Hello. Just out of curiosity, can you add a few ounces of Redline water wetter inside a 2016 GTI with G12 coolant from the factory? I drive my car through the canyons pretty hard on the weekends so I'm not sure how the cooling system holds up, but my digital gauge reads any where from 194F-205F. Just a few ounces not the entire bottle...
VW G12 + redline water wetter
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I've added WW to regular green coolant and the DexCool over the years with no ills effects that I could see. Never had G12 though. I was able to gain a 10 deg drop in coolant temp on my hot running GTX in peak summer by running a full bottle of WW and a 80% DI water/20% anti-freeze mix. But a few ounces in a new car that is running at normal operating temps with 50/50 coolant, I wouldn't bother. I've used WW as a makeup in my coolant when I was down a few ounces. I'm down to my last bottle after buying 1 case of it 20 years ago.
If I wanted additional heat transfer in hot and sunny California I'd probably run a 40/60 coolant mix. Maybe you'd see a few degrees. What you don't want to do is give up valuable corrosion protection and lubrication for a miniscule gain in op. temperature. The Redline website might have the information you seek. Or just call them up.
If I wanted additional heat transfer in hot and sunny California I'd probably run a 40/60 coolant mix. Maybe you'd see a few degrees. What you don't want to do is give up valuable corrosion protection and lubrication for a miniscule gain in op. temperature. The Redline website might have the information you seek. Or just call them up.
I don't see any need to add WW to a proper fill of coolant, it may have some purpose in pure water applications, but you are just messing with the delicate chemistry that the manufacture designed if you ask me and G12 doesn't need anything extra.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
How does WW change the operating temperature of the mechanical thermostat ?
I'm really interested....
It doesn't. But it does improve heat transfer and keeps your temp closer to the T-stat set point. On my hottest muscle cars I was 30-40 deg above the 185 deg set point (225-230 in summer heat anytime I came to a stop). The WW brought that down to 210-220 which was a nice margin of error before dumping coolant "over the side." Don't tracked cars often see temps well above T-stat setting? In those cases anything closer to set point would be welcome, whether via an oil cooler or diluted coolant + WW.
Departure from nucleate boiling...haven't discussed that since the power plant days. Nucleate boiling was the point of efficiency optimization on power boilers, reactors, steam generators, etc.
How does WW change the operating temperature of the mechanical thermostat ?
I'm really interested....
It doesn't. But it does improve heat transfer and keeps your temp closer to the T-stat set point. On my hottest muscle cars I was 30-40 deg above the 185 deg set point (225-230 in summer heat anytime I came to a stop). The WW brought that down to 210-220 which was a nice margin of error before dumping coolant "over the side." Don't tracked cars often see temps well above T-stat setting? In those cases anything closer to set point would be welcome, whether via an oil cooler or diluted coolant + WW.
Departure from nucleate boiling...haven't discussed that since the power plant days. Nucleate boiling was the point of efficiency optimization on power boilers, reactors, steam generators, etc.
Cool, another power plant guy.
So in "wetting" the surface, and stopping nucleate boiling, they are actually reducing the transfer of heat into the coolant.
As you well know, nucleate boiling, and the phase change that comes with it maximises heat transfer from metal to boiler water (coolant)
Evidence...same volume of water, lower temperature rise. Unless it massively increases the specific heat of the coolant, which it doesn't offer to.
So in "wetting" the surface, and stopping nucleate boiling, they are actually reducing the transfer of heat into the coolant.
As you well know, nucleate boiling, and the phase change that comes with it maximises heat transfer from metal to boiler water (coolant)
Evidence...same volume of water, lower temperature rise. Unless it massively increases the specific heat of the coolant, which it doesn't offer to.
I used water wetter with my 2011 tdi golf early on. I added recommended dose and coolant became brown and slimy. No major mechanical problems occurred and I think read somewhere the brown slime came from silicates falling out of suspension. I used Lubeguard Kool-it and coolant color and texture has not changed at all.
Isn't it counterproductive to cause additives to fall out of suspension?
I would leave the cooling system alone for the next 10 years.
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It's also good for better water pump lubrication.
Keep in mind, a thermostat isn't fully open until around 15 - 20* above its labeled temperature (which is when it starts to open). So a 195* t-stat isn't fully open until 210 - 215*, which means anything up to 215 - 220* would be normal operating temperature in my mind (once you get past 220*, you're getting into the realm of the cooling system not being big enough to keep up).
Originally Posted By: spiderbypass
I used water wetter with my 2011 tdi golf early on. I added recommended dose and coolant became brown and slimy. No major mechanical problems occurred and I think read somewhere the brown slime came from silicates falling out of suspension. I used Lubeguard Kool-it and coolant color and texture has not changed at all.
