Disappointed with Accord after one Salt Exposure

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You ARE being overly picky. You'd think you were describing a 1977 Alfa Romeo that started rusting while sitting on the import dock in Baltimore. That was something to worry about.

I owned several Acuras and Hondas in Pennsylvania and never had a rust issue. I had a frozen brake caliper once from keeping an RL parked outside but never any rust.
 
I'm with you OP. It's not that it won't go the distance, it's just that it ought to be better than this. Some makers seem better at this rust game than others.

IMO, I'm surprised that the OEM's don't spend a bit more money on calipers, what with all the alloys out there which give one a good view of the caliper and other related hardware.
 
I noticed that myself on my 2010 Acura TL , corrosion on the aluminum parts as well. Must be a Honda thing! PS I would put a little antiseize on the rotor screws as well
 
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Don't know if anyone has experience with the quality of nuts and bolts on Honda's but on my 04 with 275K lot of rusty nuts and bolts I thought for sure would disintegrate when putting a wrench too were rock solid and came loose with little drama. I was surprised at the quality of the fasteners.
 
What's disappointing is that salt is still used on the roads...there are other non-corrosive chemicals they can use...quit destroying our vehicles!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

The white powder literally pouring out of the lug nuts really gets me though... Ned to find a protectant that doesn't affect the friction characteristics...


I'm not sure why you're worried about affecting the friction on the stud threads. Any product you put on the threads will affect the friction. There is no way around it, some products will affect it more and some less, but the friction characteristics will be affected. Also, since you're concerned, that salt and corrosion also affected the friction on the threads. It increased it and this leads to a potentially under-torqued wheel nuts. Of course most people are concerned about over-torqueing, but the opposite can have much more disastrous consequences.

Simply lower the torque value for the nuts and the issue is solved. A 20% lower torque value is a good "rule of thumb" for lubed threads. I've been doing it on my Mazda 3 for the past 10 years and the stud threads look brand new, with no signs of deformation that over-torqued fasteners normally show (I use 80ft-lb).
 
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when I get a new car I usually go to Walmart and buy 5-10 cans of rustoleum rustproofing and do the entire bottom of the car when it's new. That usually buys me an extra 5 years or more.
 
A guy at work has the start of rust on his 1 year old $70k Ford F350 diesel.

This is why I will never pay the premium price for a new vehicle while living in New England. The salt is ridiculous. People should learn to drive and buy snow tires. My friend's dad is a retired state DOT worker. He said they had to wear hazmat suits when loading the trucks with this stuff, and that the brake lines would rust out on plow trucks.
 
Your being a bit picky those parts are cast and not really finished they will corrode a bit. The transmission case OTOH is [censored], it shouldn't look like that within 6 months.

On the flip side the new pre treat they spray on the highways is brutal, just wait a few years if you do a lot of highway travel!
 
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Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
A guy at work has the start of rust on his 1 year old $70k Ford F350 diesel.

This is why I will never pay the premium price for a new vehicle while living in New England. The salt is ridiculous. People should learn to drive and buy snow tires. My friend's dad is a retired state DOT worker. He said they had to wear hazmat suits when loading the trucks with this stuff, and that the brake lines would rust out on plow trucks.


Yep, up in VT trucks like that are essentially totaled in 5 winters if they are used like plow trucks. I have seen 2011 F450's where the frame looked like it had been living on the bottom of LIS since new. The truck looked pretty but was essentially a plow pig, its not worth fixing.

Those guys must make a lot of money to be able to eat about $15k a year on a new F450 fully rigged.

Heck our city has dump trucks they never clean out that go for around $120k new and are more or less shot.

If I lived up north I'd lease a truck, I wouldn't buy it.
 
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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

The white powder literally pouring out of the lug nuts really gets me though... Ned to find a protectant that doesn't affect the friction characteristics...


I'm not sure why you're worried about affecting the friction on the stud threads. Any product you put on the threads will affect the friction. There is no way around it, some products will affect it more and some less, but the friction characteristics will be affected. Also, since you're concerned, that salt and corrosion also affected the friction on the threads. It increased it and this leads to a potentially under-torqued wheel nuts. Of course most people are concerned about over-torqueing, but the opposite can have much more disastrous consequences.

