quality, should I worry about that?

Thanks!

Dan
 
Yes, 901Memphis is correct. I found a few old Champion Labs filters that cross to that made early this year and they have this too. I was able to scrape it off with my Barlow pocket knife. The M1-204 I cut and posted also had what you are showing us and it went 10~k miles with M1 oil just fine
 
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Its the same (or very similar) adhesive found internally holding the media to the end-caps, so its oil proof and really hard. I've seen it peeking out of joints in Royal Purple filters (also made by Champion). Its not going anywhere and shouldn't be a concern, but it does offend my aesthetic sensibilities. :p
 
Oh look, tiny slits in the center tube. Why is it OK for Fram to use them but not Purolator?

Anyway, that's just glue, not welds. What are the date codes on each filter?
 
Just some sealant to seal up where the baseplate and can are seamed together. Nothing to be concerned about.
I've seen that on many of the champ made AC Delco filters I have installed over the years.
 
Mr Nice i do the same thing i open the box and look at them very carefully..That is a reason i don't go to an auto parts store that Keeps their filters behind the counter. I still get my Wix filters from my buddy that bought my shop so im ok and i get my ultras at wal mart.
 
I have just done 1 better: got myself a case of Baldwin filters for like $50.76 total. Done with FRAM for while and f*** Purolator garbage. Never touch a Purolator or "tearolator" again.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Oh look, tiny slits in the center tube. Why is it OK for Fram to use them but not Purolator?

Anyway, that's just glue, not welds. What are the date codes on each filter?
DOn't ask such "inconvenient" questions... I'm sure the Framboys have a good answer.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
WOW another filter with those restrictive looking small oil holes on the center tube. Buy an ultra or a Wix filter..


My Nissan OEM filters have those "restrictive" spiral vortex center cores!! So does my aftermarket WIX filter!

It is not an issue! It should help spin the oil in the filter for better media protection.

Concern about restriction? Buy a E-core!!!!!
 
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I took a good look at the Purolator Boss filters at AAP the other day. It was the 14610 model and it had plenty of openings in the center tube. I highly doubt it would be a problem. I wouldn't have any concern using a Purolator Boss filter for that reason. It was rather heavy just like its competitor.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Oh look, tiny slits in the center tube. Why is it OK for Fram to use them but not Purolator?

Anyway, that's just glue, not welds. What are the date codes on each filter?


I don't know how to read the date codes

072815AB2 * it's the one with the glue on the base plate
061515AB1
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
WOW another filter with those restrictive looking small oil holes on the center tube. Buy an ultra or a Wix filter..


I got 2 Fram Ultras, but also wanted to try M1.

I will probably use M1s with a conventional, for multiple OCIs indeed. I used to use OEM S2000 filter for a very long time, want to try something different.

In regards to Wix, it is impossible to find in here. Napa Gold and Carquest Blue are way more expensive than both M1 and Fram.
 
I am not bothered by any manufacturers using small holes in the center tube, it's not anything I look at when I'm deciding on a filter, if anything smaller is better, since we know too big creates problems like some e cores in the past.

If the holes in the center tube are a problem how is it going to flow oil through the just thousands of an inch between the bearings?
 
Originally Posted By: dgunay
I don't know how to read the date codes

072815AB2 * it's the one with the glue on the base plate
061515AB1


Looks like 07/28/15 (Jul 28, 2015) and 06/15/15 (Jun 15, 2015).
 
Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
Concern about restriction? Buy a E-core!!!!!

I've never heard it put that way.
wink.gif
Hastings uses the spiral, too, and claim better flow. Someone posted a link in another thread. If it works, great. As long as the holes, no matter how they're made, are open enough, I guess I'm happy. An ecore might be a bit excessive, though.
 
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