Castrol 0W40 vs Motul X-Clean 5W40 Audi 2.0TFSI

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Weighing utilizing GC 0W40 vs. Motul X-Clean 5W40 in my 2007 A4 2.0T.
Looking for an oil the will end up creating less vapors and less deposits in the intake tract of this direct injection engine.
I feel qualities such as lower NOACK, SAPs and resistance to shearing are relevant.
I recently installed a Audi re-manufactured motor an have been utilizing dealer supplied Castrol Edge OE 5w40. Preparing for my first oil change.
I realize both oils are good oils and carry the same manufacturer approvals.

Thanks!
Stoic B7
 
On tour engine, using Castrol Edge Professional 5W-40, we normally see cold-start misfires at about 70-80k. You can benefit from a cleaning as early as 50k.

My suggestion is to install a high-quality catch can and run the Castrol 0W-40. I don't think the added cost of Motul will net you much improvement.
 
Your* I hate the limited window for editing.

Average cost, depending on dealer labor, is $6-700 for a walnut blast carbon cleaning service.
 
More of a question than a statement...Do catch cans really help? I ask because I just bought a Gen 3 1.8TSI and I've seen a variety of thoughts, some with very clear evidence.

Although, looking at the OP, this looks like a much earlier FSI(?) engine, which I believe is a different beast.
 
I have seen catch cans help the OP's engine. We did 2 or 3 cleanings a week at my dealer and the cars with catch cans (or maybe the cars that got driven the hardest) always had less carbon.
 
I've been using Motul X-Clean 8100 5w40 in my 2013 GLI (gen 3 ea888 2.0T) for almost a year now. In the long run I doubt it will prevent intake valve deposits, but I'm just hoping it will take longer for deposits to accumulate. Based on research I did last year, it seems this is a good oil for that (meets VW502, MB 229.51).

I've heard or seen no evidence that catch cans are effective enough on my engine (ea888.3)to justify their price, but on the older FSI engines they may be.
 
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rooflessVW,

Which catch can system do you consider to be a "quality" catch can system?

Installing a catch can system is something I have considered to reduce oil deposits in the intake tract.

Thanks!
StoicB7
 
I've always had good luck with this one: BFI

The website shows currently unavailable; I would give them a call to see why. BFI is right up the road from me, they're good people.

ECS Tuning has a very high quality kit, I wouldn't hesitate to use this one either.

USP, RAI, and 034 also have kits but I am not sure of the quality as I have never dealt with them or installed their products before.
 
A catch-can will help a little. But at the cost $4-500, the benefit isn't worth the cost as you'll still need a cleaning sooner rather than later.

For what it's worth, I was torn between Motul x-clean 5w40 and Total quartz ineo mc3 5w30. I went with Total as the stats are almost identical to the Motul, but it's significantly cheaper (amazon) and 5w30 provides better fuel economy. Both oils are 502/505.01 approved (mid saps).
 
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Catch cans have shown not to help much on the TFSI platform. Even adding water/meth injection doesn't help that much. Lots of heat does help though.

I've been having pretty decent luck with X-Max on my Golf R (also a TFSI engine). My UOAs on Specific 505.01 weren't so hot, but iron dropped by about 20% between two roughly comparable mileage UOAs on X-Max. I'm about 1k away from finished with another interval of it, but it's worth considering too. The VI is a bit higher than X-Clean, sulfated ash % is a bit higher, viscosity is a bit lower, and pour point is a bit lower. Flashpoint is ever so slightly lower, but still better than Specific.

I had some good UOAs with X-Cess on my old MKV GTI (also an FSI car), but I don't think that's considered a modern formulation anymore.

--Matt
 
I'm actually inclined to recommend that OP go with some of the new GTL-based Pennzoil oils. Their low NOACK values should help keep deposits down. Those first-gen direct-inject motors were notorious for deposits.
 
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