ATP 205 Re-Seal Worked-6.0 LS Engine

[DoubleWasp]

Friend of mine picked up a Yukon XL at an auction that he discovered was leaking oil from the rear cover at an alarming rate. 15 minutes at idle left a 4 foot wide puddle of oil on the ground. You can see the wet kitty litter still on the ground from cleaning up that discharge.

Dropping a bottle of ATP 205 reduced the oil leak to what you see on top of the cardboard box. That was created post-treatment, after a 15 minute drive, then parking and idling for 20 minutes.

We also parked the truck over one spot out in the street and left it idling for 10 minutes. That time, it left an oil spot about the size of a penny. Little enough that it could be previously discharged oil dripping from the chassis.

Long story short, it worked a miracle. If it weren't for the good reviews of what I considered to be a "gotta be bull" product, I never would have tried it.

 

[Gasbuggy]

Hope he gives the next owner a few bottles.

 

[Olas]

Does your friend now what gaskets are for?

 

[demarpaint]

I bet it comes back.

 

[Trav]

I wonder what it did to the rest of the seals and gaskets in the engine.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: Trav
I wonder what it did to the rest of the seals and gaskets in the engine.


Hey it worked well. But I agree, now it's time for quick resale or plan on fixing it right.

I bet one day it'll really start puking...

 

[Trav]

I believe it worked okay. Looking at the description it claims not to over swell the seals.
It might be worth trying in a jam or an old car needing big $$ repair to replace the rear seal.

http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM

 

[AZjeff]

I've been dealing with an RMS drip on an 02 Xterra I bought 12/14. First fill of Valvoline HM 5w-30 + ATP205 slowed it 75%. 2nd fill of Pennzoil HM + ATP205 and the drip has been a bit worse. It helped but nothing dramatic like the OP's case. Next fill might be 0w-40 + ATP.

Don't have the means to drop the tranny myself and it isn't worth having my indie do it so fooling around with magic cures.

DW, is the Yukon a driver or a flipper?

 

[DoubleWasp]

The new rear cover/gasket/RMS are on their way. The ATP is to allow him to drive it until we both have the time to knock out the replacement of the components.

It's actually not that bad on this truck. You can just disconect the driveshaft from the rear axle, unbolt the trans, and back it off from the engine to knock out the whole job.

Oil pan is going to be dropped at the same time and pan gasket is going to be replaced, with the valve cover gaskets soon to follow.

He's going to drive it for now, but might consider selling it after 6 months.

I wouldn't call it a permanent solution yet, and we'll never find out first hand, but it has put what would otherwise be a driveway decoration back on the road for now.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: AZjeff
I've been dealing with an RMS drip on an 02 Xterra I bought 12/14. First fill of Valvoline HM 5w-30 + ATP205 slowed it 75%. 2nd fill of Pennzoil HM + ATP205 and the drip has been a bit worse. It helped but nothing dramatic like the OP's case. Next fill might be 0w-40 + ATP.

Don't have the means to drop the tranny myself and it isn't worth having my indie do it so fooling around with magic cures.

DW, is the Yukon a driver or a flipper?
The "American" way, flip it and don't tell the buyer anything.

 

[rslifkin]

I dumped a bottle of AT205 in the Jeep trans about a year and a half ago when the occasional drip of trans fluid from the bellhousing started to get worse (not sure if it's the pump seal or input shaft seal). After a day or 2 of driving, the leak was gone and a over a year and 20k+ miles later, it hasn't leaked a single drop.

Mine wasn't a big leak or anything, but it seemed to do the job well enough. And definitely saved me a bunch of $$$, as there's no way I could convince myself to pull the trans at this mileage (never been rebuilt) and not rebuild it or swap it for something different while it was out... So now it gets to stay until it wears out, most likely.

 

[KingCake]

puking that much oil i'm willing to bet it has excessive blow by and/or malfunctioning pcv system

or worn main bearing(s)

rear main seals usually fail because of something else being the problem

check it out or else the new seal will pop too

 

[AZjeff]

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: AZjeff

DW, is the Yukon a driver or a flipper?

The "American" way, flip it and don't tell the buyer anything.


Really? Did anyone tell him to do that? This how you roll eh?

 

[DoubleWasp]

PCV was the first thing that came to my mind. When I have the time, we're going to replace the PCV, connect a pressure gauge to the engine, and drive the stink out of it to see what crankcase pressure does.

This is a fairly well-known LS failure, so I won't be surprised if it turns out to be nothing but time and mileage that worked against it.

 

[SteveSRT8]

If it is the fixed orifice type PCV it is very prone to clogging at high mileage. If the driver is enthusiastic then you bet it could blow a seal or two....

 

[DoubleWasp]

I'll find out. If it the fixed orifice, I will deal with that in whatever method works best for the engine.

 

[SteveSRT8]

You can always clean it directly, but we do a simple PM on it with some carb cleaner spray. Just pull the valve cover line off and spray with the engine running. About 1/2 can later you're good for many more miles.

It gets worse as the blowby increases...

 

[DoubleWasp]

Good to know. Thanks.