Simply lower the torque value for the nuts and the issue is solved. A 20% lower torque value is a good "rule of thumb" for lubed threads. I've been doing it on my Mazda 3 for the past 10 years and the stud threads look brand new, with no signs of deformation that over-torqued fasteners normally show (I use 80ft-lb).



Agree. FWIW I used to grease studs when I lived in WV and never had an issue with them coming loose. Just tighten em up good n tight w/4 way and you're good. Don't over think this.
 
Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz
I owned several Acuras and Hondas in Pennsylvania and never had a rust issue. I had a frozen brake caliper once from keeping an RL parked outside but never any rust.


From previous posts I believe the Accord in question sits outside all the time as well. As long as body panels aren't rusting away the OP is fine. I had a 10 yr old Accord that I kept clean and was rust free when I sold it. The car lived it's entire life in the rust belt.
 
Originally Posted By: grampi
What's disappointing is that salt is still used on the roads...there are other non-corrosive chemicals they can use...quit destroying our vehicles!


Can they be used for the same price (or even close to the same price?) What are their external effects?

To be blunt, salt continues to be used because of the public's demand for bare roads in a short period of time. To do that, salt is the most cost effective means of doing so. If there were other products that met the public demand for bare pavement at the same cost, we'd have switched to it long ago. And you should patent whatever magic elixir you know about, because you would be a very wealthy man.

And I say that as part of a team that makes those decisions at my place of employment. We are charged with reducing the amount of salt we use for a variety of reasons (which we do by using pre-treatment on our onboard dispensers with vraious types of additives. Currently using a beet juice type product applied to the salt)

The reality is until the public changes its expectations for level of service in snow and ice removal, salt will continue to be used.
 
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Is your Accord hybrid made in Japan or US?


Looks like US built.

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Some may know that Honda is spooling up production of a bunch of gas cars in the USA, and moving ALL hybrid production to Japan, seemingly to get some better economies of scale or move parts closer to production.
 
Originally Posted By: MNgopher
Originally Posted By: grampi
What's disappointing is that salt is still used on the roads...there are other non-corrosive chemicals they can use...quit destroying our vehicles!


Can they be used for the same price (or even close to the same price?) What are their external effects?

To be blunt, salt continues to be used because of the public's demand for bare roads in a short period of time. To do that, salt is the most cost effective means of doing so. If there were other products that met the public demand for bare pavement at the same cost, we'd have switched to it long ago. And you should patent whatever magic elixir you know about, because you would be a very wealthy man.

And I say that as part of a team that makes those decisions at my place of employment. We are charged with reducing the amount of salt we use for a variety of reasons (which we do by using pre-treatment on our onboard dispensers with vraious types of additives. Currently using a beet juice type product applied to the salt)

The reality is until the public changes its expectations for level of service in snow and ice removal, salt will continue to be used.


Urea can be used instead of salt and it's non-toxic. No idea about the cost, but even if it costs more, wouldn't it be worth the extra cost not to ruin everyone's vehicles?
 
So those lugs didn't have some sort of paste like anti-sieze applied to them before? Seems like an awful lot of buildup.

I've been applying anti-sieze to the lugs on our all of our vehicles. There was a paper someone once referenced on here regarding helicopter main rotor drive plate bolt failures. It's been a while since I looked through it but I recall the authors concluding that anti-sieze could be used on the threaded portion of bolts as long as no excess was squeezed onto the the nut face or bolt base. Antisieze on the nut face or bolt base lead to overload during tightening causing later failure.

I've been applying a very thin coat on our lugs with a small arts/craft brush from the hobby store. Haven't snapped or striped a lug yet.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
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I think those are McGard locking lugs.


They sure are. McGard makes a lot of wheel locks for OEM. I worked for McGard a long time ago. In QA no less! Great company.

In regards to the chassis and brake rust shown, I've seen worse on brand new cars sitting in dealer lots. Steel and cast iron chassis parts seem to never have enough protective coating on them from the OEM.
 
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