Question about warming up the car in winter
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Originally Posted By: ToadU
If your warming it up so you and thr passengers are warmed that's a personal preference.....if your doing it because you think it helps the car that's fiction. It's harmful to the car.
When its -30 outside, it is definitely personal preference!
If your warming it up so you and thr passengers are warmed that's a personal preference.....if your doing it because you think it helps the car that's fiction. It's harmful to the car.
When its -30 outside, it is definitely personal preference!
When it is below freezing, a warm up helps keep the windows free and clear. I believe a warm up helps keep the oil filter from bypassing.
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
There are boatloads of different stainless steels. Stainless steel doesn't guarantee it doesn't rust.
No, there aren't. There are only 5 basic classifications of Stainless: https://app.aws.org/wj/1998/11/kotecki/
The most popular for auto exhaust systems is 409. Any 400 series stainless (any type of stainless beginning with a "4" such as 403, 405, 409, 410, etc., is easy to identify on the car because they are SLIGHTLY magnetic. 400 series will also RUST, but it will take longer than plain old A36 steel. (A500 pipe is structural equivalent of A36 http://msc.aisc.org/globalassets/modern-steel/steelwise/022012_steelwise_spec.pdf See Table 1 on page 2) 400 series stainless is the least expensive stainless. Think Walmart made in China steak knives.
Mr. Delorean used 304 steel. 304 stainless is COMPLETELY nonmagnetic. It is HIGHLY corrosion resistant and used in chemical plants, food processing, medical and dairy equipment. It will hold a high polish and is used for expensive and long lasting exhaust systems: http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/stainless-vs-aluminized-steel-exhaust-system/ I disagree with this column; I believe 304 stainless exhaust will outlast any car in any location, even if you wanted to store the car under salt water; the exhaust would be the last thing to succomb.
But going back to the OP question; I warm my car up ALWAYS in the winter. My car spends the night in a heated garage. My morning routine includes warming the car fully up to operating temp of 180-185. I have a 180 thermostat and a driver information center. COLD engine oil pressure is 66-73. I like to wait for the oil pressure to drop to less than 60 at idle, letting me know that the OIL is STARTING to warm. This can take place while I'm drinking coffee and shaving. I do not drive a cold engine, I'm not a tree hugger, nor do I give a **** about wasting a quart of gasoline. I do UOA and I KNOW the internal condition of my engine and oil.
Maybe he meant different grades.
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=606&featured=1
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
There are boatloads of different stainless steels. Stainless steel doesn't guarantee it doesn't rust.
No, there aren't. There are only 5 basic classifications of Stainless: https://app.aws.org/wj/1998/11/kotecki/
The most popular for auto exhaust systems is 409. Any 400 series stainless (any type of stainless beginning with a "4" such as 403, 405, 409, 410, etc., is easy to identify on the car because they are SLIGHTLY magnetic. 400 series will also RUST, but it will take longer than plain old A36 steel. (A500 pipe is structural equivalent of A36 http://msc.aisc.org/globalassets/modern-steel/steelwise/022012_steelwise_spec.pdf See Table 1 on page 2) 400 series stainless is the least expensive stainless. Think Walmart made in China steak knives.
Mr. Delorean used 304 steel. 304 stainless is COMPLETELY nonmagnetic. It is HIGHLY corrosion resistant and used in chemical plants, food processing, medical and dairy equipment. It will hold a high polish and is used for expensive and long lasting exhaust systems: http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/stainless-vs-aluminized-steel-exhaust-system/ I disagree with this column; I believe 304 stainless exhaust will outlast any car in any location, even if you wanted to store the car under salt water; the exhaust would be the last thing to succomb.
But going back to the OP question; I warm my car up ALWAYS in the winter. My car spends the night in a heated garage. My morning routine includes warming the car fully up to operating temp of 180-185. I have a 180 thermostat and a driver information center. COLD engine oil pressure is 66-73. I like to wait for the oil pressure to drop to less than 60 at idle, letting me know that the OIL is STARTING to warm. This can take place while I'm drinking coffee and shaving. I do not drive a cold engine, I'm not a tree hugger, nor do I give a **** about wasting a quart of gasoline. I do UOA and I KNOW the internal condition of my engine and oil.
Maybe he meant different grades.
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=606&featured=1
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Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just a couple of days ago the temp was 28 degrees here at 0630. We left the building and drove exactly 2 miles to a gas station. The engine was at full operating temp (205) even with the heat on.
