Once Bitten Twice Shy Using MOS2 Additives....

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So whats the history of the car?
Are you the original owner?
Are there any mods if yes how long have they been on the car?

By reading S2000 forums there were cars less than 2 years old stock loosing bottom bearings, the solution was to go with larger clearances.
Most engine builders are using the max clearance .002".

If you rebuilt with stock clearances I would seriously rethink that and redo the bearings with more clearance, but that's just me.

With having problems with the bottom end bearings I would give more clearance.
Acl race bearings at .002 clearance is what the builders said I read this morning.
This is just a Google opinion I have no experience with this engine.

I cant see the Moly causing this. Just my opinion.

Shannow is a bearing engineer maybe ask him if he has seen or heard any Moly related failures.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. I started using Lubro Moly MOS2 based on some of the threads on this forum a couple years back.

I am definitely not going to use any more additives on this vehicle, I appreciate all of the replies and opinions. I'll stick with Redline and get my moly fix that way. I can't definitively say the MOS2 caused my issues, but without knowing for sure I won't chance it again.

I am not the original owner of this vehicle. The engine could have been run low on oil in the past, that is a common issue as these motors consume oil and there is a dipstick reading issue that some people don't realize. I want to blame the oil pump but having checked it over upon removal it still measured to spec.

All four bearing mains were damaged, I think 2 and 3 were the worst (thinnest), I sent the motor to my buddy in Tennessee who opened it up for me and gave me the bad news about the damage.

The current block has been refreshed to Honda specs using new Honda bearings and related parts. Recent UOA's seem to show normal wear levels.

Thanks for all of the replies.
 
Originally Posted By: nicholas
I have used Lubro Moly Mos2 anti-friction engine treatment on 10 different engines with nothing but positive results. I have used it on many cars from 25,000-100,000 kms - - -

Just my 2 cents>:)
I've eaten a lot of chicken soup and it has never made me sick.
 
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Since it was built tight again a High capacity oil cooler might help out, that's what I would do anyway.
Hopefully it does not happen again.
Cheers
 
Originally Posted By: Koz1
Since it was built tight again a High capacity oil cooler might help out, that's what I would do anyway.
Hopefully it does not happen again.
Cheers


yeah the bearing clearances came out on the tighter end of the spec. I'm running the factory oil to water cooler, I don't track the car, and I generally drive the car like an old lady when I'm on the street. I put in an oil pressure gauge when the freshened motor was installed.
 
I never used it.... but isn't it thick as mud? Maybe running it in freezing temps caused the damage?
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I never used it.... but isn't it thick as mud? Maybe running it in freezing temps caused the damage?


You know it is very thick and the moly settles at the bottom of the can. That is what made me question the stuff getting stuck in the oil filter, though threads I've read in the past say that it remains in suspension. I question that though. I only run the car in warm temps, so no cold weather issues with it.
 
I'm curious what the directions say. I know Lucas says not to use more than 20% of oil capacity. But no mention of ambient temperature and that stuff is thick as grease. In the case of moly...more is not better.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I'm curious what the directions say. I know Lucas says not to use more than 20% of oil capacity. But no mention of ambient temperature and that stuff is thick as grease. In the case of moly...more is not better.


The Directions are not very lengthy. It recommends 50ml per litre of oil in the crankcase. The entire can is 300 ml, so with a 5 litre capacity it would not be an entire can at 250 ml. I don't see anything about temperature conditions.

You have to shake the can quite a bit to get the deposits out of the bottom of the can, so it settles to the bottom for sure.
 
250 ml is about a quarter of a quart. I can't imagine anything in that small of a dose causing any damage (or benefit)
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
250 ml is about a quarter of a quart. I can't imagine anything in that small of a dose causing any damage (or benefit)


You need more imagination...zddp at 800 ppm in a 5 liter sump equates to about 4 ml... would you do without zddp as in that low a quantity it can't be of benefit or detriment?

Any surface active additive only needs small amounts to work properly.
 
Originally Posted By: JSRT4
Not really trying to address any specific issue, other than looking for the proverbial fountain of youth, I guess.
smile.gif



Did you not find it with the Amsoil?
 
Originally Posted By: Spector
Originally Posted By: JSRT4
Not really trying to address any specific issue, other than looking for the proverbial fountain of youth, I guess.
smile.gif



Did you not find it with the Amsoil?


At the time the Amsoil 5w30 was not using much moly in their old formula , but they have since started using more from what I can tell. So I was trying to boost the moly content of that oil. After the engine failed I did not run Amsoil again, not out of concern about the oil but I just used up my supply at the time and moved on to different oils. Amsoil signature series looks like a great oil though.
 
Originally Posted By: Turk
Amsoil has ~150 ppm of Moly.

Curious... How much more are you looking for?



The Schaeffer 9003D 5w30 I use has 308 ppm.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
they cant/don't believe the oil alone has all that is needed for the engine to function properly.


That's because we grew seeing the Lucas Oil Stabilizer bottle which said in bold letters: "Oil Alone Is Not Enough".
 
Bought some Lubro Moly MOS2 because of post on this site. Years later a 4.3L V6 in the Blazer started making a lot of noise at 225K miles.
smile.gif


It may have had a place 50 years ago but motor oil has improved beyond this old technology.

Since we buy used vehicles we now only add Archoil AR9100 to the crank cases for both gas and diesel engines. I use for the cleaning feature than the friction modifier. The 2002 Dodge Ram with the old 5.9L gas engine has stopped using a quart of oil every 500 miles for some reason and will now go about 2500 miles before needing to add the first quart of motor oil. The engines do look cleaner looking through the oil filter hole. The motor oil in the diesels now do not get black as fast.

In short today's motor oils to not require additives to add to the life of a well serviced motor in my view/experience.
 
There are some people that adds some additive and postpone the oil and filter changes, because they rely so much on them and paid, so to roi ... shove the accelerator, since the engine is so much more protected now.
Than the add helps with the cleaning in an long drain. Some kind of user induced error.
 
Liqui Moly sells all kind of oil in Europe that is preloaded with MoS2, I'd think that it would become pretty obvious pretty fast over there if it tended to cause engines to grenade.

That said, I certainly don't think that anybody really "needs" it, and I have been using it in small quantities recently more or less out of curiousity. Seems like the most common complaint about it is that it turns your oil black, but my oil is always black when I drain it, anyway. Let's see if M1 5W30 ESP (without LM) doesn't look so nasty when I drain it in about 8000 miles (planned fill for my next change).
 
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