2013 Silverado 1500 5.3 Liter Oil Problems

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My mechanic replaced the oil pressure sensor and the screen below it on my 2013 Silverado 1500 (5.3 liter) after the check engine light came on saying the oil pressure sensor had an issue. He removed the intake and inspected everything while he was doing it. The check engine light came back on after about 20 minutes of driving. He cleared the code again and I got 20 more minutes in before the check engine light came back on again. I'm taking it back to the garage tomorrow. Any ideas what's going on with this thing? I haven't gotten any low oil warnings or shutdown warnings and the pressure gauge holds pretty steady at 25ish pounds. I'm stumped and [censored] that a 3 year old truck can have this many problems. I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.
 
Do you know the code? Is it something like oil pressure sensor circuit integrity or something?

Might be wiring. Lots of mechanics assume sensors are bad without checking circuit integrity.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Lots of mechanics assume sensors are bad without checking circuit integrity.


What ? Wires never break; you know that don't you ?
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Do you know the code? Is it something like oil pressure sensor circuit integrity or something?

Might be wiring. Lots of mechanics assume sensors are bad without checking circuit integrity.


Sounds like that might be the culprit. Broken wires, loose or bad connectors, or worn wire insulation. Had it happen to a few cars of mine over the years.
 
He's treating this like you've got a sludged engine. Have you maintained it poorly?
 
That pressure sensor was most likely the problem and a 20 minute fix. Why did he remove the intake? Buy your own sensor next time. They are available with a lifetime warranty. They go bad a lot.
 
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.


Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"

My reply: "Sorry you're out of a customer"

I would recommend you fix the sensor and trade it on an F150 or a Tundra
 
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Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.


Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"



Were you over the time period of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty? Otherwise, I don't understand why you had to pay for a failed differential.
 
Originally Posted By: 6starprez
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.


Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"



Were you over the time period of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty? Otherwise, I don't understand why you had to pay for a failed differential.



The dealership "boned" this guy, NOT GM. The powertrain warranty covers this axle repair and if the owner read the owner's manual and warranty section he would know. You have to be informed in today's world.

Here is an example of the powertrain warranty:


Powertrain Coverage

The powertrain is covered for 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first, except for other coverages listed here under “What is Covered” and those items listed under “What is Not Covered” later in this section.

Engine Coverage includes: All internally lubricated parts, engine oil cooling hoses, lines and radiators. Also included are all actuators and electrical components internal to the engine (i.e.: Active Fuel Management Valve Lifter Oil Manifold, etc.) cylinder head, block, timing gears, timing chain, timing cover, oil pump/oil pump housing, OHC carriers, valve covers, oil pan, seals, gaskets, manifolds, flywheel, water pump, harmonic balancer, engine mount, turbocharger and supercharger. Timing belts are covered until the first scheduled maintenance interval.

Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, coolant and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded is the starter motor, entire pressurized fuel system (in-tank fuel pump, pressure lines, fuel rail(s), regulator, injectors and return line) as well as the Engine/Powertrain Control Module and/or module programming.

Transmission/Transaxle Coverage includes: All internally lubricated parts, case, torque converter, mounts, seals and gaskets as well as any electrical components internal to the transmission/transaxle. Also covered are any actuators directly connected to the transmission (slave cylinder, etc.).

Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are transmission cooling lines, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring and electrical connectors. Also excluded are the clutch and pressure plate as well as any Transmission Control Module and/or module programming.

Transfer Case Coverage includes: All internally lubricated parts, case, mounts, seals and gaskets as well as any electrical components internal to the transfer case. Also covered are any actuators directly connected to the transfer case as well as encoder motor.

Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are transfer case cooling lines, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring, electrical connectors as well as the transfer case control module and/or module programming.

Drive Systems Coverage includes: All internally lubricated parts, final drive housings, axle shafts and bearings, constant velocity joints, propeller shafts and universal joints. All mounts, supports, seals, gaskets as well as any electrical components internal to the drive axle. Also covered are any actuators directly connected to the drive axle (i.e.: front differential actuator, etc.).

Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are all wheel bearings, drive wheel front and rear hub bearings, locking hubs, drive system cooling, lines, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring and electrical connectors related to drive systems as well as any drive system control module and/or module programming.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCQEdXYTGQ

yeehaw this video may not apply in your case. The part from 4:30 to 6:30 talks about the hanging oil pressure relief valve.

We were getting low oil pressure warning light. We thought it may have been the sending unit on our 2003 GM 5.3L in the truck because it was leaking but it was our pressure relief valve hanging when it was hot the best I would figure out.

It started right after an oil change and some WOT take offs my me. It was and still is the wife's daily driver. Thankfully cold it would start and show good oil pressure but on shut off when hot it was was hit or miss if we would have oil pressure. I think I was driving the pressure relief valve beyond its normal range of travel with the WOT (wide open throttle) causing it to hang when hot. The spring I guess was able to close the valve when the aluminum housing would cool down.

