2005 suburu outback lots of codes

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stenerson

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Howdy folks. Check engine light came on. I hooked up to DTC tool and about 12 codes popped up. Codes are 1518 0851 1151 1153 0137 0138 1154 1155 0157 0158 0143 1152.
Some are related to oxygen sensors, low voltage and others with starter switch circuit, park neutral switch.
Seems strange that all these problems would pop up at once. Any hints appreciated.
 
Is the voltage low? That would cause a lot of bizarre problems like that.
 
Yep ... on a friend's 2005 Hyundai Tucson (November of this year), the laundry list was due to a failing > failed alternator.

Interesting fact: to replace the alternator, you must dis-assemble to the part removal of the passenger side transaxle half shaft.
 
I would try to take it to a parts store that can test the charging system and battery. Around here advance auto has the best tester but I think it varies by region.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to start with a new battery. I bought the vehicle used 3 years ago, I'm sure the battery is much older than that. Plus just noticed very nasty buildup of that green corrosive fuzz on battery terminal.
 
Check the obvious, battery, connections, alternator, etc then the pass side footwell for water, the ecm is in the floor. Remove the connector from the ecm and clean it with electronic cleaner and blow dry with canned air, battery cables removed.
If it is damp in there find the leak.

TSB #15
NHTSA ID #10018409
WATER LEAKING INTO PASSENGER FLOOR BOARD. SUBARU
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Cancel the codes after the new battery is installed to see if they come back. Ed


Will do...It did hesitate a bit before starting. Winter has finally arrived around here.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Cancel the codes after the new battery is installed to see if they come back. Ed


Installing a new battery will clear them...
 
Not sure if you have ever replaced the battery, or reset the ecu in your subaru, but.. Some non turbo subarus (like my 2009 legacy) run poorly for a few days after an ecu reset. I've found the procedure outlined by uncle scotty in the link below minimizes the poor performance. When I say poor performance, my main complaint after an ecu reset is that my legacy will come very close to stalling, and even stall at times when coming to a stop, or when pushing the clutch pedal in.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2209950

I agree that you should try replacing the battery. If the negative cable doesn't tighten down enough, look for a black plastic ring inside the negative cable terminal. If that black plastic spacer ring is in the terminal, take it out and it will tighten down more than before.
 
I would disconnect the battery then locate all the ground points on the vehicle, clean them up, clean up the processor connection and battery terminals. I might even get the battery tested also. Drive it for several days and recheck for codes and post your update.
 
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Start with a new battery, clear / reset the codes, and let the ECU start fresh / RELEARN.
 
Found the problem. I recently replaced the blower motor and it's resistor. While I was down there near the floor board I noticed green connectors (I have no idea what they're for) which were not connected. I connected them. I disconnected them yesterday and voila! The codes left.
 
Those come or go to the ECM, did you also make sure there is no water in the ECM recess. there is a TSB to look for it. I had one last year swimming and it did some damage.
 
Those are the "test mode connectors". When they're connected, that basically send the ecu into some sort of diagnostic/test mode, and the car will do all sorts of weird stuff. That's my highly technical explanation of what those connectors are for
grin.gif
 
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