Considering 7.5k intervals

Status
Not open for further replies.
dlundblad

dlundblad

Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
16,269
Location
Indiana
Happy Monday BITOG! Let me share some OCD thoughts with you all..

When the mileage on my oil increases (4k now), my engine becomes more and more quiet. I assure you all this is no placebo affect. My I6 4.0 is notorious for excessive lifter noise, but as the miles rack up on the oil, it becomes as quiet as a mouse even on a cold startup. Right now I am running PHM 10w30 and a PH16.

This makes me want to go from my 5k dino intervals to 7.5k synthetic intervals for a longer amount of quietness. I also can't help but wonder if the lack of lifter noise would be doing the engine some good too?

Should I keep doing what I am doing or give the the synthetic a run? 7.5k seems doable especially since I know my engine is clean and the factory recommended OCI is 6k on any API SL oil. My main consideration is M1 HM 10w30. (A3/B3 and cheap/ easy to find.), but I am not brand partial and am open to anything.

I would plan on doing a UOA and if it looks like carp, I would end up just going back to some sort of moly loaded Pennzoil product, which aside from only being able to run at 5k intervals, I've had nothing but good experiences with.
 
Just curious, why not try running your existing conventional out longer? Most "conventional" oils these days can handle it unless you're doing a lot of crazy off-roading, towing, racing, etc.

There's an awful lot of good conventional API SN oils out there. I don't know much about your motor, but is it known to be hard on oil?
 
I have seen some Jeep 4.0 UOAs on M1 that have shown high iron, not sure if any used HM or not. Mine seems to like MaxLife full synthetic 5W30, although warm weather hot idle oil pressure is a little low, might be getting some 10W30 (& maybe 10W40) mixed in in spring.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Just curious, why not try running your existing conventional out longer? Most "conventional" oils these days can handle it unless you're doing a lot of crazy off-roading, towing, racing, etc.

There's an awful lot of good conventional API SN oils out there. I don't know much about your motor, but is it known to be hard on oil?


That is a great consideration. I would back it with a UOA of course.

The 4.0 is known to run on just about anything, but apparenly will shear down a 5w30 to a 20 weight in anything over 3k. I know it sounds asinine, but a knowledgeable member here with the same engine had this experience as well as a UOA to back it up.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
I have seen some Jeep 4.0 UOAs on M1 that have shown high iron, not sure if any used HM or not. Mine seems to like MaxLife full synthetic 5W30, although warm weather hot idle oil pressure is a little low, might be getting some 10W30 (& maybe 10W40) mixed in in spring.


M1 does have a reputation for causing excessive iron in these engines, but I don't think I've ever seen a UOA done with M1 HM 10w30 before.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Before mine got a serious case of piston slap - it ran quiet on 5w-20 (or a mix of 5w-20 and 5w-30, mostly 5w-20)


Wow. That is way to thin for a 4.0 IMO.

Did you get a UOA done?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My I6 4.0 is notorious for excessive lifter noise, but as the miles rack up on the oil, it becomes as quiet as a mouse even on a cold startup. Right now I am running PHM 10w30 and a PH16.


I'd be trying different viscosity filter combos in an effort to eliminate the lifter noise. As the miles rack up, the oil is either getting thicker or thinner. Lose the Fram orange can. Don't do 7.5k on dino.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: dparm
Just curious, why not try running your existing conventional out longer? Most "conventional" oils these days can handle it unless you're doing a lot of crazy off-roading, towing, racing, etc.

There's an awful lot of good conventional API SN oils out there. I don't know much about your motor, but is it known to be hard on oil?


That is a great consideration. I would back it with a UOA of course.

The 4.0 is known to run on just about anything, but apparenly will shear down a 5w30 to a 20 weight in anything over 3k. I know it sounds asinine, but a knowledgeable member here with the same engine had this experience as well as a UOA to back it up.



But did that shearing cause a problem? I know people are terrified of the concept, but it is expected that oil will degrade over the change interval. Until it gets so thin that it can't provide sufficient protection, I don't think it's a problem.

If it concerns you, try a 5w30 HM oil which will start off a tad thicker.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: dparm
Just curious, why not try running your existing conventional out longer? Most "conventional" oils these days can handle it unless you're doing a lot of crazy off-roading, towing, racing, etc.

There's an awful lot of good conventional API SN oils out there. I don't know much about your motor, but is it known to be hard on oil?


That is a great consideration. I would back it with a UOA of course.

The 4.0 is known to run on just about anything, but apparenly will shear down a 5w30 to a 20 weight in anything over 3k. I know it sounds asinine, but a knowledgeable member here with the same engine had this experience as well as a UOA to back it up.



But did that shearing cause a problem? I know people are terrified of the concept, but it is expected that oil will degrade over the change interval. Until it gets so thin that it can't provide sufficient protection, I don't think it's a problem.

If it concerns you, try a 5w30 HM oil which will start off a tad thicker.


I believe it caused excessive iron wear.

Either way, it is enough to make me want to stick with a 10w30.
 
The marble churner will run best on a 10w30, that topic was beaten to death. A40wt will yield no more wear (in terms of UOA) so if found cheap, go for it. I like an HDEO of any wt, they all seem to do well, SAE30, 5/10/15w30/40 will do just fine at 7.5K, they are made to be in sumps for long drains. If a syn 10w30 is found cheaper, I'd do that. From what I remember, mine made less noise with RT6, I'm going to try the 5 next in a 10w30, unless I go lazy and fill with DELO 15w40 that I have for the bikes.
 
I see no reason to use a 10w30. Modern 5w30s are plenty stout. Using 5w30 also gives you access to an enormous variety of oils (conventional, semi-syn, full-syn, boutique, HD, high-mileage, race, etc). 10w30 is almost dead.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
I see no reason to use a 10w30. Modern 5w30s are plenty stout. Using 5w30 also gives you access to an enormous variety of oils (conventional, semi-syn, full-syn, boutique, HD, high-mileage, race, etc). 10w30 is almost dead.


My OP wasnt asking what weight to run in my Jeep 4.0, but rather or not I should consider synthetic. I appreciate your previous advice, but I am set on running 10w30 in this engine.

Thanks.
 
W2G on keeping the 10w-30. I see you arent considering a change in grade, so that is good, but that is all I would consider changing. Does the OM say it is good to zero degree Fahrenheit? Mine does for my truck. But I am much further South than you are.......


Anyways, I wouldnt change a thing. You seem to have a strategic battle plan going and changing it on a whim is not an ideal move, IMO.



Happy 6000!
 
Hey you could get the PYB 10w30.. With a NOACK of 4.2
smile.gif


No way that wasn't a synthetic oil. I think you are right about the 10w30. I tend to agree with Merk on using a different filter. Wix, or Fram Ultra, napa gold. But I know you know all of that for sure. I've used Fram orange cans for 7k miles before. I'm sure they are up to it. But I like the ones I mentioned due to higher efficiency.
 
I know my 97' doesn't mind any 10w30 but I like the synblend MaxLife red jug or QS "SL DEFY" thanks to auto groan, eh Autozone.
 
"Mobil 1™ High Mileage is designed for high-mileage vehicles that have been using conventional motor oils. It's true that most Mobil 1 vehicles with 75,000 plus miles should be in excellent condition and would not require some of the Mobil 1 High Mileage benefits. However, most cars on the road today do not use synthetic oils, so we developed this oil specifically for these cars that would benefit from switching off conventional oil."

Mobil 1 High Mileage FAQs.

Good choice in the 10w-30 flavor!
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: dparm
I see no reason to use a 10w30. Modern 5w30s are plenty stout. Using 5w30 also gives you access to an enormous variety of oils (conventional, semi-syn, full-syn, boutique, HD, high-mileage, race, etc). 10w30 is almost dead.


My OP wasnt asking what weight to run in my Jeep 4.0, but rather or not I should consider synthetic. I appreciate your previous advice, but I am set on running 10w30 in this engine.

Thanks.


IMO with the solid oil you're using, you could likely go 7.5k miles without issue, unless severe service as mentioned. But I'd get a UOA to be sure and move it up gradually from where you are.

With synthetic, 7500 should be easy...in my'04 with the 4.0 I went as high as 10k with Amsoil...the UOA said the oil could have gone further.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
Oil change interval for 2019 and 2021 Toyotas
2 3 4
Replies
76
Views
5K
Bryanccfshr
P
Fresh Oil = Quiet
3 4 5
Replies
82
Views
4K
TiGeo
P
Question about oil change intervals 2011 Ford fusion hybrid 2.5l 4cyl
Replies
6
Views
960
pbm
C
M1 5W30 EP D1 / Gen 3 Users ?
2
Replies
31
Views
4K
Triple_Se7en
P
2004 wj 4.0 oil question
2
Replies
38
Views
2K
OVERKILL
Back
Top