I put in 8 oz of Seafoam into the crankcase and ran that for 300 miles while we were waiting for the new pressure sending unit. It was 'fixed' by the time NAPA got us the new sending unit.

Now we keep Archoil AR9100 in the crankcase after each oil change in all of our gas and diesel engines.

Hope you find your issue. We bought our truck in 2010 with 102K miles. The engine was kind of dirty on the inside. The oil change at 300 mile running Seafoam came out really black and thin. For the first time only we did go back with 10W-40 Mobil 1 synthetic High Mileage motor oil. That is some slick stuff with heavy duty cleaning power.

Different people have different views of Archoil products. We are on our second gallon of Archoil AR9100 crankcase additive (Ford diesel guys are big on it for stiction) and our first quart of AR6200 fuel additive.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: 6starprez
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.


Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"



Were you over the time period of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty? Otherwise, I don't understand why you had to pay for a failed differential.



The dealership "boned" this guy, NOT GM. The powertrain warranty covers this axle repair and if the owner read the owner's manual and warranty section he would know. You have to be informed in today's world.


Ah, I see.

Also, sometimes you have to go over the dealership's head. When I was under warranty, I had to call Subaru of America on two separate occasions after the service department tried to stick me with the bill. They were wrong and SOA took care of it.
 
That's the heck of it. The oil pressure reads about where it has since I bought the truck new. It starts at the 40 line, then moves down toward the 25 or so mark after it warms up. there isn't any engine noise that hasn't been there since new. The needle moves up and down a little and almost noticeably, but the service engine light keeps coming back on 20 minutes of driving after it's reset.

If the guys at the garage down the street believe it's inside the pan, I'll pay whatever the deductible is under the 5 year/100,000 mile drive train warranty and have the dealer work on it.

I'm really very, very unhappy about this newer truck presenting with all these problems. The guys at the garage told me the engine was three quarts low on oil when he had it last. I couldn't believe it because it was changed not long ago. He explained that I have the old style valve cover with the PCV valve on it that lets an excessive amount of oil out into the carburetor to burn. What next?!?
 
Originally Posted By: 6starprez
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.


Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"



Were you over the time period of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty? Otherwise, I don't understand why you had to pay for a failed differential.


3 years 36000 in 2006
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: 6starprez
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
I'm 1800 miles out of my bumper to bumper warranty.


Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"



Were you over the time period of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty? Otherwise, I don't understand why you had to pay for a failed differential.



The dealership "boned" this guy, NOT GM. The powertrain warranty covers this axle repair and if the owner read the owner's manual and warranty section he would know. You have to be informed in today's world.



I went to 4 GM and GMC dealers...then the zone rep.

GM boned me...you don't know what you are talking about.

I called GM HQ 7 times...."Sorry" F-GM they are the absolute worst
 
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Company I worked for ran chevy express 1500 cargo vans, in 2008 they put me in a brand new one. Well, 400 miles new. 2nd day I had it, heard a clank sound then metalic dragging sound under the van. Tried to pull off on side road but the van seemed to be in neutral. I coasted to a driveway and go out to see what was going on. Rear side of driveshaft laying on the ground pinion yolk and u-joint still intact. Flames and smoke coming from the pinion opening in the housing. Towed the van to a dealership and supposedly GM denied the warranty claim because "driver should have heard the rear end was making odd noises and not driven vehicle". I dont think the axle was ever filled with oil.
The company bent over and paid for a new rear axle assembly.
 
Good luck....on my last ($57,000) Denali GM boned me for a bad front diff at 40,000 miles.($3500)...the oil was burned black and had a pound of shavings stuck to the drain bolt magnet...."Sorry you're out of warranty"[/quote]


Were you over the time period of the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty? Otherwise, I don't understand why you had to pay for a failed differential.[/quote]


The dealership "boned" this guy, NOT GM. The powertrain warranty covers this axle repair and if the owner read the owner's manual and warranty section he would know. You have to be informed in today's world.

[/quote]

I went to 4 GM and GMC dealers...then the zone rep.

GM boned me...you don't know what you are talking about.

I called GM HQ 7 times...."Sorry" F-GM they are the absolute worst [/quote]

[color:#CC0000]My apologies - you did not state the model year until now. I figured it was atleast a 2010+ model. I own a 2006 Sierra Denali and it's been the best truck for me. I do know what I am talking about - just didn't know it was an older model before long powertrain warranties came about.[/color]
 
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Anecdotal stories exist about virtually any car on the road, no matter the brand.

"My friend had a..."

"Supposedly the warranty was denied..."

No story that isolates a particular event indicates any trend for or against any particular manufacturer. This is the Net, where hyperbole abounds and facts are few.
 
The more I research about the foibles of Dodge and Ford the less I think about trading into one of them. I guess all brands of newer trucks have more then a few cases of them giving the owner's fits. On to Nissan?
 
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