0W20 in the US but 5W30 outside US for Mazda

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Originally Posted By: flatlander757
My Mazda2 calls for 0W20, in other countries 5w30 up to 10w40 is even allowed.

I ran 0w20 PP and the wear numbers are so low vs universal average, I'm not really looking to switch to a thicker oil anymore. This is with multiple auto-x runs on every sample too(not CRAZY hard on the car, but it gets beaten on).



Now how the 1.5 differs from the Skyactiv Mazda3s, is I do not have direct injection, with the HPFP to go with it. I'd probably look for a 0 or 5w30 with the highest HTHS value and start with that as a baseline. They're very good engines with no major problems like many other mfrs have with their DI engines, so reality is 0w20 is probably just fine.


DI fords have lots of problems.
 
In Australia we can get everything from 0W-16 to 40W-70 (just 40-70 to be correct, no W rating). Including a few good full synthetic 0W-20 oils from people like Penrite, Valvoline and more. They are comparable in price to other full synthetics.

Mazda are not giving us a break in Australia, because we all live in caves, and rub two sticks together every time we need fire.
 
SR5, have been battling that for a decade...

Toyota can import an entire car but can't throw a few cases of TGMO in the boot before it gets on a boat ?

Our ox carts to the parts store have a bum rap.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Shannow
The W rating doesn't mean much until the temps are getting g down to where they matter... Like - 25 or 30


But in reference to KingCake's comment, with the exact same brand of oil (ie same base stocks, additives, etc.), how can the 0W-30 be any worse for cold start/warmup than a 5w-20 grade? I would agree that 0w-20 or 5w-20 is essentially no different "cold" than 0w-30 or 5w-30 for the vast majority of the world's population.


Thicker oil flows faster when cold according to Shannow. I believe he also has a perpetual motion machine and other physics defying wisdom.


Do you understand how a positive displacement pump works?
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Thicker oil flows faster when cold according to Shannow.


Show me exactly where I stated that ???

Who are you a sockpuppet of this time, as your "techniques" seem a little familiar ?

A positive displacement pump has "chambers" that fill with oil, get moved from low pressure side to high pressure side, then get emptied into the high pressure side, usually by meshing of gears, or lobes or the like.

A fixed volume of oil is therefore moved every single revolution, whether it's a 20, 30, or 40 grade.

Originally Posted By: KingCake
I believe he also has a perpetual motion machine and other physics defying wisdom.


If your statements and post demonstrate YOUR understanding of "physics", then everything must seem magic to you.
 
Personally on my 4.6 and 5.4 ford engines i use 4 quarts of 5w20 and 2 quarts of 5w30 in the summer.. On my 2011 hyundai santa fe 3.5 i use 5w30 all year around even know the oil cap say 5w20. 2001 ford escape uses 5w30 all year around even know the oil cap says 5w20 and its nice and quiet.

I have no proof that 5w20 wears more but i do know 5w30 usually sounds better.
 
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
My Mazda2 calls for 0W20, in other countries 5w30 up to 10w40 is even allowed.

I ran 0w20 PP and the wear numbers are so low vs universal average, I'm not really looking to switch to a thicker oil anymore. This is with multiple auto-x runs on every sample too(not CRAZY hard on the car, but it gets beaten on).



Now how the 1.5 differs from the Skyactiv Mazda3s, is I do not have direct injection, with the HPFP to go with it. I'd probably look for a 0 or 5w30 with the highest HTHS value and start with that as a baseline. They're very good engines with no major problems like many other mfrs have with their DI engines, so reality is 0w20 is probably just fine.


Wow, please post the tear downs and wear rate numbers.
 
The wording in many owners manuals changed from "MAXIMUM protection" for 5-30 and 10-30 oils, to "ADEQUATE protection" for 5-20 and 0-20 oils.

Word to the wise...
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Pumps move fluids of different viscosities at the same rate?

Shannow has pointed out actual papers covering this matter. This question has been answered by engineers years ago. I'm not sure why the confusion persists. The only concern is pumping at the limits of the fluid's winter ratings, such as MRV. Only at those temperatures will you see the difference.

Because we do get to -40 in this province, and sometimes for a period of time that feels like an eternity, I tend to choose a 5w-XX or better for cold starting. I stick with a 5w-XX year round because we have multigrade oils and we don't need to adjust viscosity by season any longer like it were 1950. I don't stick with 5w-XX in the summer in the hope of improving cold start wear when it's 78 F; I stick with it because it's convenient and eliminates seasonal oil changes.
 
My mazda3 2012 skyactiv 2.0 from day 1 runs M1 0w20 with almost 60k on it it will always get 0w20 the fact many missing is its darn near a 5Qt sump excellent cooling for a little 2.0L
 
Let me just jump in and ask this question. Does everyone agree that the 20 weight would reduce average oil temperatures compared to the 30? If indeed they both provide solid protection wouldn't you want the cooler oil temps in summer?
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
My Mazda2 calls for 0W20, in other countries 5w30 up to 10w40 is even allowed.

