Input from Diesel truck owners

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I was hoping to get some unbiased opinions on diesel trucks here. Hard to get good feed back on the Ford,Dodge and duramax forms.I've got a 1996 7.3 powerstroke with 322,000. Still runs great.I've been kicking around moving up 6 to 10 years or so.But going on these forms and reading about some of the problems these owners have with these trucks is SCARY.Especially Ford.Its hard me me to believe you spend 40-50 K on a truck,then you have to put another 8 K to bulletproof so it will run.INSANE.From what I read on the Ford forums the 6.0 and 6.4 are nothing but junk?I am leaning towards a 2003-2007 Cummings.From what I've read they are pretty good engines?
So Diesel owners tell me the pros and cons about your Diesel truck...
Thanks
 
I see people buying and rebuilding older diesels a lot more than I used to.

It's a status symbol to have a 12v Cummins here. 6spds are priced above $25,000 regardless of mileage.

It must beat the alternative to buying new.
 
Originally Posted By: CHARLIEBRONSON21
I've personally worked on a few 7.3L fords that have over a million miles. I mean it's entirely up to you, but why do you want to get a new one?

Mainly just wanting something a little nicer.Mine is a 3/4 ton with a flatbed.Was really wanting to get back to a reg. bed.
 
Find a regular bed for your truck. Update the interior. LOL I can understand where you are coming from. The 7.3s are hard to beat. If I were you I would at least keep your old truck as "Backup" for when the new one is down.
 
I would avoid the 6.0 and 6.4 at all costs. The Cummins is ok but...its wrapped in a Dodge which is bad news...and I've owned one. Worst *truck* of the bunch quality wise. I'd look at the 7.3 or used Duramax trucks. 7.3 is the best diesel you can own but good luck finding a clean used one. If you can swing it go to a gas truck...all troubles will be behind you. If I couldn't find a good used 7.3 and couldn't get by with a gas motor I'd buy a G.M

No offense intended towards anyone's equipment
 
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Originally Posted By: DemoFly
I see people buying and rebuilding older diesels a lot more than I used to.

It's a status symbol to have a 12v Cummins here. 6spds are priced above $25,000 regardless of mileage.

It must beat the alternative to buying new.


They cost $70,000 grand and are too complicated. Defeats the whole purpose of a diesel.
 
From what I have seen and experienced they all have problems. My Duramax work truck is on its third set of injectors at 142k miles. My old Dodge was falling apart around the Cummins. My 6.4 has gratuitous power and torque with the tune, but gets 12mpg around town and 17mpg freeway on a good day. They are hit-and-miss when it comes to finding a good one. Catastrophic internal failure does occur when the 6.4 is pushed hard or not maintained properly. By 2007 most of the issues were corrected in the 6.0. I can't stand IFS in a truck so I didn't shop GM for my personal truck. 2006+ Duramax is probably the best power train going right now.

Whatever you decide, have it thoroughly inspected. Too many people neglect maintenance on Diesels due to cost, and the newer the motor, the more critical it becomes.
 
Had a 6.4, no real issues, done dog delete. Traded it in on a 2011 hemi 2500. Put a set of 35's on it. Thing was gutless, 4 low would power out trying to climb hills with a 5k trailer on. Traded it for a 2013 6.7 Ford that I said I wasn't gonna tune. Def tank heater gave out and cost of repair was over ,2g so I went and deleted it all. Running an sct tuner on performance tune, the thing is awesome.

Cost me $1200 a month, which sucks, until some little rice burner at a light wants to race and I leave him a huge cloud of black smoke. The thing will chirp the tires between 5th and ,6ya gear on the highway.

We have a 13 cumming at work, the thing is horrible. Constantly searching gears. Seems to have more power when you upshift it and get the rpms down. And kg sounds like a tractor
 
He did say diesel owners.... not diesel opinions.

I've owned my 07 Sierra Classic for 4 years with no complaints. Pull a small 5th wheel and other trailers quite a bit. Have done 750 mile days, the truck is so comfortable to drive and ride in. It seems the duramax of choice is the 06-07 LBZ. The EGR can be troublesome, lots of guys block or delete it. After 07 came the soot box then DEF.

Young fella next door has owned all three and likes the ride and drive of the GM best, and the power of the dodge, but his are modded..

Every guy I know who owns or has owned the dodge says they bought it for the Cummins not the truck. FWIW


There do seem to be preferred years in all three.
 
I own a decent size wrecker company and switched my fleet completely to ford gas V10s F450 / 550 / 650. More reliable than the diesels, quieter, almost same fuel efficiency, less expensive to buy and maintain and will last equally as long as the diesels for my purposes. 300-400k miles.

I will also say I have owned every brand of truck chassis from Dodge to Ford to Chevy to International to Izuzu to Misubishi and the Fords bar none hold up the best day in and day out as a wrcker. We abuse the crud out of them and they ask for more. Both the Chevys and Dodges just couldn't handle being in the wrecker fleet. I have meticulous records.

Before I get flamed I don't care what brand trucks I run. I'm all about the profit. I am not brand loyal. I run what gets results. My personal daily driver truck for years was always a new Ram Quad Cab. Nice truck. Just a joke when it comes to doing real work.

I really urge you to go gas. BTW the next truck I buy shortly will be number 84.
 
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Run run run from any Ford 6.0 and 6.4 unless you feel lucky and have many many $k just sitting around.
 
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We have had Chevy 6.5, GMC 6.6 Duramax, Ford 7.3 and 6.0 in our fleet of 1 Ton chassis school buses over the past 20 years.

I would have to need a diesel really bad for some serious work before I would want one in a personal vehicle. The newer ones are so emission controlled that they are problematic and VERY expensive to repair.

