This filter will be for my 2013 Acura TL. I ran the Acura OEM to 18,000 miles and ran a K&N drop in air filter to 23,000. The anti K&N folks have beaten me into submission and I'm going to pull it this week. I live in Southern California and although the temperatures reach 100 degrees, it is not very dusty. My intention is to run this car to 200K miles and I need it to last that long, which is why I am so concerned with the quality of clean air this engine will receive. What paper engine air filter element do YOU recommend and why?
What paper engine air filter do YOU recommend?
- Thread starter Georgiey22
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OEM, Fram, Purolator, or better yet, Donaldson if they have it for your model.
oem is usually a good bet i have been using Motorcraft air filters and they seem to fit and look good
I see Denso, Hastings, Mahle, Fram, and Wix available for your car on Rock Auto. I'd use any of these without hesitation.
I would also have no problems picking one up from the dealer.
I would also have no problems picking one up from the dealer.
Any real name brand filter will work perfectly fine. I typically just look for the cheapest name brand.
Fram Toughguard or Wix/Napa Gold for paper media or OEM if it uses a special media (ie: toyota's cotton media or nissan's oiled paper media.)
Are the Acura OEM filters oiled? Before I threw my factory filter out, I didn't bother to look?
It appears that there are a lot of folks that prefer the Wix/Napa Gold air filters. There are a few different resellers in the area that I can get those filters from.
Does anyone have formal documentation to which brands have better filtration capabilities?
It appears that there are a lot of folks that prefer the Wix/Napa Gold air filters. There are a few different resellers in the area that I can get those filters from.
Does anyone have formal documentation to which brands have better filtration capabilities?
Fram and change it every 20-30k
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Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
I like Wix/NAPA Gold.
This. My 2010 FX4 saw a significant reduction in silicon by switching from MC filters to NAPA Gold.
I like Wix/NAPA Gold.
This. My 2010 FX4 saw a significant reduction in silicon by switching from MC filters to NAPA Gold.
Originally Posted By: Georgiey22
The anti K&N folks have beaten me into submission and I'm going to pull it this week.
Unless I saw a high silicone number I wouldn't remove anything. I have a Spectre filter on my CTS-V, which is a practically a K&N knock off, my Silicone numbers are 30% below average.
The anti K&N folks have beaten me into submission and I'm going to pull it this week.
Unless I saw a high silicone number I wouldn't remove anything. I have a Spectre filter on my CTS-V, which is a practically a K&N knock off, my Silicone numbers are 30% below average.
I just find whatever brand name is least expensive, and change it every 20,000 or 30,000 miles. I don't have to worry about clean/oiling or the potential pitfalls of either, nor do I worry about silicone numbers (I don't waste money on UOAs).
I have a spectre k&n knock off on the Camry in my Sig. Car runs normal. I would leave the k&n and clean it every 50-60k miles
Fram or Wix/Napa Gold. The ones for my cars, anyway, have very soft gaskets that seal well. Plus, plenty of pleats.
Originally Posted By: MinamiKotaro
Fram or Wix/Napa Gold. The ones for my cars, anyway, have very soft gaskets that seal well. Plus, plenty of pleats.
Yah that perfectly describes the STP filters I use. My interval is to make it part of the baseline process.Then include it in the 60K timing belt refresh. I have a friend who is closing on 600k in his 85 535i. He knocks the filter against the bottom of his shoe every so often.
Fram or Wix/Napa Gold. The ones for my cars, anyway, have very soft gaskets that seal well. Plus, plenty of pleats.
Yah that perfectly describes the STP filters I use. My interval is to make it part of the baseline process.Then include it in the 60K timing belt refresh. I have a friend who is closing on 600k in his 85 535i. He knocks the filter against the bottom of his shoe every so often.
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