I ran 0w20 PP and the wear numbers are so low vs universal average, I'm not really looking to switch to a thicker oil anymore. This is with multiple auto-x runs on every sample too(not CRAZY hard on the car, but it gets beaten on).



Now how the 1.5 differs from the Skyactiv Mazda3s, is I do not have direct injection, with the HPFP to go with it. I'd probably look for a 0 or 5w30 with the highest HTHS value and start with that as a baseline. They're very good engines with no major problems like many other mfrs have with their DI engines, so reality is 0w20 is probably just fine.


DI fords have lots of problems.



Which ones specifically?

I work at a MASSIVE used car dealer, and see all makes and models mostly within last 4-5 years. The problems that they've had are few and far between compared to VW, BMW, etc.

The only really widespread problematic engine Mazda has IMO is the 2.3l turbo DI that used to be in the Speed3/6/CX7. Mostly injector failure, turbo seals failing, and pistons shattering from knock(many believe). They have a history of just blowing up.

The Ecoboost V6s have had their share of problems, my favorite in a Taurus SHO that had the spark plug porcelain fall and wreck the valves on the way out. Followed by Ford denying warranty because the spark plugs are a "maintenance item"... Even though they're not due until 100k(IIRC?), and this happened at 30k.


Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
My Mazda2 calls for 0W20, in other countries 5w30 up to 10w40 is even allowed.

I ran 0w20 PP and the wear numbers are so low vs universal average, I'm not really looking to switch to a thicker oil anymore. This is with multiple auto-x runs on every sample too(not CRAZY hard on the car, but it gets beaten on).



Now how the 1.5 differs from the Skyactiv Mazda3s, is I do not have direct injection, with the HPFP to go with it. I'd probably look for a 0 or 5w30 with the highest HTHS value and start with that as a baseline. They're very good engines with no major problems like many other mfrs have with their DI engines, so reality is 0w20 is probably just fine.


Wow, please post the tear downs and wear rate numbers.




shaking.gif




I don't know why I even bother posting on BITOG sometimes.
 
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I am betting this is the case for the 2015 4runners too. 0w20 is recommended, 5w20 can be used, but 0w20 must be used next time and going up 1 weight is okay if it is used for heavy towing.

Would this be 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30? Lol.
 
Originally Posted By: perryg114
I was reading the Mazda 3 manual and it said 0W20 in US and Canada and 5W30 in other countries. This is telling me 0W20 is a compromise for mileage sake with a potential down side to engine longevity. It also tells me there is no harm in using the thicker oil other than a slight decrease in mileage. I posted another thread about 0W20 and I can't find it. Not sure if it got nuked by a moderator or not. I would think I would get an email at least.

Perry

CAFE.
 
I find it hilarious that half of you think 5w30 falls into the 'thick' oil catagory. It doesn't.

Xw30 oil is just 10% thicker than Xw20 oil at operating temps.

So, if Xw20 is too thin, that would mean Xw30 is BARELY adequate.

So, it isn't a 'thick vs thin' argument, but rather 'thin vs thinner'.

If you think thicker oil is going to give you better protection, by all means, run 20w50 and get maximum protection!
 
Originally Posted By: chainblu


If you think thicker oil is going to give you better protection, by all means, run 20w50 and get maximum protection!


Nope. That don't fly. Honda specs 5-30 around the globe, except in CAFE restricted USA. Here, Honda has said 5-20, 0-20 and is flirting with 0-16.

Honda did not ever say "20-50". Thats just something you just made up. That don't work.
 
Originally Posted By: Jake777
Let me just jump in and ask this question. Does everyone agree that the 20 weight would reduce average oil temperatures compared to the 30? If indeed they both provide solid protection wouldn't you want the cooler oil temps in summer?


If the 20 weight leads to lower coolant temps due to improved heat transfer, it also reduces the margin left in the fluid film before metal to metal contact occurs. There's a trade off that is dependent on your vehicle, driving style, etc. I prefer the thicker fluid film in summer.
 
I just bought a 2016 Mazda 3 with the SkyActiv 2.5 engine and saw this 0w-20 oil recommendation for US, Canada, and I believe Puerto Rico, and 5w-30 for everywhere else in North America. My best guess as to why this is I doubt that 0w-20 in readily available in Mexico and Central America but I do not know for sure. Maybe somebody from there can comment on that. Why is that, I my best guess is that there is little government pressure to increase MPG ratings and the average buyer is not going to notice or care much about the small improvement MGP. My feeling is for most people they are going to see little if any difference in engine life or longevity with between 0W-20 and 5w30 oils especially in warm and tropical climates. In very cold climates the 0W weights will make a difference with easier engine starting and maybe some meaningful difference in engine wear from easier starting as the oil gets to a more ideal operating viscosity quicker as the engine warms up.
 
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