New CarQuest R85372-A43301 cut open

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In the quest to find a similarly priced alternative to Motorcraft FL-820S I decided to cut one of these open for an initial inspection.


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CQ R85372-A43301 exterior #1. Good looking appearance from the exterior.

Nice heft to the filter also. I believe the date code is A43301 but I do not know the date code format.


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CQ R85372-A43301 base end - dome end bpv #2. View of the thread end and showing the dome end BPV. No rust anywhere in this filter.


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CQ R85372-A43301 filter element #1. You can see the splice on this shot and several wide pleat spacings on either side. I counted 10 wide pleat spaces ranging from 1/4" to 3/4". The 1/2" to 3/4" pleat spaces might be a problem but the embossed media and filter geometry might fix this.


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CQ R85372-A43301 filter element #2. Another wide pleat space on this sector. If you look closely, the epoxy is pooling up on the thread end cap.


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CQ R85372-A43301 filter element #3. Nice pleat spacing in this sector.


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CQ R85372-A43301 filter element #4. More wide pleat spacing in this sector.


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CQ R85372-A43301 dome end bypass. The dome end bypass appears to be made of nitrile rubber and does yield to finger nail pressure. I do not have a spring gauge to check the spring tension. It does operate smoothly.


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CQ R85372-A43301 nitrile ADBV. Thread end of the filter with the Nitrile ADBV. Shot of the metal inner tube.


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CQ R85372-A43301 nitrile ADBV #2. More accurately shows the dome end Relief Valve. If you look closely, you can see the almost deburred inlet holes are cutting into the ADBV. I don't think this will be an issue.


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CQ R85372-A43301 dome end BPV. Clear shot of the center tube and dome end Relief Valve.


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CQ R85372-A43301 nitrile ADBV very pliable. This is a very pliable and soft ADBV. It is much softer than the Champ PH820 I cut earlier. The ADBV may work better in this model because of the softness until it hardens with time and temperature.

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CQ R85372-A43301 thin epoxy top cap. Demonstrates the thin but even amount of epoxy on the dome end cap. Also irregular pleat spacing. Note, this is the splice and nicely embossed media.


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CQ R85372-A43301 pooled epoxy bottom cap. Clearly shows the pooled epoxy on the threaded end cap. Nice thick embossed media. Also a wide pleat space on left. I doubt the pooled epoxy is an issue. Other than it subtracts from the usable filter area.

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CQ R85372-A43301 inside view base plate. The inside of the base plate was not as smooth as the one on the PH820. However, it may be sufficiently deburred to not cause an issue.


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CQ R85372-A43301 embossed filter media. This media is relatively tough. It took awhile to dissect the filter using a utility knife. It is embossed which I think strengthens the media.


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CQ R85372-A43301 metal core spliced. This is a tough metal center tube. Splice looked good to me.


Number of pleats: 41 pleats including the spice
Filter cartridge height: 3" to 3 1/16"
2x pleat depth: 1 11/16"
Effective pleat width: 3" - 0.25" = 2.75"
Filter area: 1 11/16" x 41 x 2.75" = 190.3"
Number of wide spaces from 1/4" to 3/4": 10
Number of holes in the center tube: 95
Center tube hole diameter: 7/64"
Center tube hole area for 95 holes: 0.893 sq in.

In my view this filter may operate perfectly fine. However, I can not prove it with this cut and post.

I could not rip the end caps from the core and all the pleats were solidly glued to the end caps.

With a filter that is a bit longer than the PH820 and embossed media, this media may resist tearing in spite of the wide pleat spaces.

In order to finish the evaluation, it would have to go on a vehicle and checked at the end of the OCI.

So, if you are using a CQ R85372, I would encourage you to cut it open and the end of your next oil change and give us a report.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Great entry level filter, it's 94% efficient at 20 microns by the way


If I did not have so many other filters in my stash, I would run it a whole 5000 and check it. Maybe someone else will jump on it.

They are similarly priced to the Motorcraft FL-820S.

Originally Posted By: JC1
Thanks for posting!


You are welcome.
 
This is one of the finest cut and post I've seen yet. What a great job with pictures, detailed notes, and attention to detail. Rock on there welloiled. This is outstanding.

I may well use a Carquest red filter on my car coming up due to this.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
This is one of the finest cut and post I've seen yet. What a great job with pictures, detailed notes, and attention to detail. Rock on there welloiled. This is outstanding.

I may well use a Carquest red filter on my car coming up due to this.


Thanks to all for the feedback.

After having issues with the MC FL-820S, I am a bit concerned about wide pleat spacing. Those are the places where tears might occur.

A used filter cut and paste after 5000 miles would be good to have.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Great entry level filter, it's 94% efficient at 20 microns by the way


Multi pass ?
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
A43301

A - Greenville, OH
4 - 2014
330 - 330th day of the year (November 26, 2014)
1 - first shift


Perfect. AAP's storage must be good and/or CQ rust inhibitor is good. Thanks.
 
