Oil for 1997 4runner with 300K

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Looking for thoughts on oil for my 1997 4runner with 300K (3.4L V6). Cap says 5w30. Till now has been running on OEM filters with QS 5w30 dino put in by dealer. Going to be doing my own changes going forward. No synthetic in her to date. Not burning oil, but some very small leaks (drop or two per day). Used daily, putting on about 15k per year.

Planning on using Pennzoil 5w30 HM dino, M1 filters, with OCI around 7-8k. Thoughts? Am I right to avoid synthetics to reduce chance of more leakage?
 
firstly,
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In regards to the oil change regime, with an older vehicle that has run on OEM filters and dino why not continue doing just that? QS is good oil and if you don't want to use OEM yota filters try wix.
 
For a low mileage 4 Runner like yours (couldn't resist), really, any oil you want to run is fine. Synthetic, or not, HM, or not, 0W30, 10W30, 5W30, even 10W40 will work in it. Since it leaks a bit (so does mine) I would go with what you can find on sale. I've tried HM in mine, but it doesn't seem to affect the rear main seal that I think is causing the leaks.

So...That's my strategy - buy on clearance, put whatever you want in it. Currently, I'm running Castrol Edge that I bought on sale for $2/QT years ago.
 
No need for a syn; car seems to have done pretty good without it. Any good HM like Pennzoil or MaxLife will serve you well. I agree w/Blkstanger -- stick with 5-6K OCIs.
 
OP - your plan is fine. MaxLife blend will also work well. Avoid any full synthetics so you don't make the leak worse. You could go with a less expensive filter at this point IMO - even a cheap Puro or Fram at Walmart would be fine. Just keep that baby topped off, although the leak should eventually slow down or stop with the high mileage blend oils.
 
Seems like you should be giving advice instead of asking ! A high mileage would be perfect.
 
I like your plan a lot. The HM oil could possibly help with the leak too. I think that 7-8k OCI would be fine, in my opinion, and allows you to go with a semi yearly schedule (especially since you'll likely be putting a little bit of top-off oil). A spring and fall change would be perfect.

I would just make sure to check the oil level regularly and top off.
 
The factory Toyota filter is an excellent filter, very economical vs. other over-marketed options, very robust for a standard OCI, and has got it this far. I would stick with it for 5k intervals if using dino oil.

Staying with 5w-30 in these engines is good for winter, and 10w-30 in the summer reduces usage a bit.

The oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets are the usual sources of leaks, and not hard to DIY. It would also give you a chance to look inside the engine and clean out any settled material in the pan.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Maxlife 5w30 + Tough Guard


+1
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Sorry, I don't get it? There is no difference between 5W and 10W-30 at engine operating temp except for the amount of VI's ... Either would work fine.

But I'd likely go to HDEO 15W-40 (for the extra detergency) or Maxlife 10W-40 (for teh seal conditioners) for summer/fall because the motor will consistently see higher temps, especially if stuck in traffic with the AC on ...
 
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I recently switched my 98 Tacoma 3.4L V6 with 203k miles over to Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w30 as part of the Pennzoil "Make the Switch" campaign. I've been really happy with it so far. Especially the cold starts and short commute to work at 5:30am (butt dyno and switching to a low viscosity full synthetic most likely; 40°c=55.6, 100°c=10.1). I'll have to wait 6 months before I get a UOA. I also like the TRD oil filters. They have the 1" hex nut on top which make removal easier and have synthetic media that's 98% at 20 microns. You could get away with running them for two 5k intervals. The 3.4L have a horrible oil filter location. Hard to reach and leak all over the place when removing.
 
This in anecdotal but perhaps this a bit of info that is helpful.

I'm running my '97 Explorer since day one and it's still churning strong as it will cross the 300k threshold before the end of the month. From the inception, it has had a single change of dino and the rest has always been synthetic oils and M1 filters once those became available.

In terms of specific types of syn, it has run on M1 5w-30 for probably the vast, vast majority of the time with a few changes of GC tossed in a few years ago when it was all the rage. Now I still run a syn 5w-30 but it's a mix of Castrol, PU or usually M1 at the same 7,500 mile intervals over the last 100-150k miles. Walmart is my friend.

At each smog check the output is still within factory specs for what a new car should put out according to the tech, and last year, my home state issued me a notice to have an off year smog check because a vehicle this old falls into a likely gross polluter category. Once again, the tech said I'm putting out so little pollutants that it seems like a new vehicle. The mileage remains consistent for so many years I can't recall, there are no leaks, and it still burns the same 1/2 qt every 5k it always has. The infamous Eyeball In The Fill Cap test shows a bright timing chain, no sludge and a nice silvery shine like we've all seen here on good cars without sludge. It's picture perfect.

So my point is this - The rest of the truck is falling apart and going to die long before the engine does. Transmission, transfer case, rear hatch, door switches, rust, wiper assembly and all the other indicia of a car that's starting the home plate slide but the engine is running like a champ.

At some point, as others have said here over the years, we'll manage to keep the engine alive and purring but rest of the car will die first. My advice is to pick any quality syn and filter, change it around 7.5k or whatever your analysis says you can do and call it a day. Go to a hockey game, fishing, to the shooting range but there's no reason to get antsy over the engine and the oil. It will not matter in the long run.
 
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Synthetic won't cause any leaks. If it leaks, the leak was already there. 7,000-8,000 is a little much for conventional IMO unless you're doing 95%+ highway. I'd suggest Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic blend, it'll hold up to that mileage better. If you do want to go with longer OCIs, I'd suggest Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic or Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: claluja
Looking for thoughts on oil for my 1997 4runner with 300K (3.4L V6). Cap says 5w30. Till now has been running on OEM filters with QS 5w30 dino put in by dealer. Going to be doing my own changes going forward. No synthetic in her to date. Not burning oil, but some very small leaks (drop or two per day). Used daily, putting on about 15k per year.

Planning on using Pennzoil 5w30 HM dino, M1 filters, with OCI around 7-8k. Thoughts? Am I right to avoid synthetics to reduce chance of more leakage?
I guess sticking with what got you to 300k doesn't make sense anymore huh?
 
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