Interesting, nothing I've ever monitored comes close to being at operating temp, in two miles... Last time I checked(approx two weeks ago) took something like eight minutes and roughly half that time was on interstate at 60+ mph to reach full operating temp(my neighborhood is two miles from I-state on ramp)... That's vs 13 minutes idling the day before... My starting temps? 43 idle & 37*F driving...
This morning I jumped in the truck after a 25* night and it not started for two days... Scanner not hooked up, but I know when thermostat opens(205*) as the temp gage drops a couple needle widths...
Off to Hardee's for biscuits, which is just about exactly two miles if I go via interstate, three if I use normal highway(my return route)... Out of neighborhood 3/4 mile to I-state(got lucky made left without waiting at light) and one mile down... Maybe three minutes total to Hardees exit, temp well under normal range on gauge... Idle through drive thru for additional three minutes(surprise, no line) and back out on city street 40 mph for another mile, T-stat still hasn't opened... Up ramp to US13 and about another 3/4 mile the temp gage dropped... Mileage? 4.4 miles and around three minutes idle time...
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just a couple of days ago the temp was 28 degrees here at 0630. We left the building and drove exactly 2 miles to a gas station. The engine was at full operating temp (205) even with the heat on.
Interesting, nothing I've ever monitored comes close to being at operating temp, in two miles... Last time I checked(approx two weeks ago) took something like eight minutes and roughly half that time was on interstate at 60+ mph to reach full operating temp(my neighborhood is two miles from I-state on ramp)... That's vs 13 minutes idling the day before... My starting temps? 43 idle & 37*F driving...
This morning I jumped in the truck after a 25* night and it not started for two days... Scanner not hooked up, but I know when thermostat opens(205*) as the temp gage drops a couple needle widths...
Off to Hardee's for biscuits, which is just about exactly two miles if I go via interstate, three if I use normal highway(my return route)... Out of neighborhood 3/4 mile to I-state(got lucky made left without waiting at light) and one mile down... Maybe three minutes total to Hardees exit, temp well under normal range on gauge... Idle through drive thru for additional three minutes(surprise, no line) and back out on city street 40 mph for another mile, T-stat still hasn't opened... Up ramp to US13 and about another 3/4 mile the temp gage dropped... Mileage? 4.4 miles and around three minutes idle time...
Originally Posted By: NO2
OP, why do you use premium gas? Only the Aurora requires it.
His car is a '99 Olds 88 LSS which had the L67 supercharged 3800 as an option. If he has this engine, premium fuel is recommended. If he has the regular 3800, then or course premium is not needed.
Andrew S.
OP, why do you use premium gas? Only the Aurora requires it.
His car is a '99 Olds 88 LSS which had the L67 supercharged 3800 as an option. If he has this engine, premium fuel is recommended. If he has the regular 3800, then or course premium is not needed.
Andrew S.
Originally Posted By: WellOiled
When it is below freezing, a warm up helps keep the windows free and clear. I believe a warm up helps keep the oil filter from bypassing.
So what? It's not an issue if the filter goes into bypass briefly. That's what it's designed to do. Even driving a few miles in bypass has no detrimental effect on the engine. It's not like there is tons and tons of dirt in a well maintained engine. Sure filtes are important but a few miles on a cold morning in bypass means nothing. Now a filter that's too full of particulate from not being changed in a permant bypass state is very bad for the engine. A filter that goes into bypass during a cold start or hard accerlation is doing what it's designed to do. Some vehicles have full flow filters that omit the bypass valve btw.
When it is below freezing, a warm up helps keep the windows free and clear. I believe a warm up helps keep the oil filter from bypassing.
So what? It's not an issue if the filter goes into bypass briefly. That's what it's designed to do. Even driving a few miles in bypass has no detrimental effect on the engine. It's not like there is tons and tons of dirt in a well maintained engine. Sure filtes are important but a few miles on a cold morning in bypass means nothing. Now a filter that's too full of particulate from not being changed in a permant bypass state is very bad for the engine. A filter that goes into bypass during a cold start or hard accerlation is doing what it's designed to do. Some vehicles have full flow filters that omit the bypass valve btw.
Cars warm up the fastest under load.
I even do it on my vehicles. "Turn the key, and go."