If I just had to have one in a new truck I would go with GM Duramax. If I could go back in time it would be a Ford 7.3.
 
I cannot speak to the Cummins or Duramax or for that matter the 6.0 and 6.4 Powerstrokes (except for what I read in the various forums, which I take with a grain of salt as it seems that you do). I have a 2015 6.7L Gen 2 Powerstroke with 9K miles on it. I did tons of research before deciding to go with a diesel and a Powerstroke on top of it. I can say that if there is a weakness in the 2011-2016 Powerstrokes, it is in the fuel filter system.

The WIF (water in fuel) sensor and fuel filter system in general is just not well designed (as compared to previous years). All of the massive repair bills that I have seen discussed focus exclusively on damage caused by water in the fuel and Ford refusing to repair said damage. I will likely add an aftermarket fuel filter system BEFORE the OEM filter so that I can prevent water in the fuel.

Aside from this issue, I feel confident that if diesel maintenance routines (not gasoline routines because they are not the same) are followed that problems will be minimized. I will be adding after market filters to some of the other systems on the truck, but these are more from a "desired or maintenance simplification" scenario versus attempting to circumvent a design shortcoming.

The only other thing that comes to mind is the emissions on the 2007+ trucks are maximized and with that comes other things to consider. First and foremost--DEF systems, DPF systems, and EGR. At some point the DPF system will have to be replaced. It is expensive to replace and that fact coupled with the need to mess with DEF is why some owners choose to delete the emissions systems in their entirety. I, for one, prefer to breathe cleaner air and have no desire to roll coal (which in IMHO is stupid to say the least). So I know that I will need to replace my DPF, but that is part of the cost of owning a modern diesel.

Hope this helps!
 
double post
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I think the 7.3 is the crème de la crème of diesels, followed by 2nd generation Cummins (THERE IS NO G) . I love my LBZ Duramax, pretty bullet proof and no DEF !
 
My neighbor has a sign business and is pushing 500k on his 99 7.3 f250. it leaks like crazy but who cares, it still does the job.
 
OOOhhhhh..... The interwebs are a scary place. All those stories about the 6.0. All those problems! I have an 03 F350 with one of those ugly terrible motors. Not a spec of trouble, not a burp, or a hint of indigestion. The majority of 6.0 stories you read are from guys that say, "hey I put this tuner on", and "I was pullin this 15k trailer over the great divide at 70 MPH, and she overheated..."!" Yes, the torque to yield head bolts can be problematic if cylinder pressure is increased substantially. Yes, the oil cooler can be another sore spot if maintenance is not carried out. Yes, the EGR cooler can be a problem... they are in Dmax, and others as well. The FICM can go boink... usually a 180. power supply fixes it, the controller rarely fails. It's demise is usually an owner that lets the batteries go. Low voltage kills the power supply, and then the injectors suffer the same fate because you don't have a solid 48 volts on them. I have found no reason to run any of the fancy high voltage FICM's. You have to do whats right for you, but I've looked around, and for the money, because of their rep, the 6.0 can be had for cheap. I recently read of a guy that picked up an 07 with 29,000 miles because the owner didn't drive it for fear that it would blow. His 16,000 was a good investment, be cause even if he does everything to it he will only have about another 5k in the truck, and it will run another 250k miles. If you test drive a 6.0, I suggest you get some type of monitor, (OBD sender and smartphone app, or an Edge.. you are going to want one anyway) and look at the engine parameters while testing. Coolant to oil temp deltas should be below 15 while cruising unloaded. Look at the degas bottle for slime, and residue. If it still has gold coolant in it, you'll likely see a lot of both. Look for a constant 48 volts on the FICM readout. Use what you find as bargaining chips with the seller. Then get it home, and make a plan. You can go the full monty... Bullet Proof Diesel has a top shelf external cooler set up that works. the caveat being that if you hit a deer, you will damage that precious set up in a hurry, at great expense. They offer an upgraded EGR cooler if you have emission inspections, and want to comply with the Fed's. There are EGR deletes if you want to run afoul of the law, but you run the a low risk of being caught one day, and the fines are steep. To make it dead nuts reliable, you have to address the weaknesses, like any other vehicle ever. A complete flush of the cooling system using VC9 and a switch to Rotella Ultra ELC or Delo XLC is a must. If the temperature deltas are wacked out, replace the oil cooler. A factory cooler is less than 300 on the web. Upgrade to the BPD EGR cooler while you are in there. Or delete the EGR with a kit, but understand those can leak and you'll be back in there again, and they violate the law. Head gasket issues can be addressed if the PO has run a tuner. It's pretty obvious if you have gasket issues, the coolant will be puking from the degas bottle after a spirited run, and you'll likely see a lot of white smoke from the tailpipe. The heads must be flat, factory gaskets work just fine, and ARP studs are on every diesel site. You would find premium parts for whatever you were working on, the 6.0 is no different. If the gaskets show zero signs of problems, the studs can actually be snuck in one at a time without pulling the heads at all. The 6.0 can be very reliable if left stock, or with minor tunes to the FICM (50 hp Atlas tune works pretty dang good IMO), and replacement parts are plentiful to keep it running. It can be darn near perfect with some basic stuff, even if it isn't in good shape when you get it. Studs, machine work, gaskets, new oil cooler, BPD EGR, the proper coolant, 03-04 needs the billet 90mm water pump from BPD,( 05 and up with the 100mm, the newer pumps already have a metal impeller in the replacement world),a FICM power supply and some time will yield an engine that will be very reliable, and you'll still have less in it than you would a new truck. I know the post is long and rambles, sorry. Hopefully you can get the high points, and realize that it's not much different than anything else... address the weak points, upgrade where needed, and drive the heck out of it.
 
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