2011 Mazda2 1.5l - PP 0W20 5154mi

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This was a before/after a DDMWorks filter install(which uses a K&N cylindrical filter). This was my primary motivation for getting UOAs done, to check filter efficiency and make sure its not too terribly bad.


Good news is it is perfectly fine on the averages, and given it was JUST installed, is brand new, and the before comparison was on a 25k mile OEM Mazda filter... I feel this was a best case scenario(for OE filter) vs worst case scenario(for K&N filter).



One question I have otherwise is the 100C viscosity. Oil used was the same both times(0w20 PP). There was a 1.0 difference in viscosity after very similar mileages.

The only real difference I can think of is that the second run was in colder weather.


My other guess is that while fuel dilution is

The filter used for this UOA was a Purolator PureOne PL14612 which was cut open here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3965689/Purolator_PL14612_-_5154mi_-_C
 
Everything looks good..

In the other topic, you mentioned that you autocrossed it.

No doubt it's a great oil, but I think the additive pack of PP is no good for track or autox. I'd try something different with more zinc/moly, and maybe some boron. Just 2 cents.
 
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Everything looks good..

In the other topic, you mentioned that you autocrossed it.

No doubt it's a great oil, but I think the additive pack of PP is no good for track or autox. I'd try something different with more zinc/moly, and maybe some boron. Just 2 cents.




Yes I do. Both samples have 3 auto-x events on them(roughly 15 runs each).


FWIW I don't think auto-x is very demanding at all... Basically driving hard for 45 sec to a minute, hit redline maybe 2-3 times per run. Then sit idling for 5-10 minutes waiting for the next run.

Track driving I agree I'd be looking for something else to sustain 20+min of hard use.

What other oils would you suggest? I AM looking to try some others next time around, was considering Castrol Edge 0W20(not sure if I'll go for the titanium stuff or not), Mobil1 0W20 AFE(not sure about this one though), Valvoline Synpower 0W20, etc.

Also since this engine is spec'd for up to 10W40 in Europe, I'm really curious about 0W30 German(Belgian?) Castrol, and 0W40 Castrol or Mobil1... though having a car powered by 4 anemic hamsters I'm inclined to believe heavier oils may cost power to a noticeable degree. I won't know until I do it though.



Originally Posted By: wemay

Looks fine! Don't listen to all "the sky is falling" K&N vitriol.


Yeah I've honestly always had a hate for K&N style filters and intakes, but unfortunately on this car it's basically needed for the power gain. I'm hoping to see it trend downwards to 10ppm or less after a few more UOAs.
 
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If I were you, I would try M1 5w30 or M1 5w30 EP. You won't feel a difference by switching to 30 weight.

M1 has more moly, boron and zinc in it, but less calcium which isn't an anti-wear additive.
 
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
One question I have otherwise is the 100C viscosity. Oil used was the same both times(0w20 PP). There was a 1.0 difference in viscosity after very similar mileages.
The only real difference I can think of is that the second run was in colder weather.

Bingo, cold weather kept oil temperature down more often, so you got less high-temperature oxidation happening which thickens oil.

That PP 0w-20 is working so well in that engine, based on very low iron ppm, all looks great, and PP is supposed to lay down very low piston deposits, we think.

I always recommend a Fram Ultra, but your insolubles are so low, it won't make much diff here. I'd use it just in case though. Couldn't hurt, and you know no media tears will happen with Ultra, cheap insurance.
 
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
What other oils would you suggest? I AM looking to try some others next time around, was considering Castrol Edge 0W20(not sure if I'll go for the titanium stuff or not), Mobil1 0W20 AFE(not sure about this one though), Valvoline Synpower 0W20, etc.
I don't think you can improve on your wear ppm's with anything else, probably get the same results. I'd have a tendency to use MGMO 0w-20 in your engine with super-high moly, but, like I say, there is no way things can improve for you. No more room for improvement.

Originally Posted By: flatlander757
Also since this engine is spec'd for up to 10W40 in Europe, I'm really curious about 0W30 German(Belgian?) Castrol, and 0W40 Castrol or Mobil1... though having a car powered by 4 anemic hamsters I'm inclined to believe heavier oils may cost power to a noticeable degree. I won't know until I do it though.

Depends on if you'd be able to notice about 2% power loss, and fuel economy loss too. Higher viscosity (and a non-GF-5 Sequence VID oil there among the Euro oils) means you are guaranteed to have power loss, no question, physics takes over.
 
Originally Posted By: dgunay
If I were you, I would try M1 5w30 or M1 5w30 EP. You won't feel a difference by switching to 30 weight.

M1 has more moly, boron and zinc in it, but less calcium which isn't an anti-wear additive.



Thanks, I was leaning more towards a 0w30 if anything but I may try something out.


Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
One question I have otherwise is the 100C viscosity. Oil used was the same both times(0w20 PP). There was a 1.0 difference in viscosity after very similar mileages.
The only real difference I can think of is that the second run was in colder weather.

Bingo, cold weather kept oil temperature down more often, so you got less high-temperature oxidation happening which thickens oil.

That PP 0w-20 is working so well in that engine, based on very low iron ppm, all looks great, and PP is supposed to lay down very low piston deposits, we think.

I always recommend a Fram Ultra, but your insolubles are so low, it won't make much diff here. I'd use it just in case though. Couldn't hurt, and you know no media tears will happen with Ultra, cheap insurance.



Yeah, I actually switched to a Fram Toughguard TG7317 since hearing of the Purolator shenanigans
thumbsup2.gif
I've also somewhat debated going to an Ultra and changing the filter every other change(so 10k).

I'm not sure I can bring myself to NOT change the filter though
eek.gif



Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
What other oils would you suggest? I AM looking to try some others next time around, was considering Castrol Edge 0W20(not sure if I'll go for the titanium stuff or not), Mobil1 0W20 AFE(not sure about this one though), Valvoline Synpower 0W20, etc.
I don't think you can improve on your wear ppm's with anything else, probably get the same results. I'd have a tendency to use MGMO 0w-20 in your engine with super-high moly, but, like I say, there is no way things can improve for you. No more room for improvement.

Originally Posted By: flatlander757
Also since this engine is spec'd for up to 10W40 in Europe, I'm really curious about 0W30 German(Belgian?) Castrol, and 0W40 Castrol or Mobil1... though having a car powered by 4 anemic hamsters I'm inclined to believe heavier oils may cost power to a noticeable degree. I won't know until I do it though.

Depends on if you'd be able to notice about 2% power loss, and fuel economy loss too. Higher viscosity (and a non-GF-5 Sequence VID oil there among the Euro oils) means you are guaranteed to have power loss, no question, physics takes over.





Probably would... You notice when the spare tire is out of the car... Ha-ha.

But there's only one way to find out right?

I have the urge to get oil temp and pressure gauges now...
 
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