The vehicle that doesn't like that the most is the Chevy. The transmission let's me know it is still cold. And even then.. only when starting to "get on it" a little bit. Then again, I suspect a somewhat sticking Stat on that car, so the example may not be the most accurate.. just stating what it does.
Newer cars? Turn the key and go.. some argue the 30 seconds of warm up, and I am inclined to agree, that can't hurt - if you have the 30 seconds.
I even do it on my vehicles. "Turn the key, and go."
The vehicle that doesn't like that the most is the Chevy. The transmission let's me know it is still cold. And even then.. only when starting to "get on it" a little bit. Then again, I suspect a somewhat sticking Stat on that car, so the example may not be the most accurate.. just stating what it does.
Newer cars? Turn the key and go.. some argue the 30 seconds of warm up, and I am inclined to agree, that can't hurt - if you have the 30 seconds.
As long as you are using the proper weight oil for the temperature conditions start and go. Drive resonably...don't floor it or street race until it warms up......but just start and drive.......the motor won't care. Like I said somtimes I care so I hit the remote start if my car is outside. Usually my garage is nice and toasty. It's heated and ACd so no temp shock.
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I let the tach say when to go. I start it up when I hit 1,000 rpms I go. Less clutch wear and easier on the drive train than slamming an AT into drive when an engine is racing. The engine is usually ready to go in less than 2 minutes, sometimes under a minute where I live in NY. Then I drive easy.
Generally 30 seconds , enough to put on the seatbelt, cell phone on charger, and go...
The wifes car currently has been sitting outside. It generally does take 2 miles before heat starts coming out. I'm guilty of letting this idle a bit, but that's mainly when the kids are going in the car....kids can't wear jacket in the carseat, so I try to get some heat going in, if they happen to be going in
The wifes car currently has been sitting outside. It generally does take 2 miles before heat starts coming out. I'm guilty of letting this idle a bit, but that's mainly when the kids are going in the car....kids can't wear jacket in the carseat, so I try to get some heat going in, if they happen to be going in
30-60 seconds and go. My DD that sits outside typically sits for 2 days. Lately that means 20-35F deg starts. In 1 mile I see the coolant temp moving up quickly. By 2 miles it's at normal operating coolant temp (2,000 rpm at 40 mph). My 5.7L warms up even faster. If anyone's vehicle is taking forever to get up to temp, I'd block off part of the radiator air flow for the winter.
I wouldn't go nuts about it. Warm up the car for 30 second to a minute when you are going to use it and drive slow in the beginning. I wouldn't jack rabbit (ever but..) until the car reaches operating temperature.
Originally Posted By: ToadU
If your warming it up so you and thr passengers are warmed that's a personal preference.....if your doing it because you think it helps the car that's fiction. It's harmful to the car.
I guess my vehicles missed that memo then...all of my vehicles are warmed up before they're driven in the winter time and they don't seem any worse off for doing so...
If your warming it up so you and thr passengers are warmed that's a personal preference.....if your doing it because you think it helps the car that's fiction. It's harmful to the car.
I guess my vehicles missed that memo then...all of my vehicles are warmed up before they're driven in the winter time and they don't seem any worse off for doing so...
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: ToadU
If your warming it up so you and thr passengers are warmed that's a personal preference.....if your doing it because you think it helps the car that's fiction. It's harmful to the car.
I guess my vehicles missed that memo then...all of my vehicles are warmed up before they're driven in the winter time and they don't seem any worse off for doing so...
Truth is that in the end none of this make any difference. People that are in servitude to their cars don't get any more life out of them than people that use their cars as manufacturers intended.
Originally Posted By: ToadU
If your warming it up so you and thr passengers are warmed that's a personal preference.....if your doing it because you think it helps the car that's fiction. It's harmful to the car.
I guess my vehicles missed that memo then...all of my vehicles are warmed up before they're driven in the winter time and they don't seem any worse off for doing so...
Truth is that in the end none of this make any difference. People that are in servitude to their cars don't get any more life out of them than people that use their cars as manufacturers intended.
I still think loading the torque converter is the best method. Keeps the rpm low but raises the load and gets the atf warm quick.
I get so tired of knocking the snow and ice off my suburban, the last time I just let itidle in the drive for a couple hours to melt it off. People get tired of busting butt and want an easy way out.
I get so tired of knocking the snow and ice off my suburban, the last time I just let itidle in the drive for a couple hours to melt it off. People get tired of busting butt and want an easy way out.
Because mine is supercharged.
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