2000 Honda Accord J30A1 V6 Valve Train

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
55
Location
Southern AZ
The Y2K Accord recently threw a CEL for EGR insufficient flow.

The lower intake manifold carries EGR gasses from the EGR valve to the upper intake manifold where the exhaust is vented into the two "halves" of the intake and taken in by all 6 cylinders. The hole is probably 7 or 8 mm across and it gets clogged easily. Honda revised their intake manifold design a few years later with the J32 to make it much easier to rectify this EGR issue.

The job involved removing the upper intake and cleaning the port in both the upper intake and the lower intake where it runs down to the EGR valve. Since this car has 201k miles and is due for a valve adjustment, I took this opportunity to do that as well. As expected, the intake valves were all loose and the exhaust valves were all tight.

The inside of the engine was interesting. The front bank, cylinders 4, 5, and 6, was very clean and I was impressed. The rear bank, cylinders 1, 2, and 3, was much more varnished and darker. I suppose the rear bank doesn't get the same cooling as the front bank.

This car was purchased used in 2003-4 and has stayed within the family that bought it. It was the father's daily driver until ~2010 when it was handed down to the daughter. He took very good care of the car (it's on its original trans!!!) and serviced it on time. The daughter worked a paper route with the poor thing and severely neglected the car in all aspects. After the daughter moved out, it was handed down again to the son who owns it today. It has had oil changes mostly at quick lube places with anything from 5w-30 and 10w-30 bargain conventional to high mileage oils and synthetics. Currently, it runs with Pennzoil High Mileage 5w-30 and a Pennzoil HPZ oil filter at 4000 mile intervals. The engine uses seemingly no oil during the OCI and I'm quite impressed. The engine runs like new.

Anyway, the EGR procedure worked, the valves sound like a sewing machine, the engine is smoother at idle and pulls all the way to redline like a champ. The insides were very clean and I'm impressed with the overall condition of the engine. My only regrets with the entire repair and service was that I had just done an oil change a week before the CEL illuminated, and I didn't take enough pictures. I'm confident the HPZ will catch any contaminates that fell into the engine during the procedure, but I would have liked to have had this occur at the end of the previous OCI.
frown.gif


2000%20Accord%20J30A1.jpg



J30A1%20Front%20Valve%20Cover.jpeg


Here is the front bank. I don't have a pic of the rear bank but it was varnish tinged brown enough to look like a 200k mile engine. Not sludged by any means.
I'm new to the forum and these few are my first few ice breaker posts.
smile.gif
 
Thanks for the pictures. In terms of a difference in color between the front bank and the rear bank, it's often the opposite of what you have -- the front bank often runs warmer than the rear just due to the 200 degree air blast from the radiator fans. Though, I guess you can also make the argument that at least the front bank has air flowing around it -- moreso than the rear bank does.

Looks like a fun job. I enjoy this kind of stuff.
 
Looks good, keep doing what you're doing.

As a side note, why is it that almost every valvetrain pic thats posted is almost always a Honda/Acura veh? Theres the occassional Toyota and other manufacturer as well but overwhelmingly its Honda products. Something to prove? Idk.
 
Originally Posted By: stower17
Looks good, keep doing what you're doing.

As a side note, why is it that almost every valvetrain pic thats posted is almost always a Honda/Acura veh? Theres the occassional Toyota and other manufacturer as well but overwhelmingly its Honda products. Something to prove? Idk.


Because they need their valves adjusted so it makes for a good opportunity to snap a pic.
 
Yep, they need adjustments whereas most engines today use hydraulic compensators.

I have pics of my MB OM601 diesel that I'll post in the diesel section. I have those pictures because I had to replace all of those conpensators. They were old and ticked like crazy. Nice and quiet now.
 
True, I just have never thought to take a picture of an engine unless I need a photo as a reference when assembling it back together. To each his own I guess.
 
I knew I was going to be joining the forum, and I had wanted some first post material that was good.
smile.gif
So I posted a few picture threads in a couple different sub forums here.
 
I think you should post about the automatic transmission since you stated its never been rebuilt and is original.

I think a lot of us would love to hear about that since those are rather problematic trannys.
 
Very, VERY nice looking engine.

Just goes to show what regular maintenance coupled with good oils and (presumably) more often longer running can do for a top end.

Honda's from this era are very good cars, as are the Toyotas (their prime competitor, I'd say). The latter probably being a little more finicky with maintenance, but again its possible for those to be clean like this too.
 
I agree that they are very good cars. Their weak spot is their auto transmissions. If you get a manual trans car (4 cylinder only in the 6th gen, but the 03 and up Acura TL did come optional with a 6 speed manual.
laugh.gif
) they are very durable and very reliable.

Now that I'm taking care of all the maintenance, this car is well loved.
smile.gif
It gets a steady diet of Pennzoil High Mileage 5w-30 and that seems to work very well. All of the valve adjustment lock nuts came loose pretty easily, and they were very clean (even in the dirty rear bank). I am debating whether a switch to T6 5w-40 would be a good idea, as a member on here said he had an extremely quiet J series using 0W-40 oil, but this OCI has 4k miles left since I just did it a few weeks ago. That gives me plenty of time to decide if the switch to T6 will happen or not.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: stower17
Looks good, keep doing what you're doing.

As a side note, why is it that almost every valvetrain pic thats posted is almost always a Honda/Acura veh? Theres the occassional Toyota and other manufacturer as well but overwhelmingly its Honda products. Something to prove? Idk.

Because they need their valves adjusted so it makes for a good opportunity to snap a pic.

Really ? I didn't know Honda's valves are needed to be adjusted. I though Honda's valves are hydraulic adjusted and no need to be tempered with.