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The pleat spacing is fine. I believe champion labs is making these now but they build them much better than the fram extra or tough guards.
 
Besides the wide pleats on this one, the one thing I see is possibly off center inlet holes, leading to a razor thin sealing edge between the clean and dirty side. Combined with the nub centering method, it is an area I don't think is the best on Frams. The sealing area is also quite rough on this and the other ones I have seen. They do the job I guess as long as that sealing lip doesn't go over an inlet hole and bypass oil. The sealing area is already a very thin line around the inlet holes, needs to be quite precisely made. Very great and informative information and pictures, thanks for cutting and time/money spent.
 
WellOiled - nice write-up, photos and analysis.

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Besides the wide pleats on this one, the one thing I see is possibly off center inlet holes, leading to a razor thin sealing edge between the clean and dirty side. Combined with the nub centering method, it is an area I don't think is the best on Frams. The sealing area is also quite rough on this and the other ones I have seen. They do the job I guess as long as that sealing lip doesn't go over an inlet hole and bypass oil. The sealing area is already a very thin line around the inlet holes, needs to be quite precisely made. Very great and informative information and pictures, thanks for cutting and time/money spent.


If you look at the ADBV you can see the impression of one side of each of the 8 inlet holes, and the thin "sealing ring" as you pointed out. I does look like it was sealing well, but a little concerned that about 1/3 of each inlet hole seemed to be covered up by the ADBV.
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Besides the wide pleats on this one, the one thing I see is possibly off center inlet holes, leading to a razor thin sealing edge between the clean and dirty side. Combined with the nub centering method, it is an area I don't think is the best on Frams. The sealing area is also quite rough on this and the other ones I have seen. They do the job I guess as long as that sealing lip doesn't go over an inlet hole and bypass oil. The sealing area is already a very thin line around the inlet holes, needs to be quite precisely made. Very great and informative information and pictures, thanks for cutting and time/money spent.


That is a good observation. Also a problem that is easily missed. The filter would just bypass.

Thanks.
 
I currently have the CQ Blue 84502 on my Explorer. I will C&P that one when it's ready. I currently have an M1-212 draining that I will cut soon as well.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
WellOiled - nice write-up, photos and analysis.

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Besides the wide pleats on this one, the one thing I see is possibly off center inlet holes, leading to a razor thin sealing edge between the clean and dirty side. Combined with the nub centering method, it is an area I don't think is the best on Frams. The sealing area is also quite rough on this and the other ones I have seen. They do the job I guess as long as that sealing lip doesn't go over an inlet hole and bypass oil. The sealing area is already a very thin line around the inlet holes, needs to be quite precisely made. Very great and informative information and pictures, thanks for cutting and time/money spent.


If you look at the ADBV you can see the impression of one side of each of the 8 inlet holes, and the thin "sealing ring" as you pointed out. I does look like it was sealing well, but a little concerned that about 1/3 of each inlet hole seemed to be covered up by the ADBV.


The ADBV is very pliable. When it wets with oil, I think it will seal well. For how long I do not know.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
WellOiled - nice write-up, photos and analysis.

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Besides the wide pleats on this one, the one thing I see is possibly off center inlet holes, leading to a razor thin sealing edge between the clean and dirty side. Combined with the nub centering method, it is an area I don't think is the best on Frams. The sealing area is also quite rough on this and the other ones I have seen. They do the job I guess as long as that sealing lip doesn't go over an inlet hole and bypass oil. The sealing area is already a very thin line around the inlet holes, needs to be quite precisely made. Very great and informative information and pictures, thanks for cutting and time/money spent.


If you look at the ADBV you can see the impression of one side of each of the 8 inlet holes, and the thin "sealing ring" as you pointed out. I does look like it was sealing well, but a little concerned that about 1/3 of each inlet hole seemed to be covered up by the ADBV.


I do see that and on the one I cut open as well. On the overhead baseplate picture, the right side inlet holes are closer to the sealing point than the left side, appx right and left. It seems the hole edge is right at or into the seal area to me. I guess it is tested and will seal the psi usually seen for bypass pressure. I think it could be done better in that area though. Welcome to the modern world, we will pick at and pick apart everything anyone makes, and talk about it too, with pictures.
 
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Great entry level filter, it's 94% efficient at 20 microns by the way


Multi pass ?


Yes that's the ISO 4548-12 efficiency as all champ/Fram filters are posted with.

By the way the CARQUEST blue is 99% @20 microns
 
I really like this filter at the current price point(especially with advance coupon codes!)....I hope the blue cq show just as well...Nice job Welloiled!
 
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Originally Posted By: Shellguy
I really like this filter at the current price point(especially with advance coupon codes!)....I hope the blue cq show just as well...Nice job Welloiled!


Who sells the CQ Blue? I have actually not seen one in person.
 
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