Need oil suggestion for high mileage 2003 WRX

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As you will see by my post count, I'm pretty new here. I've read through several FAQ's and stickies and I'm slowly working my way towards understanding different terms/acronyms/etc. I need a motor oil suggestion for my car. I own a 2003 Subaru WRX with around 160k on it. It was consuming oil at a pretty large rate (previous owner was using M1 :/), and I've been running Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 for the past 3 oil changes at 3k or 4k intervals. Since switching to Amsoil, my consumption has gone down a good amount. I take long trips M-F (about 80 miles round trip) and I drive fairly conservatively. Every now and then I'll go WOT up the ramp onto the freeway, but not very often at all. I'm looking for an oil suggestion because Amsoil is pretty pricey and I know for the same price I can order some Motul 8100, from which I understand is a higher grade of oil than Amsoil. (bare with me).

Below is the list of suggested information I give out. Thanks for the help in advance! If I'm missing any info please do not hesitate to let me know. I've never received an UOA so this is about the most info I think I can give.

1. What kind of vehicle you have
-2003 Subaru WRX

2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well.
- API SL or SJ with the words "ENERGY CONSERVING", according to my manual. 5w-30 suggested viscosity.

3. Where you live
- I live in Wisconsin, sub-zero temps are not uncommon.

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
- Easy, consistent 70-80 MPH at 3k RPM daily, every now and then spirited driving (rare)

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
- Long trips, highway miles.

6. Whether your car has any known problems
- Previous oil consumption, oil smell (I think?) at high RPM's.
 
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 or Chevron Delo 400LE 5W-40 would be my suggestion during the colder months.

During the summer, I'd go with any quality 15W-40 such as Rotella, Delvac, Delo, or even Super Tech.

None of these options are expensive, and you can find them all at your local Walmart.
 
What does oil consumption mean. You don't state the rate?

That engine I used to own in 04 WRX it did not really care what you put into it including M1. The consumption
 
I would lose around 2 quarts or a little more with M1, fairly quickly too. (M1 would come out pretty dark) With Amsoil I have lost less than 1 over similar mileage. (still maintaining some degree of color)
 
Mobil 1 0w40 winter, Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 summer

Color of oil is not an indicator of life, if it's darker, then it has done a better job of cleaning.
 
I use Mobil 1 in one of my cars, zero consumption.
I used it in my other car and it definitely consumed more than the normal Pennzoil Platinum (none with that). It's engine by engine, sometimes.
 
Why is it that most Subaru owners go with T6? I'm not doubting their decision or the recommendations at all, I guess I'm just wondering why this is a thing.

Also, M1 for some reason does not work well with Subaru's. A lot of people on the forums seem to avoid it like no other. My experience was not good with it.

Also, that is good to know about the color of oil. It seemed to have a thickness to it too (with the M1). Is that also a sign of better cleaning?
 
Originally Posted By: Padawan
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 or Chevron Delo 400LE 5W-40 would be my suggestion during the colder months.

During the summer, I'd go with any quality 15W-40 such as Rotella, Delvac, Delo, or even Super Tech.

None of these options are expensive, and you can find them all at your local Walmart.



I second this suggestion. I wouldn't even worry about the 5w40. I definitely go with a thicker robust diesel oil. It will stop of slow oil usage and cold weather flow is really over thought.
 
I owned an 07' WRX. The owners manual states a thicker oil may be necessary in certain conditions. The old 2L WRX engines do not like 5W30 energy conserving oils period.
 
Quote:

Color of oil is not an indicator of life, if it's darker, then it has done a better job of cleaning.


Nor is it an indicator of cleaning.

My friend was running 12K OCI with T6 last time I checked on her 200x WRX (2.0L) A lot of highway miles however.
 
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T6 has a more aggressive additive package due to being formulated to handle diesel applications but it's also gasoline capable as well. In addition to that it's got a much higher HTHS viscosity which results in a thicker oil film safety net if you run it hard and hot. It would actually be somewhat too thick if you babied your car.
 
Originally Posted By: xmakeafistx
Why is it that most Subaru owners go with T6? I'm not doubting their decision or the recommendations at all, I guess I'm just wondering why this is a thing.

Also, M1 for some reason does not work well with Subaru's. A lot of people on the forums seem to avoid it like no other. My experience was not good with it.

Also, that is good to know about the color of oil. It seemed to have a thickness to it too (with the M1). Is that also a sign of better cleaning?

Mobil 1 is not a problem in Subaru's. It's a myth perpetuated by knuckleheads that modify their cars to 400 whp and continue to use GF-5 M1 5W30. And having used Amsoil SS xW-30 in the past, I would recommend something more robust.

I agree with the Mobil 1 0W40 and 10W40 recommendation, RT6 year 'round or M1/Castrol 0W40 year 'round if consumption isn't a problem. The common thing here is to look for something that is not GF-5 Resource Conserving as EJ's as happier on thicker oils and your manual allows 10W40 down to -4F.

RT6 developed a following on Subaru forums (and other enthusiast forums) because it's a robust oil that meets API SM specs and is a 5W40. Both recommendations in Subaru manuals pre-2011.

And
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
If it specs a 30,maybe give M1 10W30 HM a try?


I'm with you Aquariuscsm, I would try M1 10W-30 High Mileage. It's a full synthetic, which is always good for the heat of a turbo, plus it has a solid HTHS of 3.5 and healthy 1100 ppm Zinc.

The regular GF-5 M1 5W-30 has a HTHS of 3.1 and only 900 ppm Zinc.

These are two completely different oils.

I don't know how cold it gets in the OP's area, but 10W oils should be able to handle temps like -10F

Originally Posted By: BobFout

SAE J300 was revised some few years ago. 10W is now spec'd at -30C for pumping and -25C for cranking.
 
OK, you have 160,000 miles and an oil smell (occasionally...). That likely means a weep or a seep somewhere and it's getting on the exhaust. Maybe only a drop of two, but when you shut it off, it'll waft up and you'll smell it walking away.

So there may be two place (or more) that the oil is going. Some past the rings and guides, some weeping, and some slipping by the PCV Valve ...

With a 160K, I'd have no issues running Maxlife syn blend (red bottle) in 10W-30 or 40. 10 is thin enough to pump on start and 40 will be a tad thicker at run temp. The seal conditioners may help with the weep...

I'd for sure change the PCV and any related hoses that feel hard or brittle.

Your turning 3K on the highway, so you'll be making some real vacuum. My guess is that the valve seals are getting a little long in the tooth and passing a bit of oil. Not to worry, but it may be happening...

I'd get off AmsOil as it's too expensive for playing with. I'd run Rotella T-6 for one OCI and see what happens. If there is no change, try Maxlife the next round. After experimenting with a few, you'll hit on one with minimum oil consumption
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As long as you are changing that often, full syn is not really doing you a lot of good. Some well refined dino oils are very good and can do wonders when the meet the right motor.

I run HDEO's in a lot of vehicles including my turbo Saab 2.3 that have over 125,000 miles. My previous turbo Volvo went 287,000 before it would not pass smog and got donated. It still ran strong on Delo400.

If they are weeping or seeping, I usually try Maxlife to see if it will help. Sometimes yes, sometimes no difference ...
 
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