When to adjust the valves ? Time or mileage or performance degraded ?
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: stower17
Looks good, keep doing what you're doing.

As a side note, why is it that almost every valvetrain pic thats posted is almost always a Honda/Acura veh? Theres the occassional Toyota and other manufacturer as well but overwhelmingly its Honda products. Something to prove? Idk.

Because they need their valves adjusted so it makes for a good opportunity to snap a pic.

Really ? I didn't know Honda's valves are needed to be adjusted. I though Honda's valves are hydraulic adjusted and no need to be tempered with.

When to adjust the valves ? Time or mileage or performance degraded ?


Seriously? You didn't know this? You can see the adjusters in the OP's pics. They are usually serviced based on mileage. It is probably in the owner's manual.
 
Theyre "supposed" to be check at a mileage interval. Ive known several ppl with hondas and kept them till a ripe old age and never had the valves adjusted or checked for that matter. I think honda now says to only check them if there is excessive valve train noise. I would have thought in todays world with efficiency being a huge priority that they would have gone to hydraulic adjusting. Out of spec valve adjustment can cause lowered performance which hurts MPG.

My sisters 2013 2.4 still requires adjustments if needed.
 
For the 6th gen Accord J series, the valve adjustment says "adjust if noisy" from 0 to 100k miles, and then to "check and adjust" at about 100k miles.

EricTheCarGuy says to take that literally. He says if you come across a valve that doesn't need adjusting, leave it alone. So, if you do your 100k adjustment and the valves are all still great, you don't need to do anything.

Now, on this engine at 201k miles, every exhaust valve was tight, and every intake valve was loose (which also concurs with ETCG's information). All in all, I adjusted 24 valves and there was 1 that was very close to being ok but still out of spec. It was an intake that was ever so slightly loose. I wanted perfection and a smooth idle, so I adjusted it. Like I said, the valve train sounds like a sewing machine, and that is exactly what you want.

Hydraulic lifters are nice because they are always at zero lash, but they actually give a performance hit compared to solid lifters. If you take an old Honda engine and give it a valve adjustment and a timing belt replacement, the difference in performance is perceptible.

I do like that Honda calls for a 100k mile interval. The MB OM617 diesel engine from the 70s and 80s calls for an adjustment every 15k miles, and they are usually tight.

Of course using a good synthetic oil and changing on time will prevent wear universally in the engine, so it is possible that two engines side by side might be dead quiet and in spec as well as noisy and out of whack.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Seriously? You didn't know this? You can see the adjusters in the OP's pics. They are usually serviced based on mileage. It is probably in the owner's manual.

I don't see the adjusters in the OP's pics.

I will re-read the Honda OM to see if Honda has any recommendation.

The other cars, LS400 with 380k miles and E430 with 170k miles, never had any engine work done, valve covers were never remove for anything.
Originally Posted By: stower17
They're "supposed" to be check at a mileage interval. Ive known several ppl with Honda and kept them till a ripe old age and never had the valves adjusted or checked for that matter. I think Honda now says to only check them if there is excessive valve train noise. I would have thought in todays world with efficiency being a huge priority that they would have gone to hydraulic adjusting. Out of spec valve adjustment can cause lowered performance which hurts MPG.

My sisters 2013 2.4 still requires adjustments if needed.

My S2000 performs as good as usual, gas mileage is the same or a little better than new.

The engine is noisy at any RPM since new and no excessive valve train noise lately.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Seriously? You didn't know this? You can see the adjusters in the OP's pics. They are usually serviced based on mileage. It is probably in the owner's manual.

I don't see the adjusters in the OP's pics.

I will re-read the Honda OM to see if Honda has any recommendation.

The other cars, LS400 with 380k miles and E430 with 170k miles, never had any engine work done, valve covers were never remove for anything.


Look at the rocker arms. See where they sit on top of the valve stem above the lock/retainer? See that nut? That's the jam nut that is used to lock the lash adjuster in place. You loosen that nut, set your lash, and then tighten the nut to lock it in.

The 1UZ-FE in your LS400 is cam-over-bucket like my BMW and the buckets are likely hydraulic (though I have not confirmed). The Mercedes would likely be cam-over-bucket as well.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Look at the rocker arms. See where they sit on top of the valve stem above the lock/retainer? See that nut? That's the jam nut that is used to lock the lash adjuster in place. You loosen that nut, set your lash, and then tighten the nut to lock it in.

The 1UZ-FE in your LS400 is cam-over-bucket like my BMW and the buckets are likely hydraulic (though I have not confirmed). The Mercedes would likely be cam-over-bucket as well.

I saw it now.

The OM states: Inspect Valve Clearance at 105k miles(no time limit), otherwise adjust only if noisy.

Current mileage after 12 years is 56,xxx miles, I still have a long distance to go before remove the valve cover to inspect anything under it. Whew !
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Look at the rocker arms. See where they sit on top of the valve stem above the lock/retainer? See that nut? That's the jam nut that is used to lock the lash adjuster in place. You loosen that nut, set your lash, and then tighten the nut to lock it in.

The 1UZ-FE in your LS400 is cam-over-bucket like my BMW and the buckets are likely hydraulic (though I have not confirmed). The Mercedes would likely be cam-over-bucket as well.

I saw it now.

The OM states: Inspect Valve Clearance at 105k miles(no time limit), otherwise adjust only if noisy.

Current mileage after 12 years is 56,xxx miles, I still have a long distance to go before remove the valve cover to inspect anything under it. Whew !



At that rate of driving, you will probably have to remove the valve cover to replace a leaky valve cover gasket before you have to adjust the valves.
frown.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top