SAAB 9-3 Viggen Oil Pressure

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This is my first post to the forum (I didn't see an introduction board..)

I have a 2000 SAAB 9-3 Viggen with a checkered history that I have owned from 50k to it's current 166k. Its engine has been apart many times for various reasons (new head at 60k due to an over revving incident, new timing chain,cover, oil pump gears and head gasket between 160k and now). During my ownership, there has never been any sludge in this engine, probably due to frequent synthetic oil changes and engine disassemblies.

However, after the timing chain installation, I observed a low oil pressure light during hot idle. I had replaced the oil pressure switch sending unit so it may have merely been a higher set point on the switch. I then installed a permanent VDO mechanical oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it. The pressure at idle was bottoming out at 7psi. I installed a new timing cover (which houses the oil pump) and oil pump. I measured the closest main and furthest rod bearings with plastigauge, and they were within spec.

The pressure at hot idle after a ~50 mile highway trip now starts at 15psi, and drops to 10psi or so after 20 minutes of stop-and-go. Ambient temperatures ranging from 20F to 40F with same results. I use Rotella T6 5w40 in this car.

I feel that this pretty low for protection of this engine. Quick online research tells me that a journal bearing turbo like my TD-04 (which is freshly rebuilt) wants at least 10psi at idle. In the summer, higher ambient temperatures may cause me not to make 10psi at idle.

So now for my question. My car is equipped with a factory oil cooler (oil to air). The oil thermostat for 9-3's fully opens at 120C (248F), and starts opening at 105C (221F). The earlier cars, including classic 900, had an oil thermostat set to 80C (176F). I know that a lot of 9-3's and 9-5's, even freshly rebuilt, tend to have idle oil pressure around 15psi. This is worrisome to many owners, and there are a lot of threads on SAAB forums on this issue. None of the threads end up with a conclusive fix.

I know that some of the 80C thermostats will fit my car. Would it be beneficial to give this a try? I recently ordered a used oil thermostat from an '88 saab 900 SPG and a new gasket. I will report back with results, unless you tell me not to do this!

Also, I'm thinking about testing this nearly 30 year old thermostat in the oven prior to installation to ensure it still works. New ones are not available in my searching.
 
Welcome to BITOG!

It would be beneficial to try an 80C thermostat in your Saab that would have a big effect on the viscosity of RT6, possibly improving oil pressure at idle.
 
Hello fellow Saab owner! If you haven't already, I suggest posting this on the appropriate sub-forum at SaabCentral.com. There is a lot of technical expertise there.
 
Thanks for the welcome! I'm hoping a lower oil temperature will make the car seem less 'fragile.' I'm kind of wary of doing any hard driving or performance modifications with the oil pressure in question.

I just posted this over at SAAB Central as well. We'll see what they have to say.

Good question RambleJam. The pan has been dropped several times. During the 160k timing chain replacement, I removed the oil pickup and the windage tray. It was pretty clean. Had a couple of bits of leftover red permetex anaerobic sealer on the pickup, but no/very little sludge on the screen. I still hit it with brake cleaner and a brush before putting it back on with a new o ring. I don't think I have pictures unfortunately.

Valve cover has also been clean every time I've taken it off.
 
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Very good.

Have you had an oil analysis done?
What's the cold oil pressure?
Are you observing any degradation of pressure over the drain interval (gets lower as more miles are accumulated)?
Are you monitoring coolant/oil temps?
 
Originally Posted By: fast_ed
The pan has been dropped several times. During the 160k timing chain replacement, I removed the oil pickup and the windage tray. It was pretty clean. Had a couple of bits of leftover red permetex anaerobic sealer on the pickup, but no/very little sludge on the screen. I still hit it with brake cleaner and a brush before putting it back on with a new o ring.

When you put it back together did you replace all three o-rings for the pickup and the crossover tube?
 
Cold pressure jumps right up to 80/85 psi which I am pretty sure is where my pressure bypass would kick in. Fresh timing cover=fresh pressure bypass spring and piston.

The car has been on and off the road since 2011 when I got the low oil pressure light. It's finally back together in a way that I can put miles on it. I've put about 1k since I reassembled it and the at-idle pressure right after a highway run has stayed at around 15psi. It does seem to degrade more in traffic than it did right after disassembly, but could just be a difference in traffic situations (longer wait, on a hill, ambient temp, etc).

I'm thinking I should try my first oil analysis soon, though all the debris from engine work may throw it off... I wish I had done one earlier in the car's life for comparison, but I can at least start now.

I'm hesitant to go up to a XXw50 oil as none seem to be recommended at saabcentral...
 
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
When you put it back together did you replace all three o-rings for the pickup and the crossover tube?


Yep, on the pump and the crossover tube. I pulled the pan after the first oil light because I was having second thoughts about whether I had pushed the crossover tube back in enough. It was all fine but I replaced them again anyways as I recall (about 4 years ago) That was also when I checked those two bearing clearances with plastigauge and they were right in the middle of the range.
 
I've been considering adding an oil temp gauge for this experiment, as time and budget allow.

Can't remember if my obdII scan tool has a reading for coolant/oil temp. Also I don't remember ever seeing a stock oil temp sender on the car when disconnecting the harness, so maybe it doesn't have one?
 
Without an analysis, or coolant/oil temp data, we're merely going on supposition and guesswork here.

With that said, a couple of points...

Maintaining 15 PSI would be fine.

People tend to have a knee-jerk reaction to xW-50, but get all befuddled when you throw actual info their way: If your oil temp is up to 115°C (which is entirely plausible, given the turbo, thermostat setting, and catalytic converter location), that 14.2 cSt 5w-40 has fallen all the way down to 10.45 cSt.

I wouldn't have a problem with you running Mobil 1 15w-50. At 115°C, it's @ 13 cSt, which is much closer to where we'd like to be.
 
Having looked at some charts of temperature vs viscosity, I tend to agree with the hot performance of the 15w50. It is probably closer to what the car should be seeing at that oil temp.

Unfortunately, I don't think I would want to run a 15w in the winter unless it was totally necessary. I guess I could do the 15w50 in the summer, and go back to the rotella or M1 0w40 in winter. I'd be happier if my engine was healthy enough to use the same oils as others run in them. But if that's what it takes to run the car for a long time, I can do it.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
I have about 750K in SAABS. and my suggestion is a quarter pound of C4.


It's crossed my mind, for sure!!!
 
I'd go for the M1 15W50. I did a "freezer" test years ago with this oil vs a famous high end 20W50 synth. The differences were astounding. In actuality this 20W50 synth performed worse with the freezer test vs GTX 20W50. Very unscientific test,but fun and interesting nonetheless
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: fast_ed
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
I have about 750K in SAABS. and my suggestion is a quarter pound of C4.


It's crossed my mind, for sure!!!
If I can make a constructive suggestion, which I should have done, is a SAAB specialist on Jefferson Blvd in Warwick called Conntech. The owner, Mike, kept mine going for a long time and he has a bunch of spare parts. He's not a rip off artist, at all.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If I can make a constructive suggestion, which I should have done, is a SAAB specialist on Jefferson Blvd in Warwick called Conntech. The owner, Mike, kept mine going for a long time and he has a bunch of spare parts. He's not a rip off artist, at all.


I recently heard about that place, which is local to me. I will likely get there eventually to check out the used parts.

Luckily, I don't actually depend on this car for transportation. It is more of a hobby, and I enjoy driving it when it works. I don't use professional mechanics anymore unless I have no choice.

Fortunately, I always have the choice of leaving it in the driveway and taking the Saturn or Roadmaster. The SAAB has really made me appreciate simple, naturally aspirated, American cars. Price of parts, simplicity of most things, durability... The Roadmaster and Saturn beat the SAAB in everything but performance. And then only when the turbo system is working properly..
 
Originally Posted By: fast_ed
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If I can make a constructive suggestion, which I should have done, is a SAAB specialist on Jefferson Blvd in Warwick called Conntech. The owner, Mike, kept mine going for a long time and he has a bunch of spare parts. He's not a rip off artist, at all.


I recently heard about that place, which is local to me. I will likely get there eventually to check out the used parts.

Luckily, I don't actually depend on this car for transportation. It is more of a hobby, and I enjoy driving it when it works. I don't use professional mechanics anymore unless I have no choice.

Fortunately, I always have the choice of leaving it in the driveway and taking the Saturn or Roadmaster. The SAAB has really made me appreciate simple, naturally aspirated, American cars. Price of parts, simplicity of most things, durability... The Roadmaster and Saturn beat the SAAB in everything but performance. And then only when the turbo system is working properly..
I don't think I know anyone more honest in the car business than Mike. If he says the motor isn't worth tearing down again he can probably find you a used one.
 
I would not get excited at 15 psi idle... I'd only make sure it had higher pressure at road speeds.... Saab motors don't die easily.

And when boosted, they make a lot of smiles. Drive it and enjoy the ride
smile.gif
 
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