2006 Kia Spectra 2.0 DOHC engine/dying mid drive

[Monie]

I cannot get the timing right. Popular manuals and the Internet show a common diagram which is impossible to follow. They show the two camshafts, lined up parallel, with the timing chain assembled around the sprockets, the timing marks matched up, exactly five chain links between the marks/specially coloured links, and the lobes of No. 4 cylinder pointing directly at each other, dead level and even. It is not physically possible to bolt the camshafts down like that - if I keep the timing marks and chain correct, the two lobes will point down slightly on assembly so they are "bowing" to each other. I thought long and hard, drew scratchy diagrams, and realised they have to be like that - at 90 degrees to each other - to achieve "induction, compression, ignition, exhaust" correctly. I am convinced, if it were possible to assemble it just like the diagram, the engine would not run. Unfortunately, the car still behaves as though the timing is wrong, which seems to be verified by Check-Engine-Code 0016. I am tired of changing every electronic sensor I can think of. Anyone "been there" and know the answer?
The car drives smooth but dies mid drive, it hesitates on acceleration. Originally changed the timing belt because the car died mid drive. Changed tensioner, IAC, O2 sensor, pcv valve. CER showed nothing but was was on, AZone said it may be timing solenoid and/or actuators. I can't afford to take it to a Kia dealer, not enough money for that, any help would be appreciated.

 

[oggb]

Check your oil control valve - probably on the back of the head, one 10mm bolt (I think). They can get plugged. Not sure that'd make the engine die, though.

Double check and be sure the timing for the timing BELT is correct

That's all that comes to mind

 

[Monie]

When no codes were read but the light was still on Azone said it may be the timing solenoid/oil control valve, and/or acutators. I noticed while reading original submission that the original cause was the same after all I have done!WAS and IS dying in mid drive, oil changes were very far apart in this car, gunky oil. Want to add, the timing chain tensioner was busted when I looked under the hood after it died in mid drive to start with and before I did anything else. Will try this and come back with an answer for you and anyone else with this issue. Thanks for your time! much appreciated!

 

[joel95ex]

if timing chain tensioner was broken and its an interference engine (im not sure if it is) you could have bent valve resulting in poor compression

 

[Monie]

It did bend the intake valves and I changed those. It IS an interference engine, sorry, forgot to mention that! Thanks for your input, appreciate your time.

 

[The_Eric]

I can't remember on the Beta engine... Is it possible for you to remove the chain sprockets, then rotate each cam into position and install the sprockets? Most DOHC cams have a spot you can put a wrench on them to turn them.

 

[Monie]

Yes its possible, it means turning the whole camshafts with the sprockets bonded/molded at the ends. I am sure we don't mean taking the sprockets off and swiveling them independently! I have been moving the cams a link or two this way and that, to get the best performance I can.
Thanks for your input as well.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Monie
Yes its possible, it means turning the whole camshafts with the sprockets bonded/molded at the ends. I am sure we don't mean taking the sprockets off and swiveling them independently! I have been moving the cams a link or two this way and that, to get the best performance I can.
Thanks for your input as well.


Yes we...errr... I do.

Rotate the crank a few degrees either way of TDC, then remove the belt and chain. Set the cams to where they need to be, then put the chain on, bring the crank back up to TDC and put the belt back on.

Turning the crank a few degrees either side of TDC will bring all pistons away from the valves. You'll have ample clearance.

 

[Monie]

Will give this a go for sure, right now it is the second car so will have to get to it when I can, I will be coming back here daily to check on the posts and when it is all said and done and hopefully, fixed, I will be posting what the end result is and how we got there for others who will run across this same problem. Thanks for your input and time as well.

 

[Jetronic]

I believe the VVT system has a habit of breaking off a piece, this could result in the advance not dialing back so the timing will be off. But these engines are so rare here, I think I have one car with such an engine between all my customers (hyundai) so could be wrong. Check with Kia/Hyundai dealer for TSBs on this engine regarding the VVT.

 

[Monie]

Thanks for this, had to look up TSB's=Technical Service Bulletins- but I see where you are coming from. The KIA is on the back burner for right now but it will be seen to within the month, I will not leave this post hanging as I would want someone to be able to get the help that I am getting. Thank you for your time as well, much appreciated trust me!

 

[Monie]

Will come back to this, have decided to take it to a shop not far away that deals with KIA's. Thanks for all the input on this and will def come back with an update for anyone who is/has had this problem.

 

[The_Eric]

Please do- I'm curious as to the outcome.

 

[Monie]

This particular shop was going to charge $1200 just to pull the cams out, said it would be a 3-4 hour job, this did not include anything other than the labor, Azone and Oreilly's couldn't give us a clear reading only guesses as to what it could be. The guy at this shop did say that the lobes were not timed right, we already knew that we couldn't get the lobes to go down into position according to the book specs and have suspected this may be the issue but, not sure what other damage it may have done at this time, have to go pick it up with a trailer because it will not start.
Not sure what to do at this time, buy another head and start from scratch or sell it as is and get whatever we can from it, decent wise, otherwise it will have to go on the back burner once again for who knows how long, the gist though sounds like the lobes were NOT timed right, will be back in the next day or two with the read out, hopefully he will give me one after it costing $103.00 just to put it on a machine! more to come.

 

[Monie]

Oh, he also mentioned that the cam chain is lose as all get out and that it shouldn't be, that thing has been making a noise since we got it in 2006 brand new!
Asked a mechanic to try and pinpoint the annoying rattling and they never could figure it out, probably didn't have the time to spare but it had been coming from the chain area, really ticks one off that they don't inspect their auto's before selling them. My son who purchased this car brand new knew nothing to look for as he has no mechanical know how at all.

 

[cptbarkey]

sorry to hear that. frankly its already 10 years old, disposable, and someone will buy it from you for $1000 on craigslist, good luck.