I tired it in a SAAB and it turned the Prestone black.
I used water wetter with my 2011 tdi golf early on. I added recommended dose and coolant became brown and slimy. No major mechanical problems occurred and I think read somewhere the brown slime came from silicates falling out of suspension. I used Lubeguard Kool-it and coolant color and texture has not changed at all.
I tired it in a SAAB and it turned the Prestone black.
It is? What's it lubricating?
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
It's also good for better water pump lubrication.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
It's also good for better water pump lubrication.
I can't speak to the technology of the Redline, Amsoil, and other WW's out there. They are surfactants + pump lubricant + anti-corrosion additive. They claim to increase heat transfer regardless of how they exactly do it. You may be right that all they do is keep the coolant cooler while the base metal and friction surfaces get hotter. No way to know that without thermocouples hooked up.
The combustion engine heating environment is probably nowhere near as uniform as a SG, Rx, or power boiler. There may be areas that do see significant loss of the fluid film for transient periods where the WW could help. As I said earlier a few ounces in a 50-50 coolant mix will be pretty marginal. I haven't owned a hot-running car in 19 years and for that one less coolant and WW did lower coolant temps appreciably. I can't speak to what temps the bearing and metal combustion surfaces were seeing. I tried "everything" on that car from upgrading the radiator, re-jetting the rebuilt carb, timing, plugs-wires-coil, fuel, stock cam, upgraded water pump, optimized vacuum, fan/fan clutch/shroud/belts, coolant/WW, etc. My mechanic had no ideas either and he lived and breathed the big block Mopars since he was 16.
The combustion engine heating environment is probably nowhere near as uniform as a SG, Rx, or power boiler. There may be areas that do see significant loss of the fluid film for transient periods where the WW could help. As I said earlier a few ounces in a 50-50 coolant mix will be pretty marginal. I haven't owned a hot-running car in 19 years and for that one less coolant and WW did lower coolant temps appreciably. I can't speak to what temps the bearing and metal combustion surfaces were seeing. I tried "everything" on that car from upgrading the radiator, re-jetting the rebuilt carb, timing, plugs-wires-coil, fuel, stock cam, upgraded water pump, optimized vacuum, fan/fan clutch/shroud/belts, coolant/WW, etc. My mechanic had no ideas either and he lived and breathed the big block Mopars since he was 16.
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
I can't speak to the technology of the Redline, Amsoil, and other WW's out there. They are surfactants + pump lubricants.
What is it lubricating in the pump?
I can't speak to the technology of the Redline, Amsoil, and other WW's out there. They are surfactants + pump lubricants.
What is it lubricating in the pump?
Originally Posted By: kschachn
What is it lubricating in the pump?
Both state that it lubricates the pump seal. I suspect a straight 100% water coolant isn't all that good at lubricating things. The WW's probably have a worthwhile function in those straight water coolants. Here's what they also state which is obvious:
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature.
What is it lubricating in the pump?
Both state that it lubricates the pump seal. I suspect a straight 100% water coolant isn't all that good at lubricating things. The WW's probably have a worthwhile function in those straight water coolants. Here's what they also state which is obvious:
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature.
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: kschachn
What is it lubricating in the pump?
Best that you ask Redline and Amsoil who make the product and make that claim. Both say it lubricates the pump seal. I suspect a straight 100% water coolant isn't all that good at lubricating things. The WW's probably have a worthwhile function in those straight water coolants.
Nah, I really don't care enough to ask them. It was just that both you and aquariuscsm both said "pump" lubricants and I wanted to know what it was in the pump that was being lubricated by the coolant.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
What is it lubricating in the pump?
Best that you ask Redline and Amsoil who make the product and make that claim. Both say it lubricates the pump seal. I suspect a straight 100% water coolant isn't all that good at lubricating things. The WW's probably have a worthwhile function in those straight water coolants.
Nah, I really don't care enough to ask them. It was just that both you and aquariuscsm both said "pump" lubricants and I wanted to know what it was in the pump that was being lubricated by the coolant.
Its the purple so it's the G13.
Originally Posted By: spiderbypass
I used water wetter with my 2011 tdi golf early on. I added recommended dose and coolant became brown and slimy. No major mechanical problems occurred and I think read somewhere the brown slime came from silicates falling out of suspension. I used Lubeguard Kool-it and coolant color and texture has not changed at all.
How long until the coolant turned brown?
I used water wetter with my 2011 tdi golf early on. I added recommended dose and coolant became brown and slimy. No major mechanical problems occurred and I think read somewhere the brown slime came from silicates falling out of suspension. I used Lubeguard Kool-it and coolant color and texture has not changed at all.
How long until the coolant turned brown?
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