Any advice on used ECU purchase?

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Alfred_B

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I have a 2007 Audi A6 with a CEL code of P2294.
Quote:
008852 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
P2294 - 009 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00010100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 264019 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.12.27
Time: 19:12:02

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 576 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 136.3 mg/str
Temperature: 79.5°C
Pressure: 23.1 bar
Voltage: 12.65 V
Temperature: 16.5°C


The independent shop that I took it to has traced the problem to the ECU. The new ECU is $1,600 plus tax plus installation (includes the flashing of the ECU).

What are your opinions about getting a used ECU and having that installed?

Where can I get it online besides eBay where they sell them for $130?
 
I have had several ecu repaired at "Bba-reman" and it comes with a lifetime warranty. Just a suggestion they have a website and an eBay store.
 
Originally Posted By: Superflop
I have had several ecu repaired at "Bba-reman" and it comes with a lifetime warranty. Just a suggestion they have a website and an eBay store.
I hear they do good work

One of the few companies that would get a Saab SID display or BMW trip computer screen right

Also saw them on a Wheeler Dealer's episode when they went through a ABS pump on a VW Corrado
 
I haven't had great success with reman electrical components. I've put 4 reman alternators on my Camaro in the past 3 years. There seems to be a high probability for getting something that has low cycle fatigue of its internal connections. If you want to keep the car, get a new ECU.
 
I would get a second opinion. Many times the ECU gets blamed when it is a sensor, wiring, or connector............... those should all be thoroughly checked. ECU are among the most reliable parts in a car - that's why they are big $$$.

If in fact it is the ECU, I would have no hesitation with a JY replacement - be sure it is the EXACT model and has been cleared for reuse. That's probably what you see on ebay.
 
Is that the only code? I occasionally got this code and others all related to low voltage or open circuit with my 2007 Audi A4. Would light the EPC light and go into limp mode. After several restarts it would light the CEL and go out of limp mode. Eventually the CEL would go out. I replaced the 614 relays under the ECU (one is for engine power and the other is for the fuel pump, I replaced both because they are cheap and I wasn't sure which was which) and have not had the problem since. I'm not sure if the A6 is the same, but in the A4 the ECU box is under the hood and is known to leak water. I didn't have a leak and my relays looked/tested OK, but replacing them fixed the problem
 
Originally Posted By: silveravant
Is that the only code? I occasionally got this code and others all related to low voltage or open circuit with my 2007 Audi A4. Would light the EPC light and go into limp mode. After several restarts it would light the CEL and go out of limp mode. Eventually the CEL would go out. I replaced the 614 relays under the ECU (one is for engine power and the other is for the fuel pump, I replaced both because they are cheap and I wasn't sure which was which) and have not had the problem since. I'm not sure if the A6 is the same, but in the A4 the ECU box is under the hood and is known to leak water. I didn't have a leak and my relays looked/tested OK, but replacing them fixed the problem


Those are the exact symptoms I am having.

The other code is vacuum tube related.

Quote:
008304 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (Bank 1)
P2070 - 006 - Stuck Open
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 264019 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.12.27
Time: 19:12:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 768 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 174.4 mg/str
Temperature: 75.0°C
Idle
Absolute Pres.: 563.9 mbar
Speed: 3.0 km/h


Readiness: 0110 0101
 
If the ECU box is like the A4 there is a fastener in the rear corner that requires the drivers side wiper and cowl cover be removed to access. Sometimes, if the mechanic is lazy (or stupid) they just break the corner of the cover to remove. This is a common cause of water leaks.
 
Thanks, that makes sense.

Will try this before I splurge on the ECU. Will need to get the part number for the ECU anyway.
 
Hope it works out for you. It isn't very difficult to open the ECU box. The only potential difficulty is removing the wiper arm. Mine came off with a little wiggling, but I know some people need to use a wiper arm removal tool.
 
Originally Posted By: user52165
I would get a second opinion. Many times the ECU gets blamed when it is a sensor, wiring, or connector............... those should all be thoroughly checked. ECU are among the most reliable parts in a car - that's why they are big $$$.

If in fact it is the ECU, I would have no hesitation with a JY replacement - be sure it is the EXACT model and has been cleared for reuse. That's probably what you see on ebay.


Got charged $250 for the diagnostic ($104 per hour) so I hope they have checked it all. I questioned them and the path of diagnosis is as I would do, and there is evidence of the wipers having been removed to access the ECU.

I will check with BBA reman and see what my options are.
 
Funny he should mention that my brother in law sent in the ecu to his titan which he was sure was failed. They (bba reman) determined there was nothing wrong with it and sent it back to him no charge he was only out shipping.
 
That's probably the biggest value with BBA Reman. They will charge a $35 diagnostic fee plus shipping cost, though.
 
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