Champ PH820-011514ES1 unused cut & post

[WellOiled]

Since the Motorcraft FL-820S looked a little shabby, I decided to gather up a bunch of competing filters and see how they look.

I bought some Champion Labs PH820 from Rock Auto as wholesale closeouts. They sat on someones shelf for a bit over 2 years so there are some issues. Otherwise, a nifty little filter.

Here goes.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#1 Can Label.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#2 Date Code a bit difficult to photograph. Made Jan 15, 2014. A little over 2 years old. This is not good as you will see later.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#3 Dome end spring.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#4 Dome end view shows spot on media and only 4 vertical ribs. This appears to be an old design design. I would be reluctant to use this filter because of the mold/mildew on the media and the window spacing of the cage. For short cleanup OCIs I think they would be OK.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#5 Dome end close up detailing the mold/mildew a bit better.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#6 Dome end close up of the fiber cap. Shows the integrity or lack of integrity of the media to end cap attach.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#7 Nitrile combo ADBV + Relief Valve. This shot clearly shows the ADBV has to seal against the 8 primary inlet holes. They were just smooth. I do not know if this would cause any cold start issues or not.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#8 Inside of base plate 6 small holes relief valve inlets, 8 main inlet holes. The dome end spring now becomes important to the relief valve setting.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#9 Outside of base plate. I am not really sure the extra plate helps during install or not. It is there for a purpose.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#10 Filter side of the combo valve. The combo valve was still pliable and I believe would seal fine when covered with oil.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#11 Nice and even pleat spacing #1. In my opinion, this is the best part of this filter. Pleat spacing is much more even than the Motorcraft FL820S even on the worst pleats.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#12 Nice and even pleat spacing #2. There is that mold or mildew again. Really I am not certain what it is.

Champ PH820-011514ES1#13 Nice and even pleat spacing #3. I wish Purolator would do this.

I fully intend to checkout the newer vintage eCores. The ones with 8 vertical ribs in the cage would have much narrower window spacing to support the media. I have an AC Delco PF1250 on the Ranger as this is being written. The STP S2 looks good also for a sub $4 filter. I called Champion Labs but someone from Fram answered. Not once but twice. He said these were designed to go manufacturer's recommendations for OCI. Of course he was pushing Fram.

I would be reluctant to use these because of the corruption on the media and the huge window spacing caused by the core design.

Here are the reference links to the used FL820S I have already cut & post.

Motorcraft FL820S cut open Date code: 904121217 #3994569
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3996687/1

This is Motorcraft FL820S Date code: 906241527. #3994586
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3994586

This is an unused Motorcraft FL820S Date code: 909031527
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3997575/Motorcraft_FL-820S_Date_code:_#Post3997575

This Firestone TF4651 looked good.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3994624/Re:_Motorcraft_FL820S_cut_open#Post3994624

 

[901Memphis]

A decent entry level filter if you can get past the ecore phobia

 

[KingCake]

I ordered a few the last time I got some parts in. Not bad for $1.49 or whatever they were.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Inside of base plate 6 small holes relief valve inlets, 8 main inlet holes. The dome end spring now becomes important to the relief valve setting.


I don't think the leaf spring in the dome end has anything to do with the bypass function. Seems bypassing of oil is controlled by the flexing of the combo ADBV rubber inner lip when the delta-p across it reaches a certain level. Oil then goes through those 6 small holes and then inward into the center tube.

 

[Run]

The dark spot on the media is not mold or mildew. Its some kind of dye. I seen it on every unused Ecore.

 

[tig1]

Even pleat spacing, or uneven spacing has nothing to do with the filters ability to filter. Now tears is another thing.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A decent entry level filter if you can get past the ecore phobia


My experience with the TF4651 is why I bought some of these. I wish they had the 8 vertical ribs like the TF4651 has.

Exactly my thoughts on this.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: KingCake
I ordered a few the last time I got some parts in. Not bad for $1.49 or whatever they were.


Mine were $1.41 each plus shipping.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Inside of base plate 6 small holes relief valve inlets, 8 main inlet holes. The dome end spring now becomes important to the relief valve setting.


I don't think the leaf spring in the dome end has anything to do with the bypass function. Seems bypassing of oil is controlled by the flexing of the combo ADBV rubber inner lip when the delta-p across it reaches a certain level. Oil then goes through those 6 small holes and then inward into the center tube.


The spring compresses the element and combo valve onto the base plate. In order for the filter to go into bypass, the delta-p across the filter would equal the pressure the oil exerts x the surface area of the 6 small holes. So, I will have to respectfully disagree with you.

What would happen without the leaf spring? A relief valve that would not close.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: Run
The dark spot on the media is not mold or mildew. Its some kind of dye. I seen it on every unused Ecore.


I think I will dissect this a bit further and put the spot under a little magnification.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Even pleat spacing, or uneven spacing has nothing to do with the filters ability to filter. Now tears is another thing.


+1. A torn MC FL-820S led me to check these out. The MC FL-820s tears where the pleat spacing is wide usually on either side of the splice.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Inside of base plate 6 small holes relief valve inlets, 8 main inlet holes. The dome end spring now becomes important to the relief valve setting.


I don't think the leaf spring in the dome end has anything to do with the bypass function. Seems bypassing of oil is controlled by the flexing of the combo ADBV rubber inner lip when the delta-p across it reaches a certain level. Oil then goes through those 6 small holes and then inward into the center tube.


The spring compresses the element and combo valve onto the base plate. In order for the filter to go into bypass, the delta-p across the filter would equal the pressure the oil exerts x the surface area of the 6 small holes. So, I will have to respectfully disagree with you.

What would happen without the leaf spring? A relief valve that would not close.


The rubber "combo valve" piece covers those 6 small bypassing holes. Those holes are also connected to the larger intake holes in the base, so there is the same pressure at all those holes at the same time. Once oil is past the ADBV flapper, then the force acting on the bottom and top end caps are the same, and cancel each other out.

However, the only thing sealing the delta-p between those 6 bypassing holes and the center tube is the inner lip of the rubber combo valve. When the delta-p across that lip is great enough, then oil leaks past the inner sealing lip and into the center tube - thereby bypassing the media. The leaf spring in the dome end is there to just keep all the parts tight together, it isn't "calibrated" to control the combo valve function.

 

[crazyoildude]

I Don't really like the e core design but GM mentioned the reason they went e core was because the flow of the e core is much better which is probably true.. I would use the e core before i would use anything that tears or restricts oil flow with super small oil holes on the center tube.
Wix is usually the safest bet if you can find them at a good price.

 

[goodtimes]

So the adbv valve bending must happen at the outer edge of the "crest" on the baseplate. Normal adbv function, the outer lip bends up with the big holes, when flow is restricted the inside lip bends up to expose the little holes, as the open center tube has no restriction? I guess they patented it, not sure about it myself as a average person, seems there are better but more expensive ways to do it. Both of the used cars I bought had ecores on them, Firestone I believe. Cars ran very well with them, of course I got them out asap and nothing I put in really made anything run better.

 

[WellOiled]

Y
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Inside of base plate 6 small holes relief valve inlets, 8 main inlet holes. The dome end spring now becomes important to the relief valve setting.


I don't think the leaf spring in the dome end has anything to do with the bypass function. Seems bypassing of oil is controlled by the flexing of the combo ADBV rubber inner lip when the delta-p across it reaches a certain level. Oil then goes through those 6 small holes and then inward into the center tube.


The spring compresses the element and combo valve onto the base plate. In order for the filter to go into bypass, the delta-p across the filter would equal the pressure the oil exerts x the surface area of the 6 small holes. So, I will have to respectfully disagree with you.

What would happen without the leaf spring? A relief valve that would not close.


The rubber "combo valve" piece covers those 6 small bypassing holes. Those holes are also connected to the larger intake holes in the base, so there is the same pressure at all those holes at the same time. Once oil is past the ADBV flapper, then the force acting on the bottom and top end caps are the same, and cancel each other out.

However, the only thing sealing the delta-p between those 6 bypassing holes and the center tube is the inner lip of the rubber combo valve. When the delta-p across that lip is great enough, then oil leaks past the inner sealing lip and into the center tube - thereby bypassing the media. The leaf spring in the dome end is there to just keep all the parts tight together, it isn't "calibrated" to control the combo valve function.


I took a strong look at the combo valve and the load bearing portion would have to be between the 8 large primary inlet holes and the 6 small bypass inlet holes in order to keep the leaf spring out of the picture. It's looking like I have to eat crow.
I don't have a set of calipers but it looks like the small holes are almost completely within the ID of the core.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
So the adbv valve bending must happen at the outer edge of the "crest" on the baseplate. Normal adbv function, the outer lip bends up with the big holes, when flow is restricted the inside lip bends up to expose the little holes, as the open center tube has no restriction? I guess they patented it, not sure about it myself as a average person, seems there are better but more expensive ways to do it. Both of the used cars I bought had ecores on them, Firestone I believe. Cars ran very well with them, of course I got them out asap and nothing I put in really made anything run better.


The Firestone looks good to me. Ranger did not complain or have dry start issues. Firestone charges about $5 for the filter.

In theory the STP S2 should be very close. Maybe less efficient???

 

[dlundblad]

I do like the media.. Reminds me of a quality European cartridge filter. I just can't get passed the plastic cage design.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
I Don't really like the e core design but GM mentioned the reason they went e core was because the flow of the e core is much better which is probably true.. I would use the e core before i would use anything that tears or restricts oil flow with super small oil holes on the center tube.
Wix is usually the safest bet if you can find them at a good price.


It is my contention there are millions of vehicles on the road with quick oil change filters on them. These vehicles are not failing due to engine lubrication issues. If they were, then the state attorney generals would be taking actions against all the business concerns involved. And it would be a big news item. Some of them like high profile cases. This is just not happening. All the major oil filter manufactures make filters for the quick lube shops.

At the end of the day, Wix may be the choice I make. Right now, I am having too much fun looking around.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: WellOiled
I took a strong look at the combo valve and the load bearing portion would have to be between the 8 large primary inlet holes and the 6 small bypass inlet holes in order to keep the leaf spring out of the picture. It's looking like I have to eat crow.
I don't have a set of calipers but it looks like the small holes are almost completely within the ID of the core.

Thanks for the correction.


Yeah, the way some of the combo valves operate isn't very easy to see. Here's a cut-away on how the combo valves look and operate on the NAPA filters that have them. Same basic principle where the delta-p across the rubber combo valve opens up a seal between the outside of the filter to the center core.

In this design, the delta-p opens up the sealing area of the combo valve around the ID of the center tube, and the oil bypasses into the center tube as shown by the blue arrow. The red arrow is oil that would end up going through the media.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
I took a strong look at the combo valve and the load bearing portion would have to be between the 8 large primary inlet holes and the 6 small bypass inlet holes in order to keep the leaf spring out of the picture. It's looking like I have to eat crow.
I don't have a set of calipers but it looks like the small holes are almost completely within the ID of the core.

Thanks for the correction.


Yeah, the way some of the combo valves operate isn't very easy to see. Here's a cut-away on how the combo valves look and operate on the NAPA filters that have them. Same basic principle where the delta-p across the rubber combo valve opens up a seal between the outside of the filter to the center core.

In this design, the delta-p opens up the sealing area of the combo valve around the ID of the center tube, and the oil bypasses into the center tube as shown by the blue arrow. The red arrow is oil that would end up going through the media.




Yes, this pictorial is very easy to understand. What I find interesting is that Wix makes the combo valve but they avoid recommending it. For example the Wix made Pro-Tec 159 uses this valve but the filter selector will never show it. Wix gives the Pro-Tec line a 3000 mile rating. The NAPA Silver and MicroGard appear to be the same filter as the Pro-Tec. I am certain Wix knows things about the combo valve they do not like.

Your explanation of the Champ design is the best I have read.

Thanks