used car purchase/oil change considerations

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Hi all:

Great board. I've learned so much.

Question... I'm looking for a used SUV, preferably a Toyota. Ideally I had hoped to find a private seller/one owner car but the probability of this is dwindling. Therefore, I've focused on what I think is the next best thing - pursuing a sale at a reputable dealership (not car lot). Now, to the question. It seems almost every carfax I look at shows the same pattern of service history. The car is first serviced at the selling dealership for the first year or two and then almost invariably folks start taking their vehicles to places like Grease Monkey and the like. I know a lot of folks have to go these places and can't do oil changes themselves, but does the board feel that the oil and filter quality used by these places could do damage to an engine? I know I would not personally use one of these place for these reasons plus I simply don't trust them to fill to the correct level, not overtighten things, etc. I even "pre-saturate" my oil filters when I do my oil changes. At this point, the bottom line for me is that at least regular maintenance is way better than sporadic or no maintenance. Thanks for any input.
 
I think the only thing to watch for is vehicles specing some expensive trans fluids, that no quickie lube is ever going to use.
My Focus came with red ATF in the trans instead of the $25/quart Ford MTX oil, as the PO did get hosed at the quick lube places... It also needed an engine flush too with less than 25k mile on it. Anyways, I've put in the right stuff and now have put on 50k miles without an issue so I think its ok.

I don't think any toyota SUV was ever picky about engine oil though? Did some RAV4's share the camry 4cyl sludger?
You can avoid some of this by buying one doesn't have enough miles to get the wrong trans fluid in it.
 
If the engine is REASONABLY quiet and gets the expected fuel mileage the engine should be ok. I perform meticulous OC with quality oil and parts on my cars and it doesn't help. E10 and low saps CHEAP OIL kills motors THATS ALL I CAN THINK OF.. never HAD SO MANY ENGINE PROBLEMS IN MY 45 YEARS OF DRIVING!
 
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Originally Posted By: NissanMaxima

Now, to the question. does the board feel that the oil and filter quality used by these places could do damage to an engine?


No. As long as they followed the manufacturers oil interval the engine should be fine. I look for an oil change done at least every 7500 miles. but in the case of newer Toyotas (2013>)the oil change interval was changed from 5000 miles to 10,000.

So if you are looking at a vehicle with 40,000 miles and you can document at least 4-5 oil changes were done...you are probably OK.

If you're looking for a Toyota go on Toyota Nation and ask around about which are best.
 
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Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Did some RAV4's share the camry 4cyl sludger?


The 2006-2008 Rav4s have the low tension piston ring-oil burner issue...don't ask me how I know...
mad.gif


The 2010 and newer Ravs are pretty good.
 
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Originally Posted By: NissanMaxima
...but does the board feel that the oil and filter quality used by these places could do damage to an engine?...


I dont think its the quality of the oil and filter that matters as much as the labor associated with the installation that can do the damage. There are plenty of stories of over filling, under filling, not filling, not changing the filter, putting on the drain plug with an impact wrench, etc.

As long as its changed at reasonable intervals, the oil/filter wont be the problem.
 
The oil and filter used at these quick lube places won't damage the engine, what will damage the engine is if they didn't fill the oil to the correct level, or didn't end up changing the oil.

But 99% of the population uses these quick lubes so I wouldn't worry too much. I'm sure a lot of the oil changes on my car were from quick lubes.
 
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Did some RAV4's share the camry 4cyl sludger?


The 2006-2008 Rav4s have the low tension piston ring-oil burner issue...don't ask me how I know...
mad.gif


The 2010 and newer Ravs are pretty good.


My 2006 "RAV6" had no engine issues in 160kmiles, my wife still has the same engine in her '06 Avalon with many fewer miles (guess who gets driving duty) but also no problems.
However, the AWD system needed an expensive repair just out of warranty. I was told at the Toyota specialty shop that fixed it that the RAV AWD was well known for overstressing its mechanical components, not sure if that applies to other Toyota AWDs.
 
wow.. thanks for all the quick replies folks. This is very reassuring. I seriously considering a used Toyota Hybrid Highlander. It is much roomier than the Rav4 and gets great mpg compared to the regular Highlander.

btw...it is OK to switch to synthetic oil in used car (I would use Mobil 1), even with an unknown history of exactly what oil was previously used, right? Or should I consider some sort of non-synthetic high mileage oil since the vehicles I'm looking at all have at least 90k miles on them.

Thanks again.
 
Originally Posted By: NissanMaxima
wow.. thanks for all the quick replies folks. This is very reassuring. I seriously considering a used Toyota Hybrid Highlander. It is much roomier than the Rav4 and gets great mpg compared to the regular Highlander.

btw...it is OK to switch to synthetic oil in used car (I would use Mobil 1), even with an unknown history of exactly what oil was previously used, right? Or should I consider some sort of non-synthetic high mileage oil since the vehicles I'm looking at all have at least 90k miles on them.

Thanks again.
I would stay away from hybrids. I don't think that will be the final denouement as an energy source for automobiles.
 
Originally Posted By: NissanMaxima
wow.. thanks for all the quick replies folks. This is very reassuring. I seriously considering a used Toyota Hybrid Highlander. It is much roomier than the Rav4 and gets great mpg compared to the regular Highlander.

btw...it is OK to switch to synthetic oil in used car (I would use Mobil 1), even with an unknown history of exactly what oil was previously used, right? Or should I consider some sort of non-synthetic high mileage oil since the vehicles I'm looking at all have at least 90k miles on them.

Thanks again.
There is no issue with using symnthetic in an older car.

My Camry is 16 years old with 205k miles and I recently switched it over to full synthetic.
 
Why do CGI when you can have the real thing
smile.gif


"Synthetic" doesn't typically do anything Good at all for most people who use it, maybe the opposite reading all sort of stories about noise, immediate black oil, odd performance, leaks, etc. I recall when I owned a VW fox VW said NOT TO use synthetic oil in their engines. That may have been a seal issue - buy synthetic is a VERY BROAD appellation. It like going to a high end eatery and asking for a bottle of French wine and expecting to get what you want and need.



High end Di-esters and POE syns are good stuff, most of the stuff you buy at BB stores and palaces is just fake group III poor lubricity garbage.
 
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If you're only looking at toyotas, they come with 2 yrs/ 25k free maintenance at the dealers.

I worked at a tire shop and did a bunch of oil changes. Did TONS of ten-year-old Corollas and Camrys but never saw a Prius in the place. When buying used Toyotas, beware how predictable their ownership patterns can be.

Incidentally an archetypal "overflowing with prudence" pre-owned Toyota seller might prefer trading it in vs the "unsafety" of selling it private party, getting sued later, etc.
 
For the kids we picked up a 2007 Dodge Dakota with 62K miles and a 2002 Dodge Ram with 110K miles both had dirty crank cases. The Ram with the 5.9L V8 used a quart about every 500 miles. After about 10K miles of regular oil changes and adding Archoil AR9100 every change the oil usage seems to have become MUCH less but we are keeping our eyes on that.

I just bought a 2006 Ford Five Hundred car with 110K miles. The engine looks spotless inside by looking through the oil fill hole. It was the car of a Ford car salesman that had owned it since 8500 miles and the Ford shop had changed the oil every 5K miles.

It was finally nice to buy a very clean car with a very clean crankcase. The oil it was 3000 miles old and still light in color and even after running the AR9100 in the old oil it has not darkened much because the engine was so clean.

Even the ATF in the Aisin Warner AWF21 six speed automatic was not too bad for 110K miles but it has been given a Seafoam Trans Tune bucket flush and refilled with the Ford spec Mobil 3309.

The esters in the Archoil AR9100 cleans slowly over time but it has not failed me yet. It is best to buy used cars with clean crankcases however.
smile.gif


I used Lubegard for the first time ( really liked it) in this Ford's transmission and it cleans in part due to the esters in it. Esters in oil seem to clean well.
 
"Question... I'm looking for a used SUV, preferably a Toyota. Ideally I had hoped to find a private seller/one owner car but the probability of this is dwindling"

Great way to buy a used car, meeting the previous owner can tell as much about how the car was likely looked after, as the car can itself.

How have you gone about seeking your car/SUV?

My wife and I have bought our last two vehicles from private sellers. The vehicles have been one owner and about 3 years old.

Learn what your chosen verhicle would typically sell for at a dealership, get an idea what the trade in price might be for an owner trading in. Set 'your' price somewhere in the middle. We want a Win Win situation here.

Advertise on Craig's list etc. State what you are doing, what you are willing to pay, and state strongly NO DEALERS!

We have even printed our request on slips of paper, and posted them under the windshield wiper of a vehicle we might see locally. Nobody seems to take offence at this.
It's worked great for us.

But having said that, we live in an area many people retire to, seems people often retire with two cars, but find they only need one
grin.gif
 
I just switched a 19 year old toyota to synthetic a few thousand miles ago, and runs great with no leaks.
 
Want a good used car - look on CraigsList Los Angeles. Huge market and SoCal is pretty dry and rust free (unless they live near the beach...). Find a good one. Send a deposit via PayPal to hold the car while you fly out.

Look it over, drive it, discuss with previous owner. If you like it, buy it
smile.gif


If you don't like it, go to Star Bux and use your laptop to look for #2. Go look, etc. In one weekend, you will look at your first choice, and if that does not pan out, you will look at up to 10 more ...

You will drive home in a new (used) Toy
laugh.gif


Get home after trip and note anything you need to change, any fluids consumed, etc. Go to reputable shop for inspection. Change belts and hoses, timing belt/chain if need be (?), service tranny, transfer case and rear ends.

Start your maintenance regimen with all that info and you will be good to go for another 100,000 at least
smile.gif


And if you buy a car with over 100K to start with (barely broken in for a good Toy...) try Maxlife 5W-30 blend (red bottle) to keep the seals soft and working as they should.

I hate loosing a seal on the trail
frown.gif
 
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Quick lube oil changes will not kill an engine, assuming it's changed at the appropriate intervals. Valvoline, Pennzoil & Quaker State oil filters are Purolator made, so they're not bad. And you know the oils aren't bad either. My aunt has ran her '04 Solara 2.4L on Valvoline conventional quick lube changes for 10,000-12,000 miles & the engine still runs like a top... don't worry, I got on to her for that. It's fine, because even the cheapest oil & cheapest filters are still pretty good.
 
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