Tie-rod ball joint grease?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
882
Location
USA
Hi,

The rubber boot for the tie-rod on my 01 acura integra tore. I am going to replace the boot next weekend and need some grease suggestions.

i found these two, what do you think?
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-S...rds=moly+grease
http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV985-Sy...rds=moly+grease

At home i have:
mobil 1 synthetic grease (i used this red goop on my upper control arm ball joint and the rubber boot is all moist)
napa sil-glyde
3m silicone paste

Please let me know what is appropriate in my application. Thanks
 
Last edited:
I like Valvoline synpower and I recommend you stick with lithium complex based greases for compatibility reasons. Mystik JT-6 hi temp, lucas marine, and Omni Green Grease are good choices as well.
 
Sta-Lube SL3110

41KPXLIgj2L._SY300_.jpg
 
Ford Lincoln Mercury Grease. Either from Ford or Valvoline at Autozone.

It's the only grease I know of besides some GM stuff that has polyethylene particles in it to dampen vibration and noise. It also has moly.

BUT--if you got Mobil grease at home already just use that I doubt you'll notice the diff.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Ford Lincoln Mercury Grease. Either from Ford or Valvoline at Autozone.

It's the only grease I know of besides some GM stuff that has polyethylene particles in it to dampen vibration and noise. It also has moly.

BUT--if you got Mobil grease at home already just use that I doubt you'll notice the diff.


I think i will pick up some of the stuff you mentioned. I assume this type of grease is rubber safe?
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/grease-gear-oil/moly-fortified-multi-purpose-grease

I dont like the m1 stuff. It seems to run....i used it in a balljoint and the boot is covered in grease.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Ford Lincoln Mercury Grease. Either from Ford or Valvoline at Autozone.

It's the only grease I know of besides some GM stuff that has polyethylene particles in it to dampen vibration and noise. It also has moly.

BUT--if you got Mobil grease at home already just use that I doubt you'll notice the diff.


I think i will pick up some of the stuff you mentioned. I assume this type of grease is rubber safe?
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/grease-gear-oil/moly-fortified-multi-purpose-grease

I dont like the m1 stuff. It seems to run....i used it in a balljoint and the boot is covered in grease.


Yes the red M1 does separate real bad. Why I quit using it.

The Ford grease is what ford uses in all their ball joints and ties rods. It won't hurt the boot. You can get it in a tube also.

O'reilly and Autozone both carry it.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The best grease for tie rods and ball joints i have used over the years bar none is the Schaeffer 238 #2. From what you have the Mobil 1 would be my second choice

thumbsup2.gif
 
As another posted mentioned, I really like the Valvoline Synpower grease. It seems to stay put very well and with the spec's and the moly content it lubricates very well.

Additionally its extremely versitile. It offers an extended temp range to cover cold winters and hot disc brakes, moly to help in high loads like ball joints... but not so much moly to cause problems in bearings (I don't have it writen anywhere but IIRC valvoline claims 1%). Plus, I've had the same tube in my gun for about two years with nary a drip or leakage. Its kept in the garage 80% of the year but I store inside during winter so I can use it if needed without waiting for the grease to warm up to an easily pumpable temp.

edit: I feel compelled to add... also based on my own understanding, the key ingredient to tube rod lube is refreshing the grease as needed. Basically almost any qualified grease will work perfectly as long as you regrease it as needed.
 
Thanks all.
Got me a tub of the Synpower grease. Can't wait. Ebay has the best prices as well...free ship and no tax
laugh.gif


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grease-Ext-Pres-and-High-Temp-1lb-Gray-VV986-/111759138466?hash=item1a055d1ea2:g:eek:zMAAOSwTapV5Hdt&item=111759138466&vxp=mtr
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman

mobil 1 synthetic grease (i used this red goop on my upper control arm ball joint and the rubber boot is all moist)


The red Mobil 1 grease is the worst garbage i ever used, Its completely useless.
The last application i tried to use it on before i threw it away was on door hinges but not even on that simple application it worked well.
It separates instantly..
 
Originally Posted By: magnus308
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman

mobil 1 synthetic grease (i used this red goop on my upper control arm ball joint and the rubber boot is all moist)


The red Mobil 1 grease is the worst garbage i ever used, Its completely useless.
The last application i tried to use it on before i threw it away was on door hinges but not even on that simple application it worked well.
It separates instantly..


I agree, i dont like it at all

I installed the boot and regreased with valvoline synpower. Feels good, feels like before lol

Thanks for those who suggested the valvoline product. So far happy with it and will use it for many things.
 
Originally Posted By: magnus308
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman

mobil 1 synthetic grease (i used this red goop on my upper control arm ball joint and the rubber boot is all moist)


The red Mobil 1 grease is the worst garbage i ever used, Its completely useless.
The last application i tried to use it on before i threw it away was on door hinges but not even on that simple application it worked well.

It separates instantly..


I have used M1 grease for many years(at least 20) and have found it to lubricate very well. My old 91 Ford Ranger was greased with M1 and in 354K (miles) never had to replace a greased part. The same for the front wheel bearings that was greased with M1. Actually, the better grease does separate a little. Here is an article that explains why grease must separate(bleeding) to lubricate properly.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28761/storing-grease-to-avoid-bleed-separation-
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Ford Lincoln Mercury Grease. Either from Ford or Valvoline at Autozone.

It's the only grease I know of besides some GM stuff that has polyethylene particles in it to dampen vibration and noise. It also has moly.

BUT--if you got Mobil grease at home already just use that I doubt you'll notice the diff.


I think i will pick up some of the stuff you mentioned. I assume this type of grease is rubber safe?
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/grease-gear-oil/moly-fortified-multi-purpose-grease

I dont like the m1 stuff. It seems to run....i used it in a balljoint and the boot is covered in grease.


I bought my first tub of Valvoline Ford/Mercury back in the 1970's as this grease exceeded all manufacture's standards at the time. It's wonderful grease that you can depend on.
 
I use Mystik JT-6 Hi Temp No. 2 red grease on pretty much everything. Although I still have an old can of Valvoline Ford spec wheel bearing grease. But pretty much everything with a zerk fitting gets the Mystik. Maybe once my grease gun runs dry, I will try one of the others listed.

L8R,
Matt
 
Originally Posted By: AnthemBassMan
I use Mystik JT-6 Hi Temp No. 2 red grease on pretty much everything. Although I still have an old can of Valvoline Ford spec wheel bearing grease. But pretty much everything with a zerk fitting gets the Mystik. Maybe once my grease gun runs dry, I will try one of the others listed.

L8R,
Matt


I've been using this for chassis lube too, but I wonder if a moly-fortified grease has any real benefits?
 
Another topic chasing down magic lube.

17 year old vehicle, reusing old tie rod end and just putting a boot on. Which grease makes little difference so long as NLGI 2 and compatible with existing grease. If you want long life get a new tie rod end, not special grease instead.

Granted, maybe it just needs the boot. Emphasis on just.

A little oil separating out of grease is not always a problem, can even be a good thing. The oil allowed it to flow reasonably out of a grease gun and into where it was needed. Some oil is lost and you have a better viscosity for low speed, higher load applications. This little bit of oil can also get into old dried grease to revitalize it and help pump it out to refresh with new grease after a few days wait.

In that case the main legitimate gripe with grease that separates is leaking out of a grease gun and in extreme cases making a mess then being too thick to apply